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Old 11-12-2014, 05:07 PM   #1
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Name: Gwendolyn
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California
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13' Scamp Weight

I bought a 13' Scamp last year. The salesman told me my 2012 Honda CRV, with a towing capacity of 1,500 lbs, would have no problem towing the Scamp and that with an air conditioner it weighted 1,100 lbs. The Certificate of Origin for the Vehicle has the shipping weight of 1,000. lbs.

After reading some of the actual weights listed on this forum I decided to have my trailer weighted and I'm devastated. Empty it weights 1,866 lbs. I can't even tow it empty!!! I love my trailer but cannot afford to buy a new car. I thought I did all the research but feel like I was deceived.

That being said, I was told an EZ Lift would help distribute the weight. But I read that 13' or shorter trailers are not supposed to use them.

Can anyone out there help me.

Senior Citizen in Distress!!
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Old 11-12-2014, 05:38 PM   #2
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Was your trailer weight with the full trailer on the scale or hitched up on the Honda? Did you weigh the total weight with the Honda and trailer to see if you were within total gross weight? Does your trailer have brakes?

You really don't want to exceed GVWR that's maximum weight tug trailer and everything aboard people included.
Tow weight should not count tongue weight. Tongue weight is carried by the Honda not towed. Weight at axle on trailer while hitched is towed weight.
Why is your trailer so heavy do you have a deluxe model with all the bells and whistles, larger battery, 2 propane tanks and full black , grey and fresh water tanks? added air conditioner and awning. What year is your trailer?
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Old 11-12-2014, 05:46 PM   #3
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Name: Gwendolyn
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This was the 2014 Scamp trailer only. The trailer does have brakes, one prophane tank, battery and air conditioner, no bathroom or duluxe model. NO water tank but an empty grey water tank. This is empty weight.

I'm pretty new at this and the only upgrades were the brakes and air conditioner.

Should I have it weighted while hitched to the car? with the car or without the car on the scale?
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Old 11-12-2014, 05:58 PM   #4
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Smile weight

Write everything down.

Weigh the car and trailer with the people in it.

Drive forward until the car wheels just leave the scale.

Crank down the tongue jack so it is on the scale, unhitching from the car.

Weigh the trailer.

(Don't forget to rehitch before driving off.)

Now you know the weight of your total rig. the trailer, and the tow vehicle, (subtract the trailer from the total weight.)

(If you don't get a certified weight, a private scale may let you get a weigh for free.)

Look in your tow vehicle owner's manual which should give you your vehicle's capacities.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:00 PM   #5
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Name: Gwendolyn
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I miss stated the empty weight - It was 1,544 NOT 1,866. BUT 1,544 is still over my tow weight.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:02 PM   #6
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I would have 4 weights if I was worried about it. Car weight only, car hooked to trailer and car only on scale, Car hooked to trailer and trailer wheels only on scale and the final one trailer only not hitched to car. If you want to splurge a final weight full trailer with all tanks filled for camping with grey and black tanks filled. This is a weight towing you should never see. Make sure you add weight of people too who would normally be in the car with you. Then I would read you owners manual for the car and make sure you have all options that apply the the car you actually own. Then you can decide what you need to work on.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:34 PM   #7
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My 2014 - 13, deluxe wood, front bath, 1 propane tank and battery, w/o AC or awning weighed 1650 dry from Backus.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Gypsy View Post
I miss stated the empty weight - It was 1,544 NOT 1,866. BUT 1,544 is still over my tow weight.
I am assuming this is the total weight of the trailer including the tongue weight? If so a loaded 13' Scamp (full propane tank) averages at about 200lbs on the tongue which would put the weight actually being pulled at about 1350lbs with the car taking the 200lbs of tongue weight.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:10 PM   #9
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As mentioned the towed weight does not include the hitch weight.

The GVWR from the owners manual is the total weight capacity of vehicle, passengers and cargo PLUS the hitch weight . That is the one you most want to avoid going over as it represents the maximum weight the frame, suspension and tires is designed to carry.

