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Old 07-12-2015, 05:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
...fearing what others might have thought. Many people push real hard on ratings but it's reality that counts.
Good points. We've all seen too often, people towing way too much with way too little and as the other recent thread discusses in a slopping and unsafe manner.
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:42 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Outlaw View Post
Its also important to note that tow weight ratings are cut in half by the DOT if a weight distribution hitch is not employed. A lot of folks do not know this.
Thnxs for posting that Rob. I learned something!

It is amazing how much more the vehicle can tow with the addition of an aftermarket accessory or mod.

I guess the way the DOT looks at it would be that the F150 is capable of towing 6,000 lbs but with the addition of a WDH the vehicle is capable of towing double the weight. Interesting!
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:08 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
It is amazing how much more the vehicle can tow with the addition of an aftermarket accessory or mod.

(snip)...with the addition of a WDH the vehicle is capable of towing double the weight. Interesting!
Oh heavens... where can I learn more aboutt WDH? And how will I find out if the Volvo hitch IS one or NEEDS one added? (This is a concern because the manual states the V70 can tow 3400 lbs with the factory hitch. If the factory hitch has WDH, I'm worried the Volvo is less "beefy" than I thought.)

Thanks,
LP
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:13 AM   #24
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Go to etrailer.com for all sorts of info and videos. You will be able to look up your specific vehicle and find a WDH that is made for it.
BTW, your Volvo probably has a hitch receiver, not a hitch. A hitch receiver for use with a WDH has to be a class III. I don't know what class hitch receiver you have.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:15 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Ellpea in CA View Post
I'm worried the Volvo is less "beefy" than I thought.)
Thanks,
LP
LP..... Volvo's are one of the beefiest vehicles money can by. One of my pals has an S60 5cyl sedan and has been towing a good sized trailer for many years. He has traveled all over the continent. Works good with the WDH and pro setup.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:24 AM   #26
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A weight Distributing Hitch is a multi part connection. The first part is the hitch receiver on the vehicle. The factory hitch receiver may or may not support a WDH, that's a question that only Volvo can answer. And an after market hitch may have the same issue. If Volvo specifies to not use a WDH, do not override that specification.


The next part is the hitch itself which will consist of a much larger drawbar assembly and ball mount as well as a pair of long spring bars that lead back from the hitch itself and are connected, usually with a chain arrangement, to brackets on the trailer.


A warning, not all vehicles are designed to be used with a WDH, especially unit constriction vehicles, and not all trailer have frames strong enough to be used with a WDH.
Here are some images of typical WDH systems:
https://www.google.com/search?q=weig...FQhVkgodBcUPsw


And be wary if someone tells you "It is amazing how much more the vehicle can tow with the addition of an aftermarket accessory or mod." The vehicles weight specifications are an upper limit. Some mods may make it a better tow, but those weight number are cast in stone. If you think not, as I often suggest, ask your insurance agent and your lawyer before trusting that mechanic.



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Old 07-14-2015, 12:23 PM   #27
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Some mods may make it a better tow, but those weight number are cast in stone. If you think not, as I often suggest, ask your insurance agent and your lawyer before trusting that mechanic.
So if the insurance agent and lawyer say you are good to go does that mean your rig is safe????
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:31 PM   #28
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All of this is very confusing and discouraging to the novice. MC1 makes a great point. I guess the best idea is to be sure you know total weight and tongue weight, and get a weight distribution hitch, right? Maybe? Oh, and a tow vehicle able to pull it all. And approval of lawyers and insurance agents, and of course, your know it all neighbor who always disapproves of anything you build or set up!!! Ha!
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:51 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by George in New Mex View Post
All of this is very confusing and discouraging to the novice.
George, yes it is. The fine art of towing and tow vehicles is a very complex subject and the variety of opinions on the subject is endless.

"The numbers" will only take one so far. Many folks have put together a rig using the numbers only to find out it didn't perform up to their expectations.

Power, braking, handling, comfort etc are all variables that are items included in the overall rigs performance and are sometimes difficult to define.

As a newbie I sympathize with the you and your learning curve. We were all there once in your shoes and all have paths we have traveled to get where we are.

Internet forum discussions can only take you so far. Is there a towing or RV shop in your area that you can go to? They may have a solution for you based on their many years of experience. They may also have the expertise to get your choice of vehicle and trailer set up safely.
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:54 PM   #30
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While most seem to understand the inference, I will explain it again.


When asked, I doubt if an insurance agent or a lawyer will give an Okey-Dokey on an idea that involves towing over the manufacturers specified limits. Liability, not safety is the operative word here.


Try this question: "My owners manual states that the maximum I can tow is 1500 lbs, but Joe at Joes trailer hitches and welding sez that I am OK to tow 2500 lbs.


If I do what Joe sez can that have any effect on my insurance coverage and/or personal liability if there is an accident? And, if so, can I make Joe pay for damages?"



