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08-05-2016, 02:09 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Trillium outback
Alberta
Posts: 16
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Framing up a gutted trillium from scratch.
Hey gang!
Gutted my 2004 trillium a couple weeks ago. The thing was built to sell cigarettes at music festivals so there was really nothing in it besides a wall and a door. Had to take everything out because of leaks and black mold. Fibreglassed the holes/leaky areas and it's now water right. Put subfloor down and am about to do some framing with a red seal carpenter buddy of mine (thank God he's helping). Wanted to know if anyone has done this before? The only framing really in the thing was the wall before and the 2x2's they used to tack the plywood too went around the circumference of the inner trailer if you catch my drift. So all the way from the floor too the walls to the ceiling and back to the floor. Was thinking I should at least start here for structure. This was more or less in the middle of the trailer. Should I duplicate this framework at the front and the back as well for more support and help with sagging or would that be too much? Should I put posts in the corners? Is PL adhesive all I should be using to hold the studs? Thanks! Hers a pick up the subfloor I put in too.
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08-05-2016, 03:24 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Hi, don't know much about the Trill interiors but others will be here soon, Dave & Randy are the Trill guys. Most, if not all FG TTs use the interior cabinets for wall support. Without them the shell will sag. Others have built supports when doing mods to make it up. Guess it all depends on what you have in mind for an interior. There are a few I've seen that are fantastic make overs, yours could be next .
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08-05-2016, 05:06 AM
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#3
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Member
Name: Gavin
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 42
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Wasn't this trailer on Kijiji a few days ago? Anyways as for support where that wall was is where you need to frame some type ouf support on either side to keep the roof from sinking in the middle. I'm pretty new to the scene so I will let the veterans give you more informative advice.
You should post some pictures of what looks it like as well. When I saw the ad for it I had never seen that configuration on a 1300 before.
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08-05-2016, 08:19 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Trillium outback
Alberta
Posts: 16
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bought it from Saskatchewan a couple weeks ago. Pretty excited to get the frame up and see some potential! Pics to come!
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08-05-2016, 09:32 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: George
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 215
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Hi,
I have only rebuilt 2 Trilliums and both came with the interior fibreglass furniture and bunks front and back. You can see a lot of the pix on this site. I would go slow and design your interior before you put in a lot of framing unless you already know what your interior will look like. Good luck with that project.
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08-05-2016, 09:54 AM
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#6
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Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: boler
Ontario
Posts: 45
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I built some supports on my Boler when I gutted it and even though it was supported on the walls the roof caved in under the weight of the snow. I'm not going to build a cross beam as Boler didn't have one at the start but I will build a winter support frame in the centre so as to avoid this problem again. then take it out in the spring
Tim
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08-05-2016, 07:26 PM
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#7
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Member
Name: Gavin
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 42
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This "concession" style trailer was made from factory. It didn't have any dinette's closets or stove/fridge style molded into it. When you walked in the door there was a shelf where the upper bunk would have been and under where a front dinette would have been where lower versions of the seats on either side. To your left was a wall with another door and door handle lock like the outer door. Go through that door and where the rear dinette would be was just a wrap around shelf. On either side were what looked like small supports over where the wheel wells are. The shelfs offered know structural support.
I'm pretty sure the way it's built if you have only removed the wall structure you could build it anyway you like just try to support it on either side like the wall did just with no middle section where the door was. Maybe come out about a foot on each side like the camper versions did with the closet and kitchen.
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08-05-2016, 08:49 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Trillium outback
Alberta
Posts: 16
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Here's the first days work on Framing. Really surprised how the wall near the door really sturdied everything up. The door shuts way better, and there's noticeable less sag than the other side near the roof.
More pics to come as I keep working.
I think I finally figured out how to attach pics LOL...
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08-05-2016, 09:47 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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Great tip, Tim. I have been pondering how to protect my trailer during the winter and an inner support frame sounds like the answer. We had a garden shed roof collapse a few years ago and I know I have to do something.
Thanks.
This is why I read nearly every post, current and previous, and love the forums. One little comment can be a game changer for someone else.
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08-06-2016, 05:51 AM
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#10
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Commercial Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Boler13/trillium4500/buro13
Ontario
Posts: 1,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricia D.
Great tip, Tim. I have been pondering how to protect my trailer during the winter and an inner support frame sounds like the answer. We had a garden shed roof collapse a few years ago and I know I have to do something.
Thanks.
This is why I read nearly every post, current and previous, and love the forums. One little comment can be a game changer for someone else.
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Princess auto sells a simple adjustable drywall support jack for about 30 bucks . Will really help in areas with lots of snow load.
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08-06-2016, 09:27 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Trillium outback
Alberta
Posts: 16
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Do you guys think it would be useful to glue some strapping width wise to the ceiling similar to boat ribs? I put some in so my fantastic vent had something to screw into and even that helped a lot with the sag. Would doing the whole ceiling every 12 inches or 16 be overkill?
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08-24-2016, 11:36 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Trillium outback
Alberta
Posts: 16
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Thought I'd show you guys some of my work so far
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08-25-2016, 08:56 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Joe Thoen, owner of Trillium / Outback, told me that they built about 16 of these trailers as cigarette stands. It is no longer legal to sell cigarettes that way.I have seen a couple of them for sale on kijiji.
They seem to have had lights, on the roof, at the rear of the trailer. Did yours have them?
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08-25-2016, 09:39 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Jeremy
Trailer: Trillium outback
Alberta
Posts: 16
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Yes this one did have lights I opted to remove them because water was coming in where they were mounted. They were somewhat making the ceiling bow too.
There were also mounting brackets that I'm assuming a sign could be mounted in to.
A really neat idea, but not something I needed in a trailer.
In total I think there was nearly 50 screw holes that I Fibreglassed to make it water rtght.
Sure is a lot of work to redo a trailer lol!
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