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Ngrimm 07-23-2011 02:00 PM

Advice repairing caved in Scamp 13 roof
 
Hello. Just bought a 73 Scamp 13 with the whole roof sitting inside caused by too much snow. I have done some fiberglass work over the years but nothing quite this extensive. The roof is somewhat intact and but mostly it broke along the top edge of the windows. I pulled it three miles to a friends property and will hall it home on a trailer today. I am really excited about getting started on this after seeing what you have done to restore yours. I am weighing the options for repairing the roof first and I don't think the floor is too bad since the fiberglass walls don't seem to have sagged much if at all. Would it be feasible to remove the entire upper half of the body above the metal band so I can flip it upside down to work from the inside having gravity on my side? Another idea I had was bending conduit to support the top and try to work from the bottom. Any of you fiberglass guys have ideas? Junking it is not an option :) Thank you. Norm

Raz 07-23-2011 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ngrimm (Post 261108)
Hello. Just bought a 73 Scamp 13 with the whole roof sitting inside caused by too much snow. I have done some fiberglass work over the years but nothing quite this extensive. The roof is somewhat intact and but mostly it broke along the top edge of the windows. I pulled it three miles to a friends property and will hall it home on a trailer today. I am really excited about getting started on this after seeing what you have done to restore yours. I am weighing the options for repairing the roof first and I don't think the floor is too bad since the fiberglass walls don't seem to have sagged much if at all. Would it be feasible to remove the entire upper half of the body above the metal band so I can flip it upside down to work from the inside having gravity on my side? Another idea I had was bending conduit to support the top and try to work from the bottom. Any of you fiberglass guys have ideas? Junking it is not an option :) Thank you. Norm

Welcome. If possible a few pictures would be useful. Lots of knowledgeable folks here and i am sure seeing what you are up against would bring lots of good ideas. Raz

Francesca Knowles 07-24-2011 01:05 PM

Yes!
I second Raz's request for pictures!
This will be a fascinating project to follow...

Best of luck to you, Norm :thumb

Francesca

Ed Harris 07-24-2011 03:17 PM

There was a trailer on here that used Conduit on the outside to create sort of a "Roll Cage" looking contraption that both protected the trailer and helped hold the roof up.
If I am not mistaken it was also painted outside to look like a little shed or house including flower boxes under the windows.

I will try to find it.

Pictures are a must before commenting directly on something like this for obvious reasons I think?

What I want to know is why you bought this with the roof caved in and are only asking about it now?

Sounds like an adventure!

Ed

Ed Harris 07-24-2011 03:21 PM

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/a...8&d=1224176724

Ed Harris 07-24-2011 03:22 PM

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/a...1&d=1140276811

These 2 sort of give you the idea?

The problem sounds like you will need to get the roof back up first then worry about supporting it.

Ngrimm 07-24-2011 11:31 PM

Pics added
 
2 Attachment(s)
OK, you asked for it :D Like a lot of things it looks worse than it really is. Like I mentioned, the roof is in one piece although it is somewhat folded inside out. I'm starting to think it may be easier to cut the roof in two so I can lift the front and rear separately. All I have done is drilled out the rivets that fastened the cupboard above the sink to the roof so I could remove the cupboard. I figured I should leave the window frames intact until the roof is reattached. I planned to do most of the fiberglass work from the inside but I haven't done it overhead before so I don't know what that will be like. I am open to suggestions as to how to hold the seams together while I fiberglass them. Thank you. Norm

Francesca Knowles 07-25-2011 12:07 AM

Hi, Norm

Allow me to be the first to say... :eek:
That has got to be the CRACKED-EST egg in Christendom.
I presume you've named it Humpty Dumpty...

Calling All the King's Horses, and All the King's Men!

Best of luck to you...

Francesca

Raz 07-25-2011 05:24 AM

WOW. And I thought I had a project. My first thought was to see if Scamp would sell you an upper shell assuming the molds haven't changed. Repairing the original and maintaining the shape will be quite the challenge. Raz

Donna D. 07-25-2011 05:43 AM

This is a prime example of how wrong people can be when they say "Don't worry about the snow load on the roof." :omy

I think I'd put the roof back on in small sections. Easier to handle, more like a puzzle and lighter in weight so the engineering to hold the piece in place would be simplier. Easy for me to say, I've never done it.

This will be a great thread to follow.

Best of luck Norm, wishing you MUCH success :yep

Alf S. 07-25-2011 05:45 AM

Hi: Ngrimm... That's not bad... but pretty grim. I've heard of Grimms Fairy Tales before!!! You could say you've got your work cut out for you.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie :wave

CindyL 07-25-2011 06:37 AM

Wow! I know nothing about this, but Ed's frame suggestion and research looks like a solution here.

I will enjoy following your attempts. Maybe looking at the thread of the guy who is making his camper longer would be helpful. He cut it in half, added fiberglass to make it 42 " longer, and is in the process of putting it back together. He is past the fiberglass and into the systems.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...oot-44623.html


Good luck!

CindyL

Eddie Longest 07-25-2011 07:05 AM

Norm
I contacted Scamp several years ago and they said they would sell a half shell but the problem is getting it home. BTY where is Medford? If you go with a half shell then you could then install new windows. My concern was if the molds were the same size.
Now option two. You can hold the pieces together with pop rivets and heavy plastic strips or metal strips with a release agent attached to the opposite side you want to glass first. Once your first glass sets up you can drill out the rivets and remove the strapping and re-glass over the rivet holes and start with your structual glassing. They do make a resin gel for overhead and vertical work.
Good luck
Eddie

Bruce Thomas 07-25-2011 07:22 AM

if you have all the pieces and can postion them one at a time and glue in place, it'll be fixable i think.....i'd lay the glass inside once its shaped and do a lighter finish , fill etc to the outer .
that half shell sounds like a good idea too.


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