Fiberglass RV

Fiberglass RV (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/)
-   Modifications, Alterations and Updates (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/)
-   -   Replacing Door Lock (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/replacing-door-lock-66578.html)

Connie Estep 09-26-2014 10:42 PM

Replacing Door Lock
 
My door lock died on my 1980 Boler right after I bought it in 2004. A locksmith sold me a new one that I was able to install with no problem (and I am not handy at repairs). The 1995 Scamp I just bought came with keys that look like luggage keys and the lock is obviously worn out. Locking & unlocking takes a lot of jiggling and holding the key just partway in. I checked the Scamp website parts list and didn't see locks listed. Have other people just gone to locksmiths also for replacement parts? Didn't try that yet as I took the Scamp directly to the shop for maintenance. Thought I would ask the Forum experts first.
Connie

Donna D. 09-27-2014 05:25 AM

You must have missed it. Both parts of the door lockset on the second page of the Hardware tab on the Scamp site. Hardware $32 for both (plus S&H)

Jon in AZ 09-27-2014 09:03 AM

Replacing Door Lock
 
My Scamp lock also died not long after we bought it. It happened 24 hours before we were planning to leave on our maiden voyage, so ordering from Scamp was not an option (and their shipping tends to be high). If it's only the lock that has failed, you should be able to find a replacement at a local RV or hardware store for under $20. You replace the whole exterior handle/lock/shaft piece as a unit.

Unscrew the handle from the outside, pull it out, and take it to show them what you need. The square shaft on the new one will have to be cut off a bit with a hack saw (designed for thicker doors than Scamp). I got mine at a small, local RV shop that had an exact replacement In stock, and they even cut off the shaft for free.

Good luck!

Jon in AZ 09-27-2014 09:14 AM

Replacing Door Lock
 
Connie, just noticed your trailer is a few years old. Once you take out the screws on the outside of the handle, it should pull right out. If it doesn't come out easily, the shaft may be stuck in the inside latch due to corrosion. To free it, look at the inside latch and you will be able to see the end of the square shaft. Squirt some WD-40 around it, let it sit a bit, and use a small hammer and punch (or a large nail - blunt the tip a bit) to tap on the end of the shaft from the inside to loosen it.

Connie Estep 09-27-2014 01:33 PM

Replacing door lock
 
You must have missed it. Both parts of the door lockset on the second page of the Hardware tab on the Scamp site. Hardware $32 for both (plus S&H)
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe

Donna--I saw those but assumed it did not include the lock inside as it said handles and was so cheap. I paid $109 ten years ago when I replaced that lock! Ay yi yi! You guys are terrific. Thanks so much

Jon in AZ 09-27-2014 02:33 PM

You probably don't need the inside part. The lock, which is part of the handle, is what usually goes bad. Unlike the old Bolers, Scamp uses a simple lever set-up (same as many garage doors and pick-up shells). Not as sturdy, but easy to fix.

I took mine to a locksmith first. He said he could replace just the lock cylinder, but it was a special order, and would be more expensive than replacing the whole handle. A lever-type garage door handle was $13 at Ace. I think I paid about $16 for the handle (with lock & keys) at the RV shop. The latter was identical to the original.

Connie Estep 09-27-2014 10:16 PM

door lock
 
Just want to make sure it is a Scamp Lock I'm dealing with. The key is 1-3/4" long, with a narrow black plastic grip (3/8" wide, 7/8" long) rectangular except at the ring hole end which is cut about 40 degree angle and rounded on the tip. There is no logo or markings on the key except for angled, incised lines on both sides of the grip to give a little traction for the fingers.

Jon in AZ 09-28-2014 07:52 AM

Replacing Door Lock
 
That doesn't sound Ike a factory key. But the whole point is that a number of different aftermarket products will work with the factory latch. So your unusual key may only indicate that the lock cylinder or the whole exterior door handle was replaced with a non-original part at some point. Could you post pictures of the exterior door handle and the latch part on the inside of the door? If the inside latch part is still original (very likely) you can replace just the outside handle/lock and save some $$. If the inside latch part has been changed, then you'll need to order the whole shebang from Scamp.

Connie Estep 09-28-2014 09:37 AM

John--I will do that but probably won't have my Scamp back until Oct 8. Dropped it at an RV service place for repacking bearings, checking brakes, propane drop test, etc. and they are stacked with work. By the way my new (2011) Pilot did great getting it across the Cascade Mountains (Snoqualmie Pass).

Jon in AZ 09-28-2014 07:32 PM

Glad to hear your Pilot did the job. Busy today, but I'll take pix of the parts I was talking about tomorrow.

Jon in AZ 09-29-2014 06:30 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Connie, hopefully a few pics will make it all clear. Hard to visualize when you don't have your trailer nearby to look at.

This is the outside door handle. It contains the lock cylinder, which is what usually goes bad. The lock cylinder can be replaced separately, but (at least in my experience) it's easier to replace the whole handle. I found the one you see, which is identical to the factory part, at a small local RV store for about $16. A lever-type garage door handle from a hardware store will also work, but it won't look like the original.
Attachment 76991

Remove the two screws and pull it straight out. This is what you have (this is my old Scamp part). You can see the square shaft sticking out. That is what turns the latch on the inside. (That is also what can become stuck on older trailers and need to be coaxed loose with WD-40 and a hammer & punch.)
Attachment 76992

This is what I meant by the "inside latch part." You can see the end of the square shaft toward the bottom. It had to be cut off flush with the surface of the latch box. This part does not usually fail, so you probably don't need this part, unless it appears to be badly corroded or feels really sloppy inside.
Attachment 76993

If you do order the set from Scamp, you will get both pieces, with the lock cylinder and keys included. I've heard it does not come with the little hole and pin to lock it from inside, so you'd have to drill your own hole and re-use your old pin. With shipping it will likely run around $50.

Hope that helps!

Donna D. 09-29-2014 07:18 PM

Years ago, I replaced the outside locking handle on my Scamp when the wind caught the door and slammed it shut on my daughter as she was on her way inside. The lock spun in the handle and locked her in. Fortunately I was outside with the key. If both of us had been inside, I would have had to throw the key to someone through the top egress vent to unlock the door for us.

Anyway... I replaced it with a garage door handle, other than needing to take a hack saw to the long square part that goes into the inside piece, it works perfectly. Besides, I like the "T" shape of the handle. Makes my trailer unique. Like me! :loltu And it was cheap... less than $10.

FTTRV 09-29-2014 09:29 PM

A friend used a bungie cord to hold a Parkliner door shut. It kept flying open while driving. I had a Scamp that did the same thing. I adjusted the striker plate to fix it.
Chuck

Connie Estep 09-29-2014 10:38 PM

Very helpful responses. Should get the Scamp back in about a week and will help to have the pictures for comparison ... and $10 is always better than $50! Thanks much! Connie


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:49 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.