Propex HS2800 Heater Install - Trillium - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-06-2016, 12:32 PM   #21
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Name: Kelly
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I hope to put one in my Campster within a couple of years.

If you go to the marine supply stores they sell sound deadening insulation made for engine compartments. It is also flame resistant which is not a bad idea for putting in a furnace compartment. But it is pricey and it is heavy. However with a one inch clearance requirement that means you won't need all that much of it to box in a furnace compartment. Remember where there is a need there is likely a product solution for sale.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:29 PM   #22
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I love this idea!

Where does your exhaust terminate?
Do you run the exhaust away from the camper?
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:01 AM   #23
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I love this idea!

Where does your exhaust terminate?
Do you run the exhaust away from the camper?
You might want to read http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ace-76943.html, esp. this specific post in that thread: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post612075
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:12 PM   #24
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"So after contemplating getting a new heater for over a year I finally did it. I purchased a Propex HS2800 heater this spring and installed it a few weeks ago. After reading all the threads from FG owners on their Propex heaters I decided to go with the HS2800 which is the bigger 9500 BTU unit. My decision was based on having 2 small kids and often camping when the overnight temperature is in the 0 to -5 Celsius range"


I installed the Propex HS2211 in the same place in my 13' Scamp. That thing is LOUD LOUD LOUD. It might be quieter than the furnace that comes with the Scamp, but not so much that it is worth the upgrade. It is all fan noise and the noise comes out both the intake and output (hot air) vents. I am working on a muffler to muffle the noise. Sufficient power, I would NOT go with the larger furnace. In the teens we were able to keep the camper nice and toasty (with reflectix panels over the windows of course) and one night at -12 Faranheit it kept us at about 50 degrees and ran all night. Which was actually better because it is the cycling that keeps me awake.
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:27 PM   #25
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...
I installed the Propex HS2211 in the same place in my 13' Scamp. That thing is LOUD LOUD LOUD. It might be quieter than the furnace that comes with the Scamp, but not so much that it is worth the upgrade. It is all fan noise and the noise comes out both the intake and output (hot air) vents. ...
Did you use ducting or just have the vents with no added ducts? I understand that having the right length of ducting makes a big difference in the noise level.

Before you get in too deep you might want to talk to Karl. He is quite knowledgeable and helpful with ProPex heaters.

Karl Mullendore
USA distributor of Propex Heatsource
Westy Ventures /Â* Home
Phone 541.306.3959
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:08 PM   #26
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Kevin,

You might want to check the installation of your heater. Like I said, the sound of the heater is like a small hair dryer, not enough to keep you awake at night or annoying. The larger BTU size was actually recommend by Propex UK after talking to them directly about the application. I would buy the exact same heater again.


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Old 10-18-2016, 11:48 AM   #27
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hair dryer

Hair dryer, jet engine, same thing, it is more than enough to wake me up with ear plugs. BTW it is much quieter than a hair dryer, those things really scream. You can comfortably talk over the furnace fan. The problem with camping is that there is not any background noise, so it seems louder than it is. A noise maker might be an option to keep the ambient noise up a little bit.

I am mostly just frustrated with how loud the fan is because I spent a lot of money and effort trying to find the quietest heater option I could after my wife decided that the Wave 3 catalytic heater I had previously was a fire hazard for the more clumsy among us. If Propex would just put a lower power fan or turn it down a hair, this thing could be awesome, because you can't hear the actual furnace at all. In such a small space the fan is totally overkill. I would turn down the 12 V a bit to run it lower, but it has its own regulated supply, so that wouldn't make a difference and could even trip the low battery voltage prematurely.
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:33 PM   #28
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Fair enough. I am interested if you do any modifications to the fan. Let me know if you come up with something
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Old 11-30-2016, 06:32 PM   #29
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This is almost exactly the same install i'm planning. I went with the hs2000 and it just arrived.

I was planning to take it to Joe as well. Did you have everything already mounted in place so all they had to do was run and hook up the new propane line?

It looks like the thermostat is on the opposite side of the trailer, which way did you run the wires to get over there?
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:55 PM   #30
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Hi Kyle, yes I did all the installation except the gas line. The thermostat wiring harness that is supplied is long enough to run around the back of the dinette to the opposite side.
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:02 AM   #31
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Trailer: 1975 1300 Trillium
Yukon
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propex furnace install

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You do need to run the fresh air and exhaust tubes through the floor. I am not worried at all about the clearance with the tubes. I never take the trailer off road.
Hi Clayton--was reading about your propex 2800 install. We're researching the best option for a new furnace for our trillium 1300 (1975). I'm interested in the propex but not sure if the ducting under the trailer will work for us. We live in the Yukon and some of the roads here are diabolical, particularly the gravel roads. I wouldn't want to have anything happen to any of the tubes. So I wanted to get your opinion on whether I should continue to look at the 2800 as an option. Is there anywhere else to run the tubing? Is it hardy enough to withstand some gravel roads?

