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03-31-2015, 01:59 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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[QUOTE=Timber Wolf; I can't hardly see how they keep it in the can it is so good and getting into cracks. [/QUOTE]
Now THAT'S funny
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03-31-2015, 11:17 PM
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#22
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Member
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 47
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Bill,
On our '76 13' Scamp the spare tire bolts, three, were carriage bolts with a large washer on each side of the fiberglass with a nut on the exterior. Our showed sign of leaking, I am going to patch the holes and find another place to mount the spare. Either that or fiberglass a piece of plywood to the inside to take up the stress, just like they did for the dinette mount.
I was pretty surprised to find that the only structural support for the spare tie mount was two washers.
Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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04-01-2015, 09:37 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkatr1
Bill,
On our '76 13' Scamp the spare tire bolts, three, were carriage bolts with a large washer on each side of the fiberglass with a nut on the exterior. Our showed sign of leaking, I am going to patch the holes and find another place to mount the spare. Either that or fiberglass a piece of plywood to the inside to take up the stress, just like they did for the dinette mount.
I was pretty surprised to find that the only structural support for the spare tie mount was two washers.
Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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Bob, yesterday I rechecked my spare tire "mount" and found that I had been in error when I said that my Scamp's two bolts passed through a piece of plywood.
The bolts are below the piece of plywood. And, I believe are a point of water leakage.
I seem to remember people telling me that one nice thing about fibergalss pod/egg type travel trailers is that there is NO rotten wood to worry about!
Smile!
Bill
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04-06-2015, 03:57 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Nolen
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That is, like everything else in life, "for the most part".
My spare hangs on three bolts and almost touches the rear bumper (about 1/4 inch space there). Any bouncing that would happen seems to be limited by the bumper. I was concerned at first, but it made it over some seriously rough roads.
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04-06-2015, 05:31 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul O.
That is, like everything else in life, "for the most part".
My spare hangs on three bolts and almost touches the rear bumper (about 1/4 inch space there). Any bouncing that would happen seems to be limited by the bumper. I was concerned at first, but it made it over some seriously rough roads.
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Yeah, after all the assurances received here, I'm no longer concerned about the bolt spare tire mounting on my Scamp 13. When I go to 5-bolt tires then I'll have a adapter made.
The actual plywood rotting in my trailer is under the rood side window, and while I can see where water has been under the spare tire bolts, I now believe it came from a gap in the rear window seal.
If only the plywood floor in my Scamp had been encased in Fiberglass cloth and epoxy... life would be so much better!
Bill
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04-06-2015, 07:25 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,845
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The Scamp floor, at least on mine (2004), is made of 3/4 inch OSB board that they coat on both sides with the polyester resin which soaks into the material. It protects it pretty well, but it is not absolutely water tight, so if moisture persists, it will rot. Water can also penetrate where screws of bolts go through.
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04-17-2015, 03:47 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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I bought some PT Blaster, ansd sprayed the heck out of my two jacks. Then waited a few days...pulled sideways, and down they came!
A little rusty, but worked just fine!
[ATTACH]
[/ATTACH]
Now I have a new question! Of course I would!
Does anyone have a photo of the jack handle that came with these rear jacks?
It would seem that a handle with a slight bend at the end would work best.
I can make something, but would like to know what is normally used.
Bill
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04-17-2015, 04:33 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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The handle is a straight rod that fits through the holes. Without going out and measuring I would say it's about 5/8 in dia. In ten years and close to 10,000 nights camping I think I've used it 2 or 3 times. I could have not used it at all if would have positioned the trailer a bit differently.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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04-17-2015, 04:47 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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I have similar jacks on my trailer. No handle came with them. I just drop the tongue jack till the rear of the trailer is up in the air, then extend the jacks. I eyeball the height of each jack so that when they hit the ground the trailer will be as level as possible. Then I raise the tongue. till the trailer is level. The wheels should still be on the ground. If not repeat the process with the jacks shorter.
Repeat as necessary till the trailer is level, and the wheels are still on the ground.
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04-17-2015, 05:10 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Bill
Trailer: Had Scamp 13'.
Oklahoma
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
The handle is a straight rod that fits through the holes. Without going out and measuring I would say it's about 5/8 in dia. In ten years and close to 10,000 nights camping I think I've used it 2 or 3 times. I could have not used it at all if would have positioned the trailer a bit differently.
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Thanks Byron, that is what I needed to know.
Bill
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04-17-2015, 05:47 PM
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#31
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Member
Name: David
Trailer: 2008 OutBack 13ft., Camp Inn 560
Illinois
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55
My '86 is the same way with no apparent distress to the fiberglass.
That being said I need to change mine to accommodate the new 14" tire and 5 lug wheels.
I tink I will saw off the existing bolts after installing a large flat washer with gasket and sealer and then install new carriage bolts and large washers through the ply and rhino hide on the inside with large gasketed washers and elastic stop nuts on the outside.
I think I will have to use three long bolts for the five lug wheels and put them in higher to clear the bumper.
One change begets many more down stream.
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What is needed to be done to go to 14" 5 lug wheels on a Scamp?
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