Trillium Stove Top

[Randy J.]

Having decided to keep the stove, our 1976 Tril has a Brown Stove Works stove top model ZFJ002. The top appears to have been hand painted with - something black. I've stripped it and it looks like stainless plated steel under the paint. Does anyone know what the original finish might have been? Paint or shiny steel? Because of the rust spots I'm thinking of recoating it with high-temp, the kind used for BBQs. Is this considered safe for the concave area around the burner? Is there a better product?

And just a safety tip: Inspecting the gas line I found one of the plastic gromets that protect the line as it passes through the frame cross-member has shattered with age. The line is fine but I need to get some protection around it. Good thing to check if you haven't already done so or had your tech do it. I'm going to have the system checked but am trying to avoid surprises.

[JRTrillium]

Following this thread as I would like to refinish the stove top in ours as well ! Ours was painted silver . . . . it's ok but would like to redo.

[pogophile]

I have the same Brown Stove Works top in our 1980 Trillium. The original factory finish is chrome plated mild steel. In the case of our unit, this had rusted through the chrome in spots, and the underlying steel was pitted.

Getting such a unit sand blasted and re-chromed, or having it de-chromed (which can also be done by a chrome shop) then re-chromed is expensive. This leads to creative refinishing on the part of cheapskates such as myself .

I have a compressor, so I bought a cheapo Princess Auto sandblaster kit, some sand, and built a cardboard box, single-use blasting box with a window pane cover. It worked. I got most of the chrome off, and the remainder was well abraded.

Then I bought a spray can of Armor Coat High Heat Aluminum spray paint from Canadian Tire, and applied three coats. Every couple of years it will need another coat. It is not a particularly tough surface, but it is definitely heat-proof for everything we've done with the stove top, and it looks way better than rusted failed chrome.

[Randy J.]

Thanks. After posting, I contacted the technical department at Brown Stove and they got back very quickly with the following info:

. My model apparently had an enamel finish (although it sure looks more like the stainless coating you describe).
. High-temp paint would work just fine although would probably not last as long as the original.
. There are actually some parts still available for my model, although some have been discontinued.

Being really cheap myself (actually, I think of it as frugal , I just used Home Hardware eco-friendly stripper (nicer and safe to use, easier to clean up) and am sanding the rust spots smooth by hand. I've contacted Rustoleum to see which of their hi-temp finishes would be best. One is good to 350 degrees, the other 2000. Both are used without primer.

Randy

[pogophile]

Randy -

I think I would go with the highest temp rating possible. I don't have any way to test this, but I'm betting that the temperature immediately under a lit burner covered with a pan would probably get a lot hotter than 350 degrees on ye olde Fahrenheit scale.

The can of Armor Coat I used claims 650 degrees Celsius (1200 degrees Fahrenheit).

Boiling pasta water, cooking eggs, boiling tea water, that's pretty much what we do with our stove top, and no response from the paint at all. The only degradation we've had has been that after two years there has been a very tiny amount of rust showing again, right in the same area that had been rusty before, which is around the dial controls. I simply removed the top, which is dead easy, cleaned it a bit with mineral spirits and resprayed. Perfect. Good for another couple of years.

Your mileage may vary. And you might not like the silver color of this "aluminum" finish.

Steve

[Victor Benz]

With respect to the plastic grommet. I replaced all mine with old garden hose, slit lengthwise. From the take-off under the trailer through to the use point. I applied sealant at the penetration through the floor.


Vic

[Larry C Hanson]

Hi Randy,

During my 2 month trip to the high Sierras this summer
the old stove was working well for an almost 40 year old
appliance. The left burner was lit under the frying pan.
When I turned the right burner under the sauce pan a huge
flame about 2 to 3 feet tall shot out of the right hand valve..
I quickly turned off the left burner and pulled up on the right
shutting off the gas. On inspection the brass guts of the right
burner has disintegrated and were no more causing a gas
leak at the valve.