More you move out of the vehicle to the trailer the less weight is going against that GVWR because properly loaded the trailer should only be putting 10% of it's weight on the hitch, but the more weight you will be towing.

There is also a GAWR which is the Gross Axle Weight Rating, if you have ever seen someone towing with the tow vehicle pushed so far down in the back vehicle looks like a plane taking off it is a good bet they are over the rear axle weight rating or have one crummy rear suspension (probably from that overloaded towing).

You can probably juggle things to stay within ratings but it will be close and you will probably want to take it easy as far as speed goes.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:56 AM   #10
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Gwendolyn just in case you misinterpret my comment regarding the tongue weight being carried by the vehicle as apparently another member here did.

I just wanted to make you aware that the tongue weight of the trailer needs to be included in your calculation of the total GVWR weight that a previous member mentioned.

Not suggesting that the tongue weight of the trailer may or may not be included in the vehicle manufacture towing spec limit of your vehicle.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:06 PM   #11
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Gwendolyn,

We also bought a 2014 Scamp 13L1 with the 54" bed in October of last
year. At that time, we towed with a 2011 Honda CRV. Your 2012 CRV
has 5 more horsepower and 3 more highway mpg than our 2011 CRV.

Having read the "weights in the real world" thread, I deliberately left off
the A/C, bathroom, furnace, hot water tank, deluxe cabinetry, etc. and
did everything that I could to configure for minimum weight. I know
that the Scamp brochure lists the weight of a Scamp 13 at 1200-1500 lbs.
I was shooting for the lower end of that range, but I have not yet actually
weighed our trailer.

Another forum member (Norm) has regularly towed a Scamp16 all over
the country with an older, manual transmission CRV. He holds the speed
down, and has no top-mounted A/C dragging in the wind. He seems to
have done just fine.

Since our CRV is an automatic, we did add a transmission oil cooler to
protect the transmission from overheating. We often tow in D3, especially
in any sort of rolling terrain or uphill grades. IIRC, your 2.4L engine
develops its 185hp at 7000 rpm. In the 3000 to 4000 rpm range, although
perhaps not rated for it by Honda, I suspect that your 2.4L will do OK with
the trailer.

The CRV is/was my wife's car. I have since traded my older higher mileage
car for a 2014 Ford Escape that has 240hp and 270 ft/lbs of torque in the
~5500 rpm range. With the factory tow package, it is rated for 3500 lbs
towing and 350 lbs of tongue weight. We now regularly get between 21
and 23 mpg when towing at around 60 mph.

With the CRV, we were much more affected by headwinds and uphill
grades and we usually got about 19 mpg towing at around 55 to 60mph.

With the Honda CRV, the Scamp13 was right at the top of the vehicles
tow weight limit. With the 2014 Ford Escape, we are under half of the
vehicles rated capacity.

If the Ford Escape were unavailable, I don't think I would hesitate
to tow with the 2011 CRV again.

Make sure that you have weighed the trailer correctly. If your own
trailer weight is correct, I know that will be disappointing. I too have
wondered if the Scamps published weights for the 13 might be
a bit deceptive (or optimistic?) and I wish that Scamp would give
you/us a certified weight as the trailer leaves the factory.

That said, just be aware that you are operating at the top end of
the vehicles rated capacity and I think that you will probably be OK.

Ray
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:14 PM   #12
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Name: Gwendolyn
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California
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All of this is very helpful and I'm still angry at the salesman. I have a "Certificate of Origin for a Vehicle" that I received upon delivery. It states the shipping weight at 1,000 lbs. this is obviously incorrect and really upsets me. I will call them when I'm in a better mood.

I will re-weight the trailer with all measurements suggest above - as well as the car.

I have big plans for traveling 50% of the year and have already put 10,000 miles on my car from a road trip with the SCAMP this past spring. It's scary that I had loaded 400#'s into the scamp thinking it weighted 1,100#'s. Now I know I was towing almost 1,900#'s. I didn't have any problems - except I did have trouble backing up hill - now I know why.

Thankful for all of your help!
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:28 PM   #13
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Name: RogerDat
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It is a bummer that after your research and homework to get a compatible tow vehicle and trailer this monkey wrench gets dropped into your plan.