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Old 07-14-2015, 01:00 PM   #31
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George, you have inadvertently stumbled onto the most contentious issue on this forum! At risk of adding to the confusion, I will make one suggestion. Choose a vehicle that interests you. Look up the owner's manual online (you'll have to select a specific year and model). You can download the complete manual for many (not all) models online. If the vehicle is marketed for towing (which includes most mid- and large-sized SUVs and trucks), it will likely have a lot to say about all the things that have been thrown about here.
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:03 PM   #32
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Thanks again, MC1, and Bob Miller. Just have to cover all bases here. I think the best thing I've learned is that it's probably a lot better to have too much towing ability. Make sure your vehicle's towing numbers far exceed the weight of the trailer. Being too close to the limit would not feel good on a steep mountain grade.
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:05 PM   #33
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Jon, you posted as I was writing. Thanks a lot for that excellent advice! I just talked with my wife, who's a college professor. She says if a course catalog says you will get a degree if you take these courses and this number of credit hours, you WILL get that degree even if changes are made to those requirements while you're in school. Sort of similar to the chiseled in stone owner's manuals. They can't change their minds about those figures, so believe them and go from there.
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Old 07-14-2015, 04:02 PM   #34
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I'm going to go back to your question...

"We're new to all of this... are considering a 17 ft. Casita... do any of you have recommendations on the engine required in a tow vehicle to be able to comfortably pull such a trailer (long hauls on the interstates, up steep mountain roads, etc.? "

My wife and I bought a 17 ft. Casita Spirit Deluxe and have had it to the west coast and back from Nebraska. We started with an old 1996 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0.L six cylinder. It worked fine, but we felt we needed more power for the mountains. We ordered a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 3.6 L Pentastar six cylinder motor. I can't say enough good about it! We got 18 MPG average through all of our trips with the trailer. That includes lots of time traversing Vail Pass. I originally thought we wanted the eight cylinder HEMI, but others said it wasn't needed. The Jeep hardly notices the trailer is there and the ride is pure luxury. We even got the trail rated package and went off-roading in Moab Utah while the trailer was parked at Dead Horse Point campground. With the Jeep, you can feel at home in the campground or driving on Wall Street. The newer six cylinder motors are definitely more capable than the "good" old ones were.
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Old 07-14-2015, 04:18 PM   #35
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Tim... What you posted about the modern technology is so true especially with the high performance you can get from a V6 these days. Other factors that contribute to the performance is better transmissions etc.
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Old 07-14-2015, 04:21 PM   #36
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Thanks, Burtim. I also sent a private message. Great to read about a vehicle that works well with the Casita.
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:44 PM   #37
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Question V70 towing concerns

Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
LP..... Volvo's are one of the beefiest vehicles money can by. One of my pals has an S60 5cyl sedan and has been towing a good sized trailer for many years. He has traveled all over the continent. Works good with the WDH and pro setup.
So I've been googling V70 and factory hitch and WDH. It sounds like WDH does not work with the factory hitch and the 1.25" receiver. An article at the etrailer site recommends an additional part... but now I'm moving out of my comfort zone research-wise.

I know many here tow with a Honda Odyssey, and in looking at two of those yesterday I have to say they don't look as "beefy" as does my Volvo. I've compared some of the ratings of the two, and from what I can tell, the Ody is rated to 100 lbs more than the V70 (can't remember the tongue weights).

I know we have some Volvo towers here -- I'm hoping some will chime in with details about what equipment they have?

Best,
LP
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:52 PM   #38
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I don't normally like to post on any thread about tow vehicles. Usually they're far too opinionated or a string of anecdotes, rather than an analysis of published capacities. But, I'll simply agree with what Rob said. Have a margin. The difference in the towing experience is night and day. As for economy, we average 16 towing - on all types of terrain.
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Old 07-14-2015, 07:08 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
.... At risk of adding to the confusion, I will make one suggestion. Choose a vehicle that interests you. Look up the owner's manual online ...
This suggestion has MUCH more value than you may realize at first.

Often, there is more detail in the manual about a vehicle's towing ability, limitations, and requirements, that you will find in any review, marketing material, internet forum or from other owners.

For example, I had researched my vehicle before I bought it thoroughly, or so I thought. I knew that without a WDH it was rated at 3500 lbs towing with a 350 lb tongue limit. What I only learned after buying the car, and getting the manual, was that a sway bar is "required" is towing over 2000 lbs.

If you want expert opinions from the vehicle designers, engineers, lawyers and to some extent even insurance people.. the owners manual is the place to find it, all in one place.
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Old 07-14-2015, 07:10 PM   #40
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DOT Reference

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Outlaw View Post
Its also important to note that tow weight ratings are cut in half by the DOT if a weight distribution hitch is not employed. A lot of folks do not know this.
Rob,
I find it hard to believe that the 3500/350 pound rating of the Honda Odyssey is really 1750 and 175 without a weight distribution hitch.

Please post a link to the statement that "tow weight ratings are cut in half by the DOT if a weight distribution hitch is not employed".

Thank you.
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