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-   -   Scared to drill! (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/scared-to-drill-38364.html)

Adam S. 06-11-2009 11:05 AM

So it turns out that to install a battery in my new-to-us Casita, I'll have to install and vent a battery box. This means I need to drill a vent hole in the outside of the trailer and a drain hole through the floor.

I'm nervous! My plan is to simply get a 3" (or whatever size matches the vent) paddle bit and drill through the wall after blading out the wall-carpet. Will it be as simple as this? I've never drilled through fiberglass so I'm not sure what to expect.

Also, how far away is daylight when drilling down through the floor? The casita has a fiberglass frame underneath, too, and I assume a wooden subfloor above that, and then the carpet. Does that sound about right?

Donna D. 06-11-2009 11:26 AM

Would a vented battery box work? Then you only need to drill through the outside, rather than the floor. Remember, it only hurts the first time!

Vented Battery Box Large White

Adam S. 06-11-2009 01:53 PM

Quote:

Would a vented battery box work? Then you only need to drill through the outside, rather than the floor. Remember, it only hurts the first time!

Vented Battery Box Large White
That is actually the very battery box from the very supplier I was looking at. I assume that will fit a group 27 battery. My understanding is that even with a battery box, a drain is needed in case of leakage. Is that not so?

Donna D. 06-11-2009 01:57 PM

Gosh, hadn't thought about leakage. I have a Marine battery box on the tongue of my Scamp and a plain ole Deep Cycle battery in it... no drain hole in the box either. Haven't had a problem of any kind in the past three years.

So :conf I'm thinking no.... once you poke a hole in the box, it's no longer "sealed."

Anyone else care to chime in ????

pjanits 06-11-2009 02:28 PM

Battery box I'm assuming is plastic like the outside ones. My outside battery leaked nasty acid but it all stayed in the plastic box, no drain needed. Not sure How Casita does it, but to answer your drilling question I just drilled a 1 inch hole for tv cables and such thru the bottom of my cabinet. I used a 1" hole saw, it went thru like Butter. My guess is a 3" hole would be the same.

If you're gonna drill have a Manhatten first. I takes the fear out of it.

Ed Harris 06-11-2009 02:41 PM

I am thinking the 2 holes are to create air flow through the box?
With just one hole there would be no venting taking place.

I would also suggest a hole saw for fiberglass instead of the paddle bit.
Just don't breathe the dust and know it gets easier after the first hole.

curtis c 06-11-2009 03:10 PM

just relocate the battery box to the tongue. thats what I'm planning on doing. and one vent is plenty. you don't need a fresh air vent. its just venting excess hydrogen and gasses. as long as its not sealed your fine. you only need inflow if you have several batteries like in a home solar setup where you have massive amounts of charging during the day. or you could get a sealed battery and forget all of the above :) also don't vented battery boxes have vents? so wouldn't you want a sealed battery box and then add a vent. if the box itself is vented you will still get gasses inside the trailer from those vents. nevermind i looked at the link. i thought you were talking about a standard vented battery box.

peterh 06-11-2009 03:23 PM

Quote:

. . . My plan is to simply get a 3" (or whatever size matches the vent) paddle bit and drill through the wall after blading out the wall-carpet . . .
First, look at the other suggestions here about putting the battery box on the tongue; if you still want to install your battery inside, I'd suggest drilling a small, 1/8" pilot hole in the fiberglass wall first to check your hole's proposed location, then use a hole saw, not a paddle-bit to drill through the fiberglass. The hole saw is less likely to shred the of fiberglass at the edge of the hole.

Adam S. 06-11-2009 03:45 PM

Quote:

First, look at the other suggestions here about putting the battery box on the tongue; if you still want to install your battery inside, I'd suggest drilling a small, 1/8" pilot hole in the fiberglass wall first to check your hole's proposed location, then use a hole saw, not a paddle-bit to drill through the fiberglass. The hole saw is less likely to shred the of fiberglass at the edge of the hole.
I do want the battery on the tongue! That would be ideal -- no need to worry about drilling through the fiberglass, plus all that weight would be upfront. I'll do a search for more posts, but I am wondering how to mount the battery box to the tongue. I think this would also mean I would go down to one propane tank...not sure though.

Frederick L. Simson 06-11-2009 04:56 PM

Quote:

I do want the battery on the tongue! That would be ideal -- no need to worry about drilling through the fiberglass, plus all that weight would be upfront. I'll do a search for more posts, but I am wondering how to mount the battery box to the tongue.
Link to your photo of your Casita.
It looks to me that a battery box should fit between the Propane Tanks and the Tongue Jack if you made a shelf for it. If not, is there room to shift the Propane Tanks back toward the body of the trailer a couple of inches to squeeze in the Battery Box? If room is tight, would a group 24 battery fit better than a group 27?


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