I too should clarify you can't make weight "vanish", you engine, transmission and brakes are going to have that same load to handle, what you can control is how that weight is carried and where.

No matter what you will be pushing the limits, those limits and how strictly to follow them are a contentious issue on the forum. Good points made by those that push the envelope, or exceed the limits, and also good points made by those that consider this dangerous or fool hardy. If that discussion gets re-hashed this close to Christmas a lot of members can look forward to lumps of coal, it gets pretty heated. I can summarize the main points.

Bottom line pushing the tow and weight limits puts more on you. Lot easier to tow safely at 1/2 capacity than at or just over capacity.
  • The amount of gear you load and how it is distributed has more impact on handling.
  • The speed you can safely maintain, Norm and Ginny did mostly 2 lane travel at slower speeds in shorter runs.
  • Your running gear such as tires, brakes, hitch, etc. needs to be carefully maintained and checked often.
  • You may need an anti-sway, weight distribution hitch, transmission cooler or other extra equipment. Depending on if your vehicle can accommodate them.
  • Level and proper weight distribution become critical.
  • There will be extra wear and tear on your tow vehicle if you push it to capacity.
  • Driver fatigue, it is more stressful to tow when pushing limits, it takes more vigilance and anticipation of the terrain and traffic ahead when you lack surplus power, maneuverability, and braking.
There is also a general issue of safety, can you safely control the trailer? That is your responsibility and it gets harder the more you push limits. Also to be considered is will your insurance give you grief over being "over weight" if you have an accident. At 55 lbs. over I would say the insurance risk is slight but it is something to consider as you load the trailer. If you are obviously overloaded and having trouble controlling the rig it could be noticed by witnesses and become an issue.

I think it certainly is possible to tow your trailer with a CRV, could even be done successfully and extensively I'm sure. People have done it. What no one else can answer is do you have or can you gain the knowledge and skills to do it.

I do not mean that to be insulting or harsh at all. I will drive during some pretty nasty winter weather that my wife will not drive in. I'm comfortable doing so, she is not. It would be foolish for either of us to insist the other was wrong or should make the same choice.
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Gypsy View Post


I have big plans for traveling 50% of the year and have already put 10,000 miles on my car from a road trip with the SCAMP!
Again not to be rude.. But how many more miles will it take you to believe you can tow it


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Old 11-14-2014, 06:17 AM   #15
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You know some folks have looked at me crazy when I've told them my 2001 Scamp weighed 1700lbs. fresh off the truck. I must say the difference between mine and yours is that mine came with an A/C, furnace, refrigerator, all the optional cabinets, etc, etc. etc. Basically fully loaded with exception of the bathroom and hot water.

So your trailer sounds as if it's in line with mine.

Now at the time I ordered mine the brochure still said the 13 footer weighed some 900lbs. I knew better with a fully loaded trailer, however I was surprised mine was 800lbs heavier than the brochure.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:51 AM   #16
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It would seem that towing weights set by MFG's are set for the "Worst Case Scenario" not just for the good times. Just because Joe tows overweight without problems for 100,000 miles may just mean that Joe is a more experienced driver and/or never encountered that worst case problem.


Those that tow in the Midwest or Florida may seldom encounter an up or down grade steeper or longer than a freeway exit ramp, while those on the west coast can face much greater challenges, especially down grades where weight vs. brakes is everything, and on a daily basis.


Just driving main highways for the last month in Washington and BC, I encountered a number of 5+ mile long 8% grades, something some other owners seldom, if ever, encounter.


That said, what Joe did may have little or no value as to what someone else may be doing. Stick with the mfg's numbers and towing at or over even 80% of max ratings is somewhat of a crap shoot, especially for the novice driver in challenging conditions.



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Old 11-14-2014, 10:08 AM   #17
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CA Gypsy....can I guess the Salesman? If not, mine was Jim Coffland (connected kin to ownership). He TOO told me my 2010 13' Scamp "Loaded" (including bathroom) would weigh about 1300lbs!! I took mine to a local CO-OP here in Columbia when I returned and left it setting on the scales ALONE. As pulled from the factory, it weighed 1740!
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:01 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Gypsy View Post
.......

