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05-01-2011, 05:40 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Trailer: Triple E Surfside
Posts: 22
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Gypsy - How to dry out Aluminum sandwich?
I just purchased a 1988 Gypsy, which is a vintage lightweight using aluminum instead of fiberglass! (1,800 lbs for 18 footer)
It uses a thin aluminum skin on BOTH sides of a thin wood fiber "sandwich".
The problem I have encountered is how to dry out moisture that becomes trapped in the wood fiber between the two layers of aluminum.
I noticed that the baggage bin doors seemed a little heavier than I expected, and upon further investigation found when squeezed that water would oozze out! I think the doors are a little more vulnerable to this problem since they don't have tightly sealed edges, but I fear that the problem may exist in other areas.
My current impulse is to drill a few "air holes" at the top and bottom of the inside aluminum layer and hope that a few hot days may move the moisture out.
Alternatively, I wonder if there are any "water based" resins that I could somehow imbed in the wood fiber, which would help keep new moisture out.
Lastly, I may need to somehow force some warm air into the gap between the aluminum skin and the wood fiber. Any ideas on to force warm air into a small tube?
Any thoughts or experiences are most welcome.
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05-01-2011, 06:17 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 293
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Perhaps you would have better luck asking your question on a forum of aluminum owners rather than fiberglass rv owners.
Barrie
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05-01-2011, 06:22 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Trailer: Triple E Surfside
Posts: 22
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Hi Barrie. Yes, it occurs to me that this is not the ideal forum, but I have a fiberglass Triple E Surfside as well, and have found this forum to be a great resource for "vintage" campers.
Do you happen to know of any good alternate forums that might be more appropriate?
PS: Are you going to the Maritime Fiberglass meet this year (in PEI).
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05-01-2011, 06:34 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 293
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Hi Rob,
No idea where to go for help; sorry.
I am thinking about the PEI meet but by the time I pay for both the bridge and the KOA campground fee it's going to be a more expensive weekend than I want to spend; I enjoyed our meet last year at Murray Beach.
Barrie
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05-01-2011, 06:41 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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I would first try to figure how the moisture got there to begin with. To dry it out, low heat and low humidity. Something small I'd put in the oven on minimal heat. For the whole trailer, a body shop with a drying oven? Actually it could be an excellent reason to visit the desert south west. I don't think adding holes is the answer. Raz
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05-01-2011, 06:52 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,711
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I completely agree with Barrie. You'll receive more expert opinions on a forum dedicated to sticky-type trailers. This particular topic forum on FiberglassRV is:
Problem Solving -- Owners Helping Owners
Share your problems, concerns, fixes of Molded Fiberglass Trailers
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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05-01-2011, 05:04 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: jim
Trailer: 2022 Escape19 pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,710
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My stick built Lance had 3 holes on the bottom of each baggage door and the main door for the exact issue you have, water seepage will build up unless you have drain holes.
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05-01-2011, 07:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Wood aluminum sandwich
What type of wood? I seem to recall a aluminum balsa wood sandwich. Could your wood be balsa?
Before I would start drilling holes, remember the sailor who drilled a hole in the bottom of his boat so that the water would run out.
I would try placing the panel in a small room with a dehumidifier and hope for the best. It might take weeks for the moisture to get out. Possibly placing a heat lamp to shine on the flat side or even in the sunshine on a warm, dry day.
If and when you get the wood dried out, then is the time to seal the living daylights out of that sucker.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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05-01-2011, 07:23 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob vanNostrand
I just purchased a 1988 Gypsy, which is a vintage lightweight using aluminum instead of fiberglass! (1,800 lbs for 18 footer)
It uses a thin aluminum skin on BOTH sides of a thin wood fiber "sandwich".
The problem I have encountered is how to dry out moisture that becomes trapped in the wood fiber between the two layers of aluminum.
I noticed that the baggage bin doors seemed a little heavier than I expected, and upon further investigation found when squeezed that water would oozze out! I think the doors are a little more vulnerable to this problem since they don't have tightly sealed edges, but I fear that the problem may exist in other areas.
