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-   -   Bathroom floor (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/bathroom-floor-25461.html)

Chris Z 05-01-2006 09:54 AM

Since I am no lightweight, I feel the floor sag when I am in the bathroom (front bath 16' Scamp), and the toilet seems to be higher than standard. Wife also was suggesting that if we had a fake floor that the shower water would run thru, it would be easier to dry off.
I KNOW I've seen pictures of somebody putting slats of wood down on the floor that I think would solve all 3 problems. I guess Teak or something would be most water resistant but haven't seen any of that around. Do boat places sell that stuff? How about this new board for outside decks that is made with some plastic? Any ideas or pictures?
Thanks

Rob S. 05-01-2006 02:18 PM

Try these for readymade:

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.as...14027505&RN=182

http://www.impressionsindecor.com/teaktbm.html

http://www.vivaterra.com/pls/enetrixp/&#33...187.492840.page

or if you are interested in making your own custom fit I would suggest you use a wood called ipe (ee-pay). It is a very hard wood used for decking and is grown in sustainable forests in Brazil. You can probably get it local through a lumber supplier or you can order it online. www.lumberliquidators.com sells it by the foot. http://lumberliquidators.com/shoppin...product_id=293

Frederick L. Simson 05-01-2006 03:55 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

I KNOW I've seen pictures of somebody putting slats of wood down on the floor that I think would solve all 3 problems.
Benita did that for her Fiber Stream's shower.

Attachment 2644

I think she found something that was modular... but I don't remember where. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/st...lt/confuse.gif

Per Walthinsen 05-02-2006 11:01 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Chris:

I faced the same problem: floor seemed too flexible, poor gelcoating, spider cracks. What to do.......

I put down a layer of fiberglass mat and resin to strengthen the floor, pretty much over the area you see that is slightly different in color. Sanding down the surface was a HORRIBLE job: I had to make like a pretzel to get it done and I hope never to have to do that again.. The idea was to paint the surface (Interlux Brightside, good stuff) so that recoating would be quick and easy.

It worked: the floor is much stronger. The grate I had from before, made out of teak, with the cross-slats contoured on a drum sander to fit the floor. The advantage of teak is that once it is made, water can't hurt it. The disadvantage is that teak dulls planer blades quickly. Should really be worked with carbide tools.

Chris Z 05-17-2006 09:14 AM

I'm in the process of making a floor similar to Benita's. Found some cheap cedar that I hope will hold up. I have a question for Scamp owners: (maybe others)
If I leave the floor drain plug out, is that a problem? Seems like there is a water trap in the line to prevent smells and since the pump is needed to drain, that the grey water wouldn't back up there unless it is completely full. I really doubt that I will fill this tank in one night or so from just the sink and I always empty the tank soon.
Is the only reason I need one is to keep grey water out of shower when the tank is completely full?
I can always pick up my new floor and put the plug in if I have to but would rather strike this one off my list.


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