Fiberglass RV

Fiberglass RV (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/)
-   Modifications, Alterations and Updates (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/)
-   -   Cabinet doors stay shut now (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/cabinet-doors-stay-shut-now-58881.html)

ericw 06-08-2013 07:40 PM

Cabinet doors stay shut now
 
4 Attachment(s)
I have had an occasional problem where a cabinet or closet doors will be open after some travel and some of the contents now strewn over the trailer. I hope I fixed it this afternoon. This hardware was from Hafele, a German company. I have part numbers if anyone is interested. As usual the idea was born on this website so thank you to everyone once again. I know you like pictures, so here you go.

Normally it is like this and it is just a pull/push knob when we are camping.
Attachment 60247
When you want it locked for travel you push the knob in and it locks in this position.
Attachment 60248

Push it again and it is unlocked. Here is a closeup.
Attachment 60250
Here is a closeup with it in the locked position (but with a door open so you can see it).
Attachment 60249

chse 06-08-2013 08:08 PM

Very nice! I have problems keeping the large cabinet shut and this might be a solution. Do you always have to press the button in to close the door or is there another holdback mechanism?
My theory was that the plastic trim/profile around the FG in a scamp prevents the rollers to keep the doors shut, did anyone ever try to trim away the trim (hah!) were the rollers should engage?

Pam Garlow 06-08-2013 08:12 PM

Love those knobs!! And its super simple to see if they're locked for travel.

SharonM 06-08-2013 08:16 PM

Eric, yes I'd very much like to know where you bought those knobs and the part numbers. I really need something similar.

Sharon

ericw 06-08-2013 08:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by chse (Post 394110)
Very nice! I have problems keeping the large cabinet shut and this might be a solution. Do you always have to press the button in to close the door or is there another holdback mechanism?
My theory was that the plastic trim/profile around the FG in a scamp prevents the rollers to keep the doors shut, did anyone ever try to trim away the trim (hah!) were the rollers should engage?


I did this on the large cabinet in addition to the smaller ones for the same reasons. The locking mechanism I showed is in addition to the regular roller. That allows everything to work like I am used to when it is in the unlocked state. So when we camp for a couple days in one spot, the knobs stay in the unlocked state and we just use the rollers to keep them shut. But when we travel we press them in to the locked state and they don't open.

Here is a picture that shows the roller (red box) and the knob in the locked state.
Attachment 60270

I did actually try removing the plastic trim (for other reasons) and I also adjusted the roller to different positions. The trim didn't make much difference. It helps when you get the roller in the right spot, but rollers are fundamentally limited and will always open with enough of a "bump". That is why we went to a system that had a positive lock.

Let me know if my explanation wasn't clear and I will take more pictures.

chse 06-08-2013 08:35 PM

I see now, thank you - great solution! What are they called and whats their part#? I am in Germany next month I'll try to find them.

Roy in TO 06-08-2013 09:25 PM

Yes please, post the part #'s.
I can see using that or something similar on the sliders in the trillium.

No need to buy in Germany, Hafele is also in Candada and the USA.
Häfele - INDEX COUNTRY SELECTOR

David B. 06-08-2013 10:20 PM

We've had very good luck using Philip-it latches.
Phlip-It RV Cabinet Latches

Jared J 06-08-2013 11:06 PM

Also interested in a part number, the other solutions I've seen just look hack to me.

Otters 06-08-2013 11:35 PM

Nice soloution. Is there a part on the cabinet side that the latch slides into? If so did you have to add any support to the cabinet where the slide latch meets the cabinet?

ericw 06-09-2013 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Otters (Post 394160)
Nice soloution. Is there a part on the cabinet side that the latch slides into? If so did you have to add any support to the cabinet where the slide latch meets the cabinet?

On the cabinet side the latch just slides out and goes behind the trim/fiberglass of the cabinet. There is space to add reinforcement to the cabinet if you want to, but it didn't seem necessary. The latch against the fiberglass/trim seemed strong enough to me. I was only trying to keep them from popping open from bumps/rattles/shakes. I wasn't trying to lock up anything trying to get out :u.

ericw 06-09-2013 05:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roy in TO (Post 394143)
Yes please, post the part #'s.
I can see using that or something similar on the sliders in the trillium.

No need to buy in Germany, Hafele is also in Candada and the USA.
Häfele - INDEX COUNTRY SELECTOR

Correct. I actually ordered them from a local hardware store (no shipping costs). They didn't have them in stock, but could order them and were the cheapest option I could find. This link will show you the dealers near you in the USA by zip code.

Häfele - I'm a Consumer and I'd like to purchase Häfele products

ericw 06-09-2013 06:01 AM

Here are the part numbers I used:
211.63.700 Locking mechanism white
211.60.990 Shim
229.01.677 plastic knob
229.03.608 plastic rosette (the other part you see from the front that is not the knob)

Here is the catalog with pictures, dimensions, options, part numbers, etc.... Follow the link and then go to page 409. Häfele Blätterkatalog

Note there are brass versions and other colors available as well. Technically, it was not made to work with cabinets as thin as Scamps, but it worked fine as long as you used the shim and carefully aligned everything.

Installation notes:
1. You do have to drill the 1" hole in the door and a couple of small holes for the screws.
2. The location of where to put the hole matters. You want the hole close enough to the cabinet that the latch is solidly behind the cabinet when locked. However, it must be far enough away that the door opens and closes. You can't have the locking mechanism right up against the cabinet when closed because the locking mechanism has thickness and as the door swings in an arc open the locking mechanism will hit the cabinet.
3. As a matter of aesthetics, I wanted the previous hole to disappear when I drilled the new 1" hole.
4. I also wanted all the doors to look like the knob is in the same spot even though the distance the door and the cabinet overlap is different in my trailer.

More thoughts available if you wish, but those are the major ones.

Larry,C 06-14-2015 06:23 PM

All of the parts listed are available at Beetlefreak.com and available for immediate shipment.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:56 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.