winterizing

[Pat in Michigan]

So my next question is….If you drain all the water out of your trailer do you still need to winterize it? Sorry, I am so trying to figure out how and when to winterize. My question comes from trying to go on a couple of trips before I winterize her and am wondering if she has no water in the system will there be a real big hurry to winterize. Thank you everyone for all your help

[Briantb]

Well it does get cold in Michigan.. If you have a water pump it will have water in it which will freeze and possibly/probably damage it

Sent from my XT1028 using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[Carol H]

Do not forget the P traps in sinks and floor drains - pour some anti freeze into them.

[Pat in Michigan]

OK I didn't think about that, thanks….

[Ice-breaker]

Originally Posted by Pat in Michigan

So my next question is….If you drain all the water out of your trailer do you still need to winterize it? Sorry, I am so trying to figure out how and when to winterize. My question comes from trying to go on a couple of trips before I winterize her and am wondering if she has no water in the system will there be a real big hurry to winterize. Thank you everyone for all your help

Maybe it is just semantics, but to me, the process of draining the fresh, grey and black water tanks, draining the hotwater tank, blowing water out of all of the freshwater lines with compressed air, and adding antifreeze to the sink and shower drains is "winterizing". There is no reason why you cannot continue to go dry camping with your camper after the winterizing process is done.

[Justabob]

I've looked at the Parkliner dvd on winterizing and think I have it down but, want to take a couple more trips before I go through it. I was thinking ahead though to spring and the process of getting the anti-freeze our of the system for drinking and coffee...Guessing just connecting a hose a running lots of water through the system and maybe some bleach?

[Eddie Longest]

Most of the fiberglass trailers have gravity toilets and the only freeze issue with them are the water input lines and valves. The Parkliner uses a macerator toilet, you have to pump antifreeze through the toilet to winterize the macerator pump, choppers and lines. You really don't want to have a crack in the macerator pump or discharge lines. The macerator toilets are very expensive and cost at least twice as much as other marine toilets, so you really want to take care of them.
You have the same issue with shower drains that have a pump assist as found in other trailers. The antifreeze not only keeps these pumps from freezing it lubes the impellers.

Eddie

[Darral T.]

I own a 13' 2010 Scamp and here's how I've successfully winterized for the past 4 winters:

First, I make sure the water heater is drained AND bypassed! If not, you can waste ALOT of antifreeze here.

Next, I "blow" my lines out (BE CAREFUL WITH THE AIR PRESSURE! I never go over 40lbs air pressure) then pour 1 gal of RV antifreeze in my water tank (that's been thoroughly drained!). I use my 12v pump to pump it FIRST to the bathroom sink/shower head and commode. This will protect not only those bathroom fixtures but also run into the drain, through the drain pump and hold in the traps. It will also help protect the outside sewage drain valve area. Then I go to the galley sink and repeat.

I give credit to Floyd for this idea, but at the sinks, I open the "hot water" valves, put my finger over the faucet, turn on the cold water valve and it will force antifreeze back up the hot water line into the water heater! Neat trick and it works. I do it in the bath just to make sure the hot water line has been cleared and treated with antifreeze.

Finally, before I'm completely done, I will go outside and press on the "pin" located in the city water fill inlet. This releases the line pressure and in the process will shoot out the water that's in it and usually a small amount of antifreeze will make its way out as well.

This may be overkill for many, but I've never had to replace water system parts that have been damaged by freezing during the winter. I also try to use the "Good to -50 F" antifreeze.

I agree, you can camp with it "winterized", but I personally would NOT go into "freezing" temps below 30 Deg F without my complete winterization process. That's just my opinion.

[Pat in Michigan]

I have not used my water heater yet does that mean I shouldn't have water in there or would it automatically fill when I put water in the tank? Thanks everyone for the information.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Pat in Michigan

I have not used my water heater yet does that mean I shouldn't have water in there or would it automatically fill when I put water in the tank? Thanks everyone for the information.

For safety sake, don't assume anything. I would think you'd have water in the lines and some in each tank if the manufacturer tested the system before you took delivery. I know my Escape was "tested." Those that are winterized have a green tag hanging in the kitchen that says "winterized." YMMV

[Huck]

Originally Posted by Pat in Michigan

I have not used my water heater yet does that mean I shouldn't have water in there or would it automatically fill when I put water in the tank? Thanks everyone for the information.

There is a bypass for the water heater on the Parkliner. So it depends on if water has ever been routed into the water heater. As Donna D suggested, assume it has.

Something the Parkliner video doesn't cover is removing the water heater anode.

[Darral T.]

Here's my Scamp's Atwood water heater setup. IF the Bypass valve is in the "Bypass" position (mine is on this pic), it pretty much keeps water out. But if it was on when you run the fresh water tank pump or hook it to city, some water will get into the water heater just from the system building up pressure.