In order to have something to cook on I disassembled the
stove and filled the right valve with JB Weld to plug it up.
The rest of the trip I had a one burner cook top.

This trailer has spent its whole life in dry Arizona so I was
quite surprised that the brass guts of the valve would waste
away. Go figure?

Since the stove is so old I have replaced it with a new one
just for safety's sake. I feel lucky that I was not injured and
the trailer was not damaged.

Larry H

[Randy J.]

This could be important to anyone following this thread so I'll post it right away. The Brown Stove Works advice not withstanding, I contacted Tech Support at Rustoleum, described the application, and asked what paint they would recommend. Here is their reply:

Rustoleum Support: "At this time, we do not have a high heat paint suitable for use around the burner portion of a range". .

I've asked Rustoleum to clarify - ie. would the heat damage be purely cosmetic or might it cause a fire or produce poisonous fumes. I may not receive a reply as I'm sure they need to consider liability issues when giving advice.

What made me extra careful about this is last year seeing our brand new, cheapo, (Chinese) charcoal camping BBQ go up in flames when it overheated. The factory paint on the entire outer shell blistered and burst into flames becoming powder, leaving only shiny tin. It was kind of funny. But had it been the stove inside an RV it would have been quite another matter.

So the mean time, and since the rust damage is only to the cups around my burners, I'm thinking of just getting disposable liners for those and change them as needed. The rest of the surface is shiny and my wife likes that new trendy brushed metal look anyway

[Randy J.]

To Larry: thanks for your experience. Ah these old things! So far as I can see our valves look okay but I intend to have my tech inspect. We don't usually cook inside anyway but it's still important they are safe. Did you find a replacement to fit the cutout? Can you tell me what it was and approx price? I may replace ours anyway, partly for cosmetic reasons.

[Randy J.]

Thanks Vic, a workable solution. I plan to do something similar and, as I say, have my tech have a look.

[Carl V]

As for high-temp paint, you may want to look at VHT products, they have a good selection of heat resistant paints, like they used on engine manifolds. Some are apparently rated for 2000degF.

I've seen VHT rattle cans at Canadian Tire, I don't know if they carry the whole product line.

Click here: VHT

[Randy J.]

So, I've received clarification from Rustoleum of why they don't recommend their paint. Here is their reply:

Rustoleum Tech Services: "Our High Heat paints are not considered food safe, and are therefore not recommended for surfaces where there may be incidental contact with food. You may be able to find a food-safe high heat coating via a commercial/industrial retailer like Acklands-Grainger, or Fastenal. This is likely the sort of coating the manufacturer of the stove used".

NOT FOOD SAFE??? Oh the pitfalls of modern technology! One might ask why they recommend it for "BBQ grills (not the grates) and if they don't think the average handy guy might not consider "incidental contact". The warning is on the can, but one might well think, "well, I won't be actually preparing food on the surface". I guess the lesson is buyer beware (and ask!). I'm going to use aluminum liners and go with the brushed look, at least for now.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Larry C Hanson

Hi Randy,

During my 2 month trip to the high Sierras this summer
the old stove was working well for an almost 40 year old
appliance. The left burner was lit under the frying pan.
When I turned the right burner under the sauce pan a huge
flame about 2 to 3 feet tall shot out of the right hand valve..
I quickly turned off the left burner and pulled up on the right
shutting off the gas. On inspection the brass guts of the right
burner has disintegrated and were no more causing a gas
leak at the valve.

In order to have something to cook on I disassembled the
stove and filled the right valve with JB Weld to plug it up.
The rest of the trip I had a one burner cook top.

This trailer has spent its whole life in dry Arizona so I was
quite surprised that the brass guts of the valve would waste
away. Go figure?

Since the stove is so old I have replaced it with a new one
just for safety's sake. I feel lucky that I was not injured and
the trailer was not damaged.

