Scamp front floor replacement couch removal - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:09 PM   #21
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Name: RogerDat
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Originally Posted by mszabo View Post
Roger, use your scissors and cut your own.
Take a piece of mat and cut it up the way you want it.
Same as what you would buy.

Just cut 1/4 strips and shred to get some chopped fibers?
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:52 PM   #22
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Cut it the way you want to use it. You can pull it apart into strands.
Save you a trip, time and money.
Same stuff.
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:17 PM   #23
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Cut it the way you want to use it. You can pull it apart into strands.
Save you a trip, time and money.
Same stuff.
Thanks. Good to know, I had to buy a sheet of that matting that should be way more than I need for the job at hand. 3 x 5 foot piece to do about 125 inch seam approx. 4 inches wide.
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:32 PM   #24
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Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
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That's the same kind of leak that got my floor.

On the floor tab, I used fiberglass cloth, and just slit it in the sharp corners. Worked fine.


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Old 08-26-2014, 10:11 PM   #25
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I mixed up a batch of resin and applied that to the seam, held it in place with a piece of aluminum foil. After forcing the resin back into the crack with a brush I laid the foil over the top and pressed it in with my finger.

We had a bad storm today 60+ mph wind gusts and 3 inches of rain. Nothing came through the belly seam.

I sanded that first coat tonight and now that I have the silica and mat I cut up some fiber from the mat and made a batch of stiffened resin. Applied the same way, with foil. This was to fill in the depression and give the seam some strength.

Front window frame leak has been fixed. I have a tiny leak where the rubber "D" seal along the top of the opening window has come unstuck.

For those not familiar with these old style Scamp windows they have an aluminum frame riveted to the shell, the part of the window that opens hinges at the top and has prop arms to hold it up in the open position. The D seal goes between the aluminum frame of the panel that opens and the window frame attached to the shell. The seal gets squished between them when the window is pulled in and latched.

My seal just needs to be put back where it belongs with a little adhesive.

I also have silicon caulk glazing on one window that no longer is adhering to the Plexiglas so that window allows water into the window frame. Rains hard enough and the frame can't drain fast enough so it overflows to the inside. Todays hard rain left a spot about 1/2 the size of a dollar bill on a bench seat. Have the silicon to re-caulk that.

Really need to try and locate the actual glazing strip that locked the Plexiglas into the frame and sealed it. But will caulk for now.
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:33 PM   #26
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Floor is out! Hmmm what did I learn?
Oscillating tool is just the ticket. Buy the wood/steel blades. Needed both a large curved blade and short straight one as was suggested. Curved is better for the long cuts but the straight is good for the tight spots.

Had to cut some FG tabbing from underneath to get the floor to release.

Had to use a 4 inch grinder to grind the screw heads off. Used the oscillating tool to cut some of the wood away from the screws so there was less smoke from the heat of grinding the screw heads. Definitely need the door open.

With floor out I can move the door frame without using much force to true it up. Tonight am going to get the wood brace made for the bottom of the door so it will be ready to attach with tabbing in the morning.

Plan is to grind off the screw shafts, wire brush the frame for painting. And the FG to be ready for fresh tabbing. Then set the door brace piece and while that fiberglass sets paint the frame.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:16 PM   #27
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Roger
Three notes. If you hold a shop-vac hose next to your multi- tool blades while cutting it will catch most of your fiberglass dust. Before tabbing use a twisted wire brush on a 4/4.5 " grinder to remove the old glue and rough up the wall where you plan to attach the tabbing to the wall. An abrasive wheel will cut through the wall before you realize it. Cover up everything you can because this really makes a big mess. Paint the frame before you start putting things back together I have seen frames rust through on top under the wood especially under the rotted damp wood.
Eddie
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:35 PM   #28
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Well I have the bottom door brace replaced. Was able to figure out a way to pull the door hinge side straight in to true up the bottom of the door opening which was about 1/2 inch wider than the top.

In the picture there is a small C clamp on the wood shelf that supports the couch and a deep C clamp on the floor in the door way. Between the two is a loop of rope that by twisting with a wood bar draws the rope tighter.

By running a rope over the 2 x 6 cut the same height as the couch shelf it turned the downward pull to the clamp on the floor into straight across pull.



Approach comes from two farm techniques. Loop of wire with a wood bar twisted to tighten is how fence posts are drawn tight to the next post. The 2 x 6 "pole" is a variation of pulling a stump. You use a pole under the chain to turn the straight line horizontal pull of a tractor into pulling up on the stump to lift it out of the ground.

When trying to solve a problem it always helps to channel your inner redneck. And have a good supply of C clamps.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:21 PM   #29
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Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
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When trying to solve a problem it always helps to channel your inner redneck. And have a good supply of C clamps.
True that! Although I prefer big throat vise grips myself. Oh, and drywall screws. Lots and lots of drywall screws.
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:41 PM   #30
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Bottom door brace seems solid and door once again aligns properly (or close enough).

Front frame is wire brushed and painted, wood floor piece is cut and resin coated to dry overnight.

Found that inside of front frame riser probably had ensolite on it at some point, had been removed then painted, remnants of the foam gave paint job a textured surface . Wire brushed all that off and re-painted.

Floor should go in in the morning. Now it's a shower and a well deserved bed!
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:50 PM   #31
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Top picture is repaired door base support.

Middle picture is frame painted and ready.

Bottom picture is wood floor with block between wall and new wood with second block propping floor up. This is so I could put bead of construction adhesive on trailer frame to seal out water and access the wall to put fiberglass resin on at the same time.

Construction adhesive has a longer pot life than the fiberglass resin, I had everything ready to go. Drill for pilot screw holes, Drill to drive the screws into the frame, weights to hold the floor down.

If I had it to do again I would put the construction adhesive on the frame before adding the catalyst to the resin. Had to work pretty fast to get it all done before the resin started to set up.

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