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-   -   Secure Cabinet Latch Solutions? (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/secure-cabinet-latch-solutions-76128.html)

Gilda 08-12-2016 10:49 AM

Secure Cabinet Latch Solutions?
 
1 Attachment(s)
I'm looking for secure latch solutions for cabinets in my 13' Scamp.

I've read about the cabinet latch solutions of many including the Phlip-It latch Phlip-It RV Cabinet Latches , yet I did not see the following latch. Our closet latch, in particular, has never stayed closed when under way while most of the other cabinets have. For extra "hold" I add bungee cords to every door and icebox doors. They all hold tight except for the closet door. The porta-potty door holds tight without any extras, although I don't want to depend on that latch alone, if you get my drift. Just now, I thought of an extra bit of security for the porta-potty! I can put a 1" high wood (or other) bar across the inside front on the floor. The fiberglass edges of the bench would hold the potty from sliding forward and I can remove the board, when needed.

I found this latch on Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924 Trailer Hitches & Vehicle Accessories (800)298-8924. Camco Cam Lock (straight or offset) https://www.etrailer.com/Doors/Camco/CAM44333.html It also comes in a key lock form, which I do not need. I need something that can be left in the "unlocked" position when camping and in the "locked" position when underway. It looks like I only need to drill the wood cabinet and not the fiberglass. I believe the "offset" flange would be best for my purposes as it would neatly go behind the fiberglass wall.

So, I'd like to know if any of you have used this latch and I'd like to know of your success or lack, thereof. Being that our cabinet doors are made of particle board I'd like to know if there is a special way to drill and mount so that it doesn't deteriorate with time and vibration.

https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...4333_7_500.jpg

Ria 08-13-2016 10:24 AM

We have child safety latches and the hold extremely well. Similar to these: https://www.amazon.com/WONDERKID-Qua...105350&sr=1-31

mary and bob 08-13-2016 12:58 PM

Gilda, I have two of those latches in our Uhaul, one on a drop down hatch I installed, and another on a slide out drawer I installed in place of the furnace. Both work good, stay latched. Note that they come in a few different shaft lengths for different thickness doors or drawers. They are available from several sources, I found them at a RV dealer

Island Claire 08-13-2016 02:20 PM

Just learned today that there are special screws for particle board. They have less threads on them so they do not chew up the "wood" as much.

Franswa 08-13-2016 04:19 PM

special screws....
 
never heard of those......... I just been pre-drilling.....

time to "get with the times"????....

Naw, too old / too lazy to change;)

mswhipp 08-13-2016 05:48 PM

I have the 16' Scamp and find the Scamp latches work great - but you have to adjust them. If the closet isn't staying shut, just unscrew the screw and adjust. Hardware : Cabinet Door Roller Catch

Jon in AZ 08-13-2016 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mswhipp (Post 603525)
I have the 16' Scamp and find the Scamp latches work great - but you have to adjust them. If the closet isn't staying shut, just unscrew the screw and adjust. Hardware : Cabinet Door Roller Catch

I had the same issue with my closet door when I first got my used Scamp, but there was no adjustment left- probably installed a little off at the factory. So I flipped the door 180 degrees and reinstalled the old hardware carefully. Seems fine now. After four years, the door has not popped open even once. I did leave some adjustment room this time.

But the OP's approach seems like a great alternative. It doesn't have any screws going into the MDF but does require a fairly large hole through the door. Don't think there is anything special about drilling through the MDF, other than "measure twice, drill once"! Probably a good idea to drill a small starter hole before the big one. And of course, make sure you install it so the arm swings down from above rather than up from below.

Joy A 08-13-2016 07:19 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here's what I use for the 3 door cupboard over the Kitchen.

A piece of scrap Oak with 3 notches and some felt on the back side to keep from scratching the doors.

Glenn Baglo 08-13-2016 08:48 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Joy A (Post 603539)
Here's what I use for the 3 door cupboard over the Kitchen.

A piece of scrap Oak with 3 notches and some felt on the back side to keep from scratching the doors.

Couldn't you accomplish the same thing with a bungee cord hooked on and/or wrapped around the handles? Lighter weight, easier to store.

charlsara 08-13-2016 09:01 PM

We installed the Phlip-it latches on all our doors an drawers. They work great.


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Borrego Dave 08-13-2016 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo (Post 603563)
Couldn't you accomplish the same thing with a bungee cord hooked on and/or wrapped around the handles? Lighter weight, easier to store.

The bungee would work also Glenn but with Joys lock it can never open up because of the door swing and contact points. Really depends on how the doors and such swing. I use basically the same set up on my garage cabinet doors as I'm very close to an earthquake fault line.

Gilda 08-14-2016 09:58 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks everyone for your great ideas and suggestions.

I think the 3M child safety latches will do the trick as they will not damage the cabinet door nor the fiberglass AND they get rave reviews.

We tried to adjust the latch but it does not stay where put. Maybe we need to replace the screws with particle board friendly ones.

We have no place above or below the cabinet door to attach bungee cords. The one we have attached (sideways to the screen door) has too much "play" in it while under way (even when pulled tight) allowing the door to open. The photo shows the cabinet door in question with the bungee cord draped over the screen door handle. If we used a non-stretch strap with a loop on one end and an adjustable loop on the other, that might work.

Gordon in Idaho 08-14-2016 11:35 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm surprised no one has mentioned these:
Attachment 98491
http://go.rockler.com/tech/Positive-...structions.pdf
More simple and clean-looking than door bars or bungee cords, but a little harder to install. When the knob is pushed in flush, the door is latched. When released (extended), the door is free to open and the button serves as a knob. I have one and it works well.

I don't know about anyone else, but I was happy to say goodbye to those child-proof latches when my kids grew up.

Gordon

Gilda 08-14-2016 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gordon in Idaho (Post 603643)
I'm surprised no one has mentioned these:
Attachment 98491
http://go.rockler.com/tech/Positive-...structions.pdf
More simple and clean-looking than door bars or bungee cords, but a little harder to install. When the knob is pushed in flush, the door is latched. When released (extended), the door is free to open and the button serves as a knob. I have one and it works well.

I don't know about anyone else, but I was happy to say goodbye to those child-proof latches when my kids grew up.

Gordon

In my search on FGRV these latches were mentioned many times. I contacted a vendor and he said he has assisted many Scamp owners install them, but they used new wood doors NOT the original doors. I rented a camper van while camping in New Zealand and it had those "Positive-Action-Push-Button-Catches" and they worked beautifully!


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