I have big plans for traveling 50% of the year and have already put 10,000 miles on my car from a road trip with the SCAMP this past spring. It's scary that I had loaded 400#'s into the scamp thinking it weighted 1,100#'s. Now I know I was towing almost 1,900#'s. I didn't have any problems - except I did have trouble backing up hill - now I know why.

Thankful for all of your help!
Sounds like the information that would be most useful is what can I do to improve safety, handling, durability etc.

You know you can tow the weight, now it is mostly about what can you do to make that a better experience.

And a little commiseration on the whole reality not matching what you were led to expect. I have read that trailer official weights are generally sans appliances or any options (who knew propane tank and battery was an optional item), just the base trailer. Since the options ordered can vary a great deal it sort of makes sense (in a basackward sort of way) one can compare the different makes and models on an apples to apples basis since they all do it that way. This is what makes the Trailer weights in the real world thread so very useful. It provides a reality check.

I would think that Scamp would have a pretty good approximate idea of the true weight that will result from the options a customer selects and should provide that information at the time of order, your experience indicates one may need to push for that information. Thanks for sharing as a heads up to others.

Letting them know that you really needed to know the real world weight that the trailer as ordered would weigh is important feedback you as a customer can provide. Once you feel like you can do it without just getting angry. <_<
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:57 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Those that tow in the Midwest or Florida may seldom encounter an up or down grade steeper or longer than a freeway exit ramp, while those on the west coast can face much greater challenges, especially down grades where weight vs. brakes is everything, and on a daily basis.


Just driving main highways for the last month in Washington and BC, I encountered a number of 5+ mile long 8% grades, something some other owners seldom, if ever, encounter.
Bob raises a very good point. One should give some consideration to it. Its been my experience that a great deal of how well a vehicle that has been used to tow close to its towing capacity works out may depend greatly on where & how you tow.

I am one of those who tows a great deal in BC and Washington where some here might suggest that what I call a little hill is a mountain. I do due to time restraints tend to use main highways as well. It is tough on a vehicle pulling in those conditions at its max towing capacity or just under. Had to retire a vehicle from towing due to wear and tear issues that had pulled a trailer that was only about 400lbs under its towing capacity after it had 60,000 miles on it, of which about 50% was towing. Its for the past year been only used as a commuter vehicle by another family member but the issues of wear and tear from its towing days had continued to mount $$$ .... currently in the market for a new commuter vehicle.

I like the OP had a brand new vehicle when I went looking for a trailer that did not weigh more than its towing specs. Discovered the hard way like they did that one should not always believe what they read here and or are told in regards to trailer weights. Unfortunately the thread Trailer Weights in the Real World was not around when I was shopping for my trailer. I made the mistake of believing what was posted here on various threads as to what people thought their trailers of the same make and size weighed loaded. Sadly its seems that many of those who posted the info had never actually weighed their trailers. The good news for me was I did end up with a trailer that weighed in under the total towing spec (by about 400lbs) set by the manufacture but sadly was a bit over on the tongue weight spec. Was able to do a number of things to mitigate that problem - i.e. not putting much of anything in the rear of the vehicle when towing and no rear passengers. It worked but it was not the best of situations & frankly a bit of a pain to have to keep such a close eye on it.

In hindsight due to how poorly the vehicle has worked out in regards to wear and tear issues $$$$ I probable would have been better off to have sold the vehicle and taken the loss of getting rid of such a new low milage vehicle and purchased a vehicle with a bit higher towing spec.... pretty sure in the long run it would have been cheaper.
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Old 11-14-2014, 02:08 PM   #20
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In hindsight due to how poorly the vehicle has worked out in regards to wear and tear issues $$$$ I probable would have been better off to have sold the vehicle and taken the loss of getting rid of such a new low milage vehicle and purchased a vehicle with a bit higher towing spec.... pretty sure in the long run it would have been cheaper.
I just did as you; traded a new low mileage vehicle for a low mileage used vehicle capable of easily towing the TT I want.
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