Larry H

I'm with Larry on this. While others endeavor to use some items well past what might be called a normal life expectancy, I opt on the safe side when it comes to gas appliances such as stoves, cooktops and heaters/furnaces.

Between the open flame problem that Larry encountered, and CO fumes, my life, with it's 30 or so remaining years, is worth more than the cost of new appliances.

In as much as kitchen fires, for one reason or another, seem to be the leading cause of RV fires in general, I will always opt for the safer side of things.

It's interesting how concerned some are about running the refrigerator under way, but others don't give it a blink to use a 40 y.o. furnace.....Go Figure.

[Randy J.]

And I'm with both of you! Besides deterioration, those 40 year old appliances weren't built to today's standards. That's partly why we got rid of both our 40 year old furnace and fridge. And may well switch up this stove. The decrepit furnace was a tragedy waiting to happen and besides, gravity fed models haven't been considered safe since around 1980. And my tech, who I trust a lot, said that even if we did manage to repair the old fridge, which he was willing to do, he would have to red-tag it until I upgraded the cabinet to make it vapour proof as is now required.

I very likely don't have 30 more years. But no matter how long we might personally have to enjoy our pass times, we also have a duty of diligence to others. I'd hazard that most of us are pretty handy, but certainly not engineers or even certified trades people. We need to be careful what we do, really research things like this paint, and know when it's time to ask an expert. My two cents. Happy (and safe) trailering all!

[Kai in Seattle]

Regarding stoves...we have an original Duette (Trav'ler) and have seen elsewhere on FGRV that it may have once been recalled due to excess CO leakage...anyone know about this, as I've been unable to trace the posts that dealt with it (in a forum about something slightly different) and online otherwise have found nothing about any recall of Duette stoves. It's the 3-burner, 5-knob stovetop type with an oven and a heater vent below...the PO had it painted a lovely aqua, but we're thinking of going electric for our cooking and would probably just as soon take it out as risk it--after reading lal these posts, I'm even more nervous about all the 42-year old propane fixtures, piping, old tanks, etc.


And--if we took it out, anyone have any ideas about something called an "induction cooker" or other electric things that might work for cooking? Electric skillet, coffee pot, etc?


Thanks...
Kai in Seattle

[Bob Miller]

Speaking only based in hearsay knowledge from several unconnected sources.


I had a 1978 Sunrader with a Duette with space heater function and was informed by a well trusted RV dealer that they had been recalled due to co leakage when using the space heater function.


Several other sources on the Toyota Campers group, that also had the same stove in their similar vintage RV's, reflected the same information. As a result, I junqued mine and installed a cooktop.


Bottom line, the way the space heater function works, blowing oven heat out into the coach, is marginal at best and the price of a CO leak is way to high to take a chance,


Add to that, it's most likely well over 35 years old, and who knows what other safety issues may arise. I say ..... Goodby to Duettes....


At the very least, use the stove function, but not the space heating function.

[Kai in Seattle]

Bob Miller,
YES, you're the one who warned about this. I've read at least twice somewhere about people saying that the furnace on their Duette doesn't work, and gettilng advice on how to hook it back up. Seems like that may have been the original recall "fix" to disable the furnace. My husband was hospitalized once with CO poisoning--it was no minor matter! The most frightening part of his event was that he looked so healthy, nice and pink! (The headache finally drove us to seek medical advice.) They said had we waited until morning--well--he'd have had no morning. It can be very insidious! We take your advice very seriously and considering the stove is 42 years old and the range hood doesn't work properly, either, we're just going to take them out and scrap them. It's not worth it.; The storage and counter space will be welcome, and we'll use shore power and a few small, electric appliances.
Thank you for your advice, thanks for replying so fast.

[Larry C Hanson]

Hi Randy,

Sorry it took so long to respond. Took some pix
of my new stove top installation today. The new
one is on a slightly smaller box than the original.
Consequently, I used aluminum angle to fill in the
gaps around the new stove. Here are the pictures
of the final installation. Hope this helps.

Larry H