'84 Burro, A few questions on construction

[TomZ]

I did my into yesterday: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...hio-56564.html

I've done some searches, but haven't found what I'm looking for, yet...

Burro (and U Haul?) double hull construction. What I've gleaned is there are four hull sections L and R inside, L and R outside. If any of my concepts are incorrect PLEASE educate me. Other than the interior cabinetry protrusions, there is a relatively small dead air space between the inner and outer hull. The interior (and exterior) hull(s), are FG bonded to the FG coated wooden floor, which in turn is bolted to the frame. On point?.

How are the outer hull seams joined? Are they watertight? If they're not expected to be watertight, is the design concept such that water intrusion flows down between the hulls and out weep holes? Does the Trimlock aid in sealing? The Trimlock on my Burro is short several inches in several places. Is this a problem? What size Trimlock is used for the outer hull? Should the seams be sealed in any manner prior to replacing the Trimlock?

My Burro has zero molding on door. What is the optimum design and size for replacement?

I have tons of questions, but will try to limit them to one or two at a time to avoid overloading anyone, and/or fraying their nerves.

If there is reference material that anyone can recommend to avoid my endless questions, please feel free to point me towards it.

Thanks all!

[mary and bob]

On the Uhauls the outer seam is watertight, put together with fiberglass resin I believe. Ours had a small flaw in the seam on the roof resulting in a leak that I was able to fix with resin and cloth. The space between the inner and outer shell varies but in general is quite small. I've seen info here on trim look and rubber door seal material, you may be able to find it in a search.

[rabbit]

The Trimlok covers the short flanges of the mold halves and makes zero contribution to structural integrity or water-tightness. The shell halves are bridged by an additional fiberglass layup which is continuous on the centerline from floor ar rear to floor at front on the inside and is intended to unitize the hulls and provide a strong and watertight seam. Thruhulls (air conditioners, vents, fans, vent stack caps) are the usual sources of roof leaks in most trailers and especially in UHauls and Burros which do not employ thru hull fasteners to secure interior furnishings. I can't give you a source for a door gasket offhand but it's likely that someone here can.

jack

[jen b]

Yep, what jack said - if there's a center fabric headliner inside your Burro and you peel it back, you'll see where the two hulls are joined down the center line on the inside. The trimlok just kind of hangs out there as a cosmetic cover for the outside flanges. I chopped mine off and smoothed up the outside seam as part of a larger re-do.

The door can be sealed, or sort-of-sealed depending on whether or not it's hanging crooked, with one of those D-shaped rubber gaskets that has the sticky stuff on the flat of the D.

In my experience with a 1980 Burro, the windows are the number-one source of rain inside the trailer - all that rubber glazing has had a couple of decades to dry and shrink and lose its sealing capacity. I messed around with rebuilding my windows but am going to bag that and am getting new customs this spring.

[Kevin A]

A good door gasket is available from Perfect Fit. Since it worked on our UHaul, I'm sure it will also work on a Burro. The part number is ST-36-A and the link is Trim Seal- Vinyl Quick edge with round rubber bulb on the side.

[Carol H]

Kevin is that the same type of trim that Escape uses around their doors? Do you know if it will work on a Scamp?

[TomZ]

Originally Posted by Kevin A

A good door gasket is available from Perfect Fit. Since it worked on our UHaul, I'm sure it will also work on a Burro. The part number is ST-36-A and the link is Trim Seal- Vinyl Quick edge with round rubber bulb on the side.

Kevin, that looks perfect! Thank you,and thanks to everyone else who has responded. I'll be ordering that gasket shortly, after verifying the thickness of the door.

EDIT: Nope, won't work. Where the hinges are there is no lip on the door, it thickens to a couple of inches. The lip is approx .600" thick. I guess the 'D' gasket and contact cement is the way to go.

[TomZ]

oops

[Kevin A]

I can't speak for the door gasket fitting any other trailer. I know it fits a UHaul VT!

On the Burro, it might be that you could trim the gasket to accommodate the hinge area and glue that section flat to the fiberglass. The gripping action would hold it the rest of the way around. On our VT, I had to trim it to accommodate the door latch area. Or you could put self-stick foam trim in those areas and use the gasket on the rest. Or maybe not!

Could you post a picture of the hinge area you are talking about?

[CapnJim]

Hi, Tom, I'm new here as of today but I've just bought an older Burro and have a ton of questions myself! I see by the date that you've had yours for a while now; do you have any information to share on the Burro, paper-wise? I got NOTHING from the seller. I will need to replace the floor; what can you tell me about that? Thanks in advance, and it this is the wrong way to ask, let me know how to contact you otherwise. Jim