I should probably have a look at the manual to get a better idea of the space requirements, but was thinking about trying to install it where the furnace would have been if our model had come with it (under the sink). I've also read that some people install furnaces under the closet. I'm curious about that.

Thanks for your help!

Jen
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:40 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by jen11o View Post
Hi Clayton--was reading about your propex 2800 install. We're researching the best option for a new furnace for our trillium 1300 (1975). I'm interested in the propex but not sure if the ducting under the trailer will work for us. We live in the Yukon and some of the roads here are diabolical, particularly the gravel roads. I wouldn't want to have anything happen to any of the tubes. So I wanted to get your opinion on whether I should continue to look at the 2800 as an option. Is there anywhere else to run the tubing? Is it hardy enough to withstand some gravel roads?

I should probably have a look at the manual to get a better idea of the space requirements, but was thinking about trying to install it where the furnace would have been if our model had come with it (under the sink). I've also read that some people install furnaces under the closet. I'm curious about that.

Thanks for your help!

Jen
Jen, I am not Clayton, but do live in the same city. Does that count?

I just installed a HS2000 in my daughters trailer a couple days ago. What a super easy install. It took about 3 hours including running the gas line and tying everything in.

I too was sceptical of the 1" intake and exhaust lines going under the vehicle, but went for it anyway. Once I got it installed, I saw that there would really be no issue from road rash. The exhaust is really tough, and the intake just so-so tough. I would rather of had both pipes made of the same type as the metal exhaust one. The thing is, is that they are inside the frame, and away from any debris from the tires, so I doubt that there will be a problem. My daughter and S-I-L are going to monitor it.

It is not real quiet, but not too bad either. In hind sight, I should have gone with the one that mounts underneath, the HS2211 which Propex had recommended. It is only $150 more, would take a lot of the noise outside, and leave a bit more space inside. The casing on this wee unit is some tough steel so could easily handle anything the road threw at it.

The space it takes up is rather minimal though, and the big cabinet my daughter got in place of the Duo-Therm heater is a huge bonus for her.
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:35 AM   #33
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Hey Jen,

I agree with Jim in saying that the intake and exhaust pipes are up and out of the way. They are both mounted on the inside of the frame rails. I have had the unit installed for almost a year now and have not had any issues at all (although I have not been on any real off-road trips).

Jim - I would love to see some photos of your install....
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Old 03-30-2017, 01:42 PM   #34
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I like this setup! It sounds nice for a possible to-do. Got a question on the inlet/exhaust ducts.

Couldn't one run the ducts on the inside of the FGRV, then cut a hole in the floor at the end of the duct? That way from underneath all you have are the 2 holes? I realize you need room for the duct run in the FGRV for this to work.
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Old 03-30-2017, 02:00 PM   #35
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I like this setup! It sounds nice for a possible to-do. Got a question on the inlet/exhaust ducts.

Couldn't one run the ducts on the inside of the FGRV, then cut a hole in the floor at the end of the duct? That way from underneath all you have are the 2 holes? I realize you need room for the duct run in the FGRV for this to work.
The ducts come straight out the bottom of the heater, so unless you mounted it raised, would naturally exit right away. I think going the way designed is definitely best, keep them outside just as I would with the heater should I even install one again.
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Old 03-30-2017, 02:02 PM   #36
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Jim - I would love to see some photos of your install....
I need to catch up with the thread I started on the entire rehab. I will definitely take some photos and post. I installed it similar to yours, just on the driver side, with the thermostat on the side of the closet. I had already put a propane/CO2 detector in the spot you put your heat outlet.
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Old 03-30-2017, 10:51 PM   #37
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Jim and Clayton--thanks for your input on the hardiness of the ducting. It sounds like it would be fine on our trailer.

I have another question about the 2211 vs 2800. Like Clayton, I have 2 little kids and want the trailer to be warm for them. Our camping will be in the Yukon and Alaska, both of which can be chilly in the mornings, even in the 'summer'. I like the option of installing the 2211 outside but worry that it wouldn't have enough BTUs for us. What are both of your thoughts on that? Would the 2211 keep it warm enough when it gets down to 4C or 0? Or should I go with the 2800 like Clayton?

Thanks again!

Jen
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Old 03-31-2017, 06:59 AM   #38
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Hi Jen, after using my HS2800 now for awhile, I think the smaller 6500 BTU units (HS2211 and HS2000) would have sufficient heat output for our 13 foot units.


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Old 03-31-2017, 10:21 AM   #39
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I just installed a HS2000 in my daughters trailer a couple days ago. What a super easy install. It took about 3 hours including running the gas line and tying everything in.
Jim--one more question. What made you (or your daughter) decide on the propex instead of other furnaces?
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Old 04-02-2017, 08:14 AM   #40
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Note on heat output: a typical 120 volt heater puts out about 5700 BTUs, a little less than the smaller Propex model. If an electric heater keeps your camper toasty, so will the Propex.

I put a 2211 under my Snoozy. Works great, not much louder than the little electric heater we use when shore power is available. All the ducting is outside, propane, combustion air intake, exhaust, cold air return, hot air supply. Hot air duct is insulated.
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