Maintenance & Restoration

Karalyn · 05-19-2006, 05:55 PM

I am draining the antifreeze out of my new to me 2000 Casita. I have heard talk of a by pass, a switch, etc. for the water heater. I am not even sure what size tank I have or the model number and don't see that marked anywhere on the water heater (that is covered with insulation of some kind.)
At the moment I am wondering WHY I ever wanted a self contained unit. YIKES! Soooo much to learn!!!!!

There is information in the manual of a anode rod and needing it repaced yearly. Where do I find that?
What do I need to do in prep for turning the water heater on? I have no idea if I have water in there, antifreeze in there or what.
I have drained the antifreeze from the sinks (cold water faucets) and the toilet with no problem. Is there an switch or something to turn on to get water into the hot water heater? I don't see one.
Right now I am wishing I had kept my simple to use Scamp with the porta potty.

Any help appreciated.
Thanks

Steve L. · 05-19-2006, 07:52 PM

I've posted this picture a number of times, but here it is again:

Click image for larger version

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Its from the inside and the valve is in it's bypass position (pointed to the right). When the little lever arm is pointed down, the water will make a 90 degree turn and go down and enter into the bottom of the tank. When it's positioned like shown in the picture, it'll just pass right by the downward branch of the plumbing.

I don't have a picture of the annode rod location. Usually you need a 1-1/16 inch socket and a lonnnnng wrench to break it free. It's on the outside at the bottom. Perhaps someone else will post a picture. You'll need teflon tape or lead free pipe dope when you reinstall. Also, it'll make it easier to remove in the future. If the rod is 50 to 75% still there, you can probably get another season out of it. They're not expensive either way. The store will want to know the brand of water heater. The brand choice is usually either Atwood or Suburban. It should be on the outside, behind the cover somewhere.

Dan Meyer · 05-19-2006, 08:19 PM

Hi Karalynn

If you would like, Dawn and I could meet you and share what we know about Scamps; they can not be all that much different from a Casita. Send me a note - n0kfb@skypoint.com.

-- Dan Meyer

Chuck Jenkins · 05-19-2006, 08:22 PM

Hi Karalyn,

Your model number and make of the unit should be inside the cover which is located on the outside of your trailer. Judging by the size of trailer you own I would guess that you have a 6-gallon size water heater. Also this is the most common sized used among trailers of all makes although there are other size options available. It is highly possible that your trailer may not even be equppied with the water heater bypass valve. If this is the case the most efficient way to drain the heater is to remove the access cover on the outside of the trailer and unscrew the large drain plug located at the bottom of the water heater.(This should be where your anode rod is placed) You also stated you have a manual for the heater, if so, you should be able to locate model number and size capacity information in there. One other thing, if you have an aluminum water heater tank it is highly unlikely that you even have an anode rod. These are mostly used in tanks made from other materials. Hang in there - it'll be worth the effort this season! Ask any more questions if needed.

jrnutpaul · 05-20-2006, 06:11 AM

Hi Karalyn,

When you look at your hot water heater from inside the trailer you will see a pipe going in and a pipe coming out. Obviously water goes in, gets heated and comes out.

Now, if these are the only pipes you have then you may not have a bypass, but if there is a pipe that connects the "in" pipe to the "out" pipe before the water goes into the tank and that pipe has shut off valve on it and you have another shut off valve on the "in" pipe after where the "by pass" pipe connects the "in" to the "out" then you do have one. What these two valves allow you to do is redirect the flow of water. you can stop it from going into the tank and have it just go directly to the "out" line. There should also be a valve to keep water from going into the tank from the "out" side.

In the winter you would stop the flow of water from going into the tank and then drain the tank as explained earlier. When you put antifreeze in the fresh water tank you can turn on both the hot and cold lines and fill them with pink stuff. In the spring yu drain the fresh water tank and fill with clear water, open the lines again and run them until they run clear.

If you do not have a bypass valve you should install one. that way you don't need to fill the tank with pink stuff too. I suppose another option is to drain all water out of the lines and back blow them so there is no water in them that can freeze.

I removed the drain plug from my hot water tank and replaced the anode rod with a "hot shot" rod. This is an electric hot water heater rod. like the little one you can buy to heat water for a cup of coffee, but this one heats the 6 gal. in the tank. you plug it into a 110 plug in your trailer or have it wired to your 110 breaker box. When plugged into shore power your hot water is heated by electricity instead of gas. You can still heat with gas when boondocking.

Hope this didn't confuse you further, and if you ask I will post pictures.

Paul

Karalyn · 05-20-2006, 05:02 PM

Thanks everyone! I tore the trailer apart. Had it set up so nicely, with bed made, side kitchen just as I wanted it, etc,but

took out all the things packed under the side dinette, and found nothing, Gave up and called a not to close friend who has a BIG rig. He came over, tore apart my bed and found it under the bed in that storage area. Yep, I had looked there, but never thought to check out a little door under the bed.
Thankfully that problem is solved. Got the camper antifreeze all drained out now. even found that long pipe thing (annonode) and pulled it out and it is still good.
Got the burners and furnace lit.
Can't get the hot water heater working,.....................
and I broke the drain faucet to the fresh water tank. Those are my next projects.
Now I need to take off the drain thing for the fresh water tank and go get a new one somewhere, and figure out how to put a new one on without it leaking.after I repair it.
I think the "fun" is just beginning. Hope I don;t have to hollar help to often!
Steve, your picture and info helped, as I then knew what I was looking for, but I just could not find that set up anywhere. It is under my bed

Thanks again everyone