Water Tanks - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-31-2007, 06:11 PM   #1
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Can anyone tell me where I can get a fresh and black water tank for a 1978 17 ft Boler. The previous owner apparently left water in the entire trailer and froze all the lines and both tanks are split. I have repaired the lines but the tanks are not repairable. Thanking you all in advance, I remain, Yours in Bolering. Jim
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:43 PM   #2
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I don't know where you can get a Boler tank but George's Custom Plastic in Washington can make you a tank for a good price. They did a great job on my custom tank and the price was very good.
http://www.geocustomplastic.com/index.htm
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Old 09-01-2007, 08:32 AM   #3
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Various sizes of holding tanks are available thru RV parts suppliers. I don't have any brand names for you. Try "rotational molded polyethylene holding tanks". Did you look at RV Wholesalers?
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Old 09-01-2007, 08:55 AM   #4
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There's a few sources in Helpful-Links:
Water Tanks - Fresh and Grey Water

There's some info for a Boler, but I THINK that's for a 13 footer
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Old 09-01-2007, 10:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
There's a few sources in Helpful-Links:
Water Tanks - Fresh and Grey Water

There's some info for a Boler, but I THINK that's for a 13 footer
Hey Donna. Thanks for the reply, Yea those tanks are for a 13 ft. The fresh water tank for a 17 ft is 4" deep at one end and 8" deep on the drain end. It is also shaped like a "T" looking at it from the end. It sits on two steel bars. Your help is appreciated and we will keep looking. Yours in Bolering. Jim
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:18 AM   #6
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Jim, which B1700 layout do you have: the rear-gaucho (RG; bathroom across from door) or the side-gaucho (SG; bathroom near back)? They have different tank configurations, due to the bathroom location, although the tanks may be the same (and just in different locations).

I would also check the depths. In my B1700RGH, the tank supports are angle irons run across the bottom of the 4" deep frame rails and the tank fills the space from support to floor, so the upper part of the tank is 4" deep (and about 4' long across the trailer and 2' wide front-to-back). The lower section fits between the 2" angle iron supports, so it is the same length across the trailer, as the upper but about 4" narrower, leaving 2" wide wings sitting on top of each support.

The lower part hangs a couple of inches below the frame on the shallow end (for a minimum depth of 6") and a couple of inches deeper than that at the outlet end (for a maximum depth of about 8" at the pump intake and drain of the fresh tank, or the drain of the grey tank).

I would also consider repair even of a significantly split tank, although of course these ones might be too bad, and if a reasonably priced replacement can be found that would be better. See the topic Leaking Grey Water Tank on Boler for relevant discussion, with photos of my tank and repair.
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:42 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info Brian. I have the same trailer as yours B1700RGH and the fresh water tank has already been repaired once but apparently as soon as water was put in by the PO, the split opened again. so it wasn't repaired properly or is to old and big to repair again. in either case, I would profer to put new ones in if possible because I want this trailer to last and want all work done the best it can be. Yours in Bolering. Jim
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Old 09-01-2007, 01:16 PM   #8
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Hey Brian. Hold your nose and pray for mine, I am going to Crappy Tire to see about a repair kit. I expect to get the trailer home next week after they weld up the breaks in the frame. then I will try to repair the tanks.
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Old 09-02-2007, 11:54 PM   #9
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Jim:

I side with Brian on trying to get it repaired, but to tell you the truth. I tried doing a repair myself with one of those patching kits...still leaked. I even tried Brian's patching technique...I had no luck. I had leaks around the drain on my gray water tank (it had been smashed in a collision I believe).

Anyway, to end the dribbly leak, I took the tank out (took all of a few minutes), and went to a rotomold shop....A company that makes all those big plastic tanks. The tanks on my Boler are made of polyethelyne I believe.....similar to the stuff found on the bottom of Skis - P-TEX, if you are familiar with it.

The company took the tank, and in one day re-welded it. I payed $90 to get thing fixed. It hasn't leaked since. What ticked me off was when I paid for the repair, sitting on a pegboard was a do-it-yourself poly welding kit that comes with a very special electric welding iron and a spool of poly...all for $60 bucks.

If yours is significant, I would go the "welding" to seal the cracks and then perhaps reinforce with exterior with either epoxy resin and maybe some bracing.

The welding route is the way to go.

Kevin.
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Old 09-03-2007, 11:01 AM   #10
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The welding idea sounds good for cracks in which the edges of the plastic still line up nicely; in that case, I suspect it would be better than any patch. Mine had curled back with time, so there was no way to pull them into good alignment for welding.

I was leery of pulling the tank out, because of the fittings going into it. The one from the kitchen sink goes into the top, through the floor, and the sink end of this plumbing shattered when it removed it for repair (it was already cracked and leaking). If removing a tank, I would want to be prepared to fix fittings, but I think that would be the best way to get a complete repair.
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