Water pressure regulater noise

[MCDenny]

I got one of these, really just because it sounded useful and didn't cost much.



After a couple of weeks of use it started making a hammering sound when water flowed through. Sounded a lot like the 12v pump running. It took it out.

Do many of you use these gadgets? Anybody had problems with too much pressure at a campground?

Thanks.

Denny
www.wanderingourway.wordpress.com

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by MCDenny

Anybody had problems with too much pressure at a campground?

It only takes once to find out. In ten years of owning my Scamp and hundreds of nights camping, I've never hooked up to campground water without using the pressure reducer. I've also never had a plumbing blow out. I've purchased two pressure reducers in that time.

Don't let this happen to you: http://www.campgroundreviews.com/invboar...ndpost&p=24117

Wait for the page to fully load. It will take you right to a direct link.

[Pam Garlow]

Originally Posted by MCDenny

After a couple of weeks of use it started making a hammering sound when water flowed through. Sounded a lot like the 12v pump running. It took it out.

Do many of you use these gadgets? Anybody had problems with too much pressure at a campground?

Thanks.

Denny

Most peopel that I know have been attaching it between their camper and their water supply hose. I wonder if the noise would be less bothersome if it was hooked in at the point of connection to the water source (and then the hose would then be attached directly to the camper).

[Thomas G.]

If it was initially quiet, it may have some small debris in it now. Maybe you can back flush it.

[Donna D.]

The pressure reducer should be hooked up to the hose bib. You want to reduce the pressure before it gets to your hose.

[MCDenny]

Well duh!

I never thought to put it on the other end of the hose. I'll try back flushing too.

Thanks all.

[MCDenny]

Another update. All the camp ground spigots have had anti siphon valve so that meant the pressure reducer would not fit on so I haven't been using it.

Maybe related but maybe not: the hose connecting the pex plumbing to the Thedford cassette toilet burst the other day. (The soft rubber hose that comes as part of the toilet.) Fortunately we were sitting at the picnic table and noticed the water running out right away and shut off the flow. Also fortunately the failure was right at the end of the hose so I could cut off an inch and reattach it.

I had a Y adapter I bought for camping but never used in the junk box. I could connect the Y to the camp faucet and the pressure reducer to one outlet arm of the Y. Works fine and the flow through the kitchen faucet is noticeably slower so the pressure clearly is reduced somewhat.

Unfortunately the toilet had its own flow (not pressure) reducer so the toilet got a gentle flush instead or spraying everywhere. I must have thrown away the flow restrictor along with the inch of burst tubing ( it is just a disk with a little hole in it). I found a ball valve made for 1/2" per and plumbed that into the water supply to the toilet. Now I can adjust the flow to 'just right'. I removed the handle and adjust the flow with a wrench, takes less space and the flow setting won't get changed inadvertently.

I have to say most of my 'problems' have been opportunities to make things better.

[MCDenny]

Originally Posted by MCDenny

Another update. All the camp ground spigots have had anti siphon valve so that meant the pressure reducer would not fit on so I haven't been using it.

Maybe related but maybe not: the hose connecting the pex plumbing to the Thedford cassette toilet burst the other day. (The soft rubber hose that comes as part of the toilet.) Fortunately we were sitting at the picnic table and noticed the water running out right away and shut off the flow. Also fortunately the failure was right at the end of the hose so I could cut off an inch and reattach it.

I had a Y adapter I bought for camping but never used in the junk box. I could connect the Y to the camp faucet and the pressure reducer to one outlet arm of the Y. Works fine and the flow through the kitchen faucet is noticeably slower so the pressure clearly is reduced somewhat.

Unfortunately the toilet had its own flow (not pressure) reducer so the toilet got a gentle flush instead or spraying everywhere. I must have thrown away the flow restrictor along with the inch of burst tubing ( it is just a disk with a little hole in it). I found a ball valve made for 1/2" per and plumbed that into the water supply to the toilet. Now I can adjust the flow to 'just right'. I removed the handle and adjust the flow with a wrench, takes less space and the flow setting won't get changed inadvertently.

I have to say most of my 'problems' have been opportunities to make things better.

BTW, the hammering noise was why I started this thread. Hooking it where Donna and Pam suggested worked like a charm. You can hear it standing by the faucet but it is totally silent from inside the trailer.

[Dan Meyer]

In my opinion, these are not needed. When I start my water heater, the expanding water in the tank rapidly pushes the pressure up to 150 psi and the water heater valve vents. Having said that, I have a pressure regulator and use it if campground water pressure is over 70 or 80 PSI.

-- Dan Meyer

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by MCDenny

Do many of you use these gadgets? Anybody had problems with too much pressure at a campground?

I once connected my white water hose without one because the one I had been using for years wouldn't work. The next morning I got out of bed and put my feet on cold squishy wet carpet.

The high pressure was slow leaking back through the water pump! The pump and tank are under the "dinette seat" that makes up the foot of the bed. I had to undo the bedding and pile all the cushions on the other side while I cleaned and dried the mess. Never went without one since.

Originally Posted by MCDenny

All the camp ground spigots have had anti siphon valve so that meant the pressure reducer would not fit on so I haven't been using it.

I have anti siphon valves on all of the hose bibbs at home (new building code) and the pressure reducer does fit on mine when I set up the Fiber Stream in the back yard.

What I have noticed with this combination is when I first open a faucet the flow will gradually decrease to a trickle and then build back up to normal pressure. Whaddup wid dat? It doesn't happen when pumping water out of the fresh water tank with the white hose disconnected from the "city water" fitting. I haven't noticed this initial loss of pressure on hose bibbs without the anti siphon valves...

[cpaharley2008]

What is an anti siphon valve?

[MCDenny]

Gadget on the end of the faucet that prevents water from flowing backwards into the house, campground water supply, etc.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by MCDenny

Gadget on the end of the faucet that prevents water from flowing backwards into the house, campground water supply, etc.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

The pressure reducer should be hooked up to the hose bib. You want to reduce the pressure before it gets to your hose.

I used to attach mine at the inlet to the filter, then used the little flex hose which came with the filter to connect to the shore faucet.
When I replaced the shorewater connection on the trailer, I installed one with a built-in regulator similar to the one pictured below.
When buying an inline regulator,be sure to buy the brass one,not the plastic.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by MCDenny

Gadget on the end of the faucet that prevents water from flowing backwards into the house, campground water supply, etc.

These are usually redundant since RVs ar made with a check valve at the inlet.

[GMike A]

Back in the old days when you could mix killer chems for bugs or lawns we always had one of these on our well output as our set up was a simple container with a siphon and air pickup dispenser. I will put this on my "to buy" list for must have items to avoid campground contamination. Thanks for bringing it up.