You cant get ALL the water out of the bottom of your water tank when it's drained unless it's siphoned. But it wont hurt anything if it freezes because there's plenty of room for expansion. Not true for water in the lines and pump (AND wh) when they're full!

You say you havent used the water heater yet.....one CAUTION! Someway, set you a reminder to FILL the water heater BEFORE turning on the gas or electric unit to it!! If not, you can do permanent damage to the tank. If it's electric, it can burn the unit out in minutes or SECONDS even!

Another tip, when you drain the water heater, be sure to open the "pressure relief" valve located in the same exterior bay of your wh as your drain. It will drain MUCH faster this way.

Hope this might help a little. Feel free to ask more questions.

[gudmut]

So here's another question related to winterizing. I've drained the water heater. I have blown air through all of the water lines. I used the Camco Winterizing Kit (by passing the water heater) to push antifreeze through the lines. As I was "wicking" the bottom of the water heater prior to putting on the winter cover, I was surprised to find "pinkish" water coming from the bottom of the WH. How could antifreeze (a little - not a lot) get in there? What am I missing?

[Darral T.]

Look back on my photo and notice the lines in and out of my water heater. Look at yours and see if there's actual "pink" antifreeze in the line(s). If so, that will give you an idea from which direction it came. Did you possibly use my suggestion by pushing antifreeze back up into the hot water side of the faucet by holding your finger over the faucet while turning on the hot water side? This definitely allows some antifreeze to "back flow" into the water heater which wont hurt anything.

Otherwise, you could have had some seepage through the bypass valve if it's not closing/sealing properly. Again, it wont hurt the water heater.

Originally Posted by gudmut

So here's another question related to winterizing. I've drained the water heater. I have blown air through all of the water lines. I used the Camco Winterizing Kit (by passing the water heater) to push antifreeze through the lines. As I was "wicking" the bottom of the water heater prior to putting on the winter cover, I was surprised to find "pinkish" water coming from the bottom of the WH. How could antifreeze (a little - not a lot) get in there? What am I missing?

[Justabob]

This is my first winter with an RV and I will winterize it in a couple of weeks. I've drained the water tank and the refuse tank and thought I had the hot water tank figured out by opening both valves at the base of the tank but it won't drain. I know there is water still in the tank because you can hear it sloshing when you walk on the starboard side as the trailer is driven slowly. What am I not doing?

[Brian M. in NY]

Remove the anode rod (bottom center) from the water heater. This will require a 1 1/16" socket and is easier if you use an impact driver. Then duct tape a piece of 1/2" plastic tubing to the end of a wet/dry shop vac hose and insert through the anode rod hole to suck out the remaining water. I leave the anode rod out until spring and stuff the hole with copper wool to keep the critters out. Re-install in the spring with Teflon tape if the rod is still in good shape, otherwise order a new one. I think they are around $14 or so on the big A. YMMV.

[Darral T.]

Both of you own Parkliners so maybe they come with anode rods? Our Scamp's Atwood is just gas (until I added the HottRod). Plus, it's an aluminum tank and does not need an anode rod. Otherwise, it's simply a drain plug that needs to be removed to drain the water. IF it's an anode rod, instead of steel wool, you can get nylon plugs from most local hardware stores- ours is TSC- Tractor Supply Company. My Atwood came with a nylon drain plug.

He also speaks of 2 valves so I'm not 100% sure what he has. Maybe a pic and/or brand would help.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY

Remove the anode rod (bottom center) from the water heater. This will require a 1 1/16" socket and is easier if you use an impact driver. Then duct tape a piece of 1/2" plastic tubing to the end of a wet/dry shop vac hose and insert through the anode rod hole to suck out the remaining water. I leave the anode rod out until spring and stuff the hole with copper wool to keep the critters out. Re-install in the spring with Teflon tape if the rod is still in good shape, otherwise order a new one. I think they are around $14 or so on the big A. YMMV.

Brian you must have a Suburban hot water tank?

If the Scamp has an Atwood heater (most do) it does not have or need an anode rod. Atwood uses an aluminum tank instead of steel, so no anode rod needed.

To drain simple release the pressure value on the outside heater hatch and remove the drain plug. Also highly recommend purchasing a hot water heater rinser for the end of your hose to get it out. Otherwise a lot of sediment stays in the bottom of the tank resulting in it rusting out faster than it will if kept clean.

[Brian M. in NY]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Brian you must have a Suburban hot water tank?

Yes Carol, it's a Suburban. Unfortunately, that's the only way I've found to get the remaining water and sediment out of the water heater. I plug the hole loosely with copper wool to not only keep the critters out but also to allow air to (hopefully) circulate. At least it makes me feel better.

[Darral T.]

You can also use a hand siphon to remove the remaining water. I've done that on my Atwood.

Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY

Yes Carol, it's a Suburban. Unfortunately, that's the only way I've found to get the remaining water and sediment out of the water heater. I plug the hole loosely with copper wool to not only keep the critters out but also to allow air to (hopefully) circulate. At least it makes me feel better.