My current impulse is to drill a few "air holes" at the top and bottom of the inside aluminum layer and hope that a few hot days may move the moisture out.
Alternatively, I wonder if there are any "water based" resins that I could somehow imbed in the wood fiber, which would help keep new moisture out.
Lastly, I may need to somehow force some warm air into the gap between the aluminum skin and the wood fiber. Any ideas on to force warm air into a small tube?
Any thoughts or experiences are most welcome.
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Air conditioners are good dehumidifiers, run the air for an extended time,
get it inside if possible and run a dehumidifier.
take a trip to Tucson for a couple of weeks
If it is just the baggage door(s), you might consider removal and disassembly.
heat gun on low(with or without a concentrator), heat lamp at safe distance. How about adapting the appropriate sized copper tubing to a concentrator like a metal funnel
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05-01-2011, 07:31 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 Surfside TM14 (front kitchen)
Posts: 520
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and once it's dried out. I'd try to fill any voids or access points with some kind of injectable epoxy so it won't be rotting any further. Maybe check with a marine blog/site. seems to me there are boats made this way?
there's my 2cents
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz
I would first try to figure how the moisture got there to begin with. To dry it out, low heat and low humidity. Something small I'd put in the oven on minimal heat. For the whole trailer, a body shop with a drying oven? Actually it could be an excellent reason to visit the desert south west. I don't think adding holes is the answer. Raz
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05-01-2011, 08:38 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: Oliver
Posts: 713
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Do you know if the wood on the inside between the two skins is a laminate or a solid? There is always the concern when working with wood that has gotten wet that if one side dries quicker than the other it will contract more on that side and warp. Were that to happen, it could possibly pull something (like a door or hatch cover) out of line where it would no longer fit. A laminate (like plywood) probably has a slightly less chance of warping.
I agree that weep holes at the bottom only of the panels are probably a good idea as long as the area directly under them has no possibility of pooling water that could be re-introduced into the panel by capillary action.
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05-01-2011, 10:21 PM
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#13
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob vanNostrand
It uses a thin aluminum skin on BOTH sides of a thin wood fiber "sandwich".
The problem I have encountered is how to dry out moisture that becomes trapped in the wood fiber between the two layers of aluminum.
I noticed that the baggage bin doors seemed a little heavier than I expected, and upon further investigation found when squeezed that water would oozze out! I think the doors are a little more vulnerable to this problem since they don't have tightly sealed edges, but I fear that the problem may exist in other areas.
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That sounds like the way my baggage door is constructed.
I had that problem too. I had to disassemble the door panel by drilling out the corner rivets and slide the edges apart from their corner brackets (they are built the same way that an aluminum screen frame is built) then I had to discard the soaked filler material and replace it with 2 thin layers of a plastic sheet product that signs are made of. (I forget where I acquired this) and reassemble the door panel and reinstall it in the baggage opening.
I would do this for a door, but not a whole trailer.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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05-05-2011, 06:02 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Massachusetts
Posts: 137
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Ask the local autobody shop if you can borrow their painting stall/oven. If you cant dry it.Sell it and buy a fiberglass rv... lol
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05-08-2011, 06:47 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Trailer: Triple E Surfside
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson
That sounds like the way my baggage door is constructed.
Attachment 35591 Attachment 35592
I had that problem too. I had to disassemble the door panel by drilling out the corner rivets and slide the edges apart from their corner brackets (they are built the same way that an aluminum screen frame is built) then I had to discard the soaked filler material and replace it with 2 thin layers of a plastic sheet product that signs are made of. (I forget where I acquired this) and reassemble the door panel and reinstall it in the baggage opening.
I would do this for a door, but not a whole trailer.
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Yes Frederick, my doors are very similar to yours. (Mine have rounded corners). I also considered replacing them with painted plywood, but it would be nice to preserve the original design if I can. They are hard to take apart because they used a lot of rivets.
Anyway, so far I have drilled four 1/4" holes in the baggage door. Two at the top and two at the bottom, and leaving them open in the direct sun. Will see if that changes things before I get creative with a funnel with a hair dryer or something!
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