More 120 volt outlets in the Burro - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:30 AM   #1
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Name: Duane
Trailer: 1978 Burro
Michigan
Posts: 94
More 120 volt outlets in the Burro

I recently cut in quite a few more outlets in my Burro. I took the old girl out this past winter to Arizona and stayed for 4 months. I learned quickly that the original 3 outlets were not in convient locations.

I bought a 10 pack of white outlets from the local Ace Hardware store. While installing # 4 or 5 the faceplate fell off right in my hands. I could see that they were put together but 4 tiny spots of glue between the front and back plastic sections of the outlet. I then looked closely at the other outlets and found that some of the others were coming apart too!

Well I thought for a second and decided I would not try and glue them back together or return them for another box of junk so I used my 140 watt soldering gun and melted the two halves of all of them together. I felt pretty comfortable with the "Made in the USA" on the box at first but now......... The third photo shows one of the outlet starting to separate.

10 for $4.99 seemed like a real good deal!

Just wanted to share this info with everyone.
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:50 AM   #2
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You get what you pay for. A good commercial grade ( which is what you should get ) will probably cost close to what you paid for that package of cheap ones. I see on the picture of the package that they were quick wire push in connections. Some home builders use them to cut costs but you have already cut costs by doing it your self so use that savings to get quality receptacles.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:35 PM   #3
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I bought some of the ones from Costco that also had the USB plugs. I know we go camping to get away from some of the busyness of life...but we aren't heathens!
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:42 PM   #4
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I see where they make night lights now with USB plugs.
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:09 AM   #5
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Was there any UL for Underwriters Laboratory on the package. Most electrical items have to pass rigorous testing by them.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:37 AM   #6
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Name: Duane
Trailer: 1978 Burro
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120 volt outlets made in the US

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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Was there any UL for Underwriters Laboratory on the package. Most electrical items have to pass rigorous testing by them.
Good point! Yep they are UL approved. They are also adequate for my application. The only trouble being the "engineer" who spec'd the bonding of the two halves of the outlets did a very poor job.

I just realized last night that I will have to notify CPSC about these.

CPSC Home | CPSC.gov
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:29 AM   #7
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Name: Daryl and Wendy
Trailer: 1973 Trillium 1300
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110v outlet boxes

The 110 electrical boxes in our 70's 13' Trillium are common residential metal junction boxes. The octagonal box above the sink / stove is badly corroded (I expect due to moisture from the stove?). I'm going to remove the octagonal box today as I'm replacing the 110v florescent with 12v led strip; but, I still need to replace the box as a junction box for the other two 110 lights on the kitchen bulkhead (one supply in and two leads out). Alternatively I could replace all three 110v lights with 12v and abandon the 110 supply in the cabinet.

My question is: is it common to use household residential electrical boxes for junction boxes, or is the a more elegant solution than a 2" deep metal box on the 'floor' if the kitchen cabinet? I was thinking something like a terminal block with a secure protective cover?
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Old 08-19-2016, 01:57 PM   #8
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Name: Duane
Trailer: 1978 Burro
Michigan
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Electrical junction boxes and main panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl and Wendy View Post
The 110 electrical boxes in our 70's 13' Trillium are common residential metal junction boxes. The octagonal box above the sink / stove is badly corroded (I expect due to moisture from the stove?). I'm going to remove the octagonal box today as I'm replacing the 110v florescent with 12v led strip; but, I still need to replace the box as a junction box for the other two 110 lights on the kitchen bulkhead (one supply in and two leads out). Alternatively I could replace all three 110v lights with 12v and abandon the 110 supply in the cabinet.

My question is: is it common to use household residential electrical boxes for junction boxes, or is the a more elegant solution than a 2" deep metal box on the 'floor' if the kitchen cabinet? I was thinking something like a terminal block with a secure protective cover?
I'm not sure exactly what you have going on. A photo would help a lot.

Those old metal junction boxes I try to avoid. They have to bonded to the bare wire when used and that's a pain. The junction boxes and main panel I'm putting into my Burro are below. Whenever I get the main panel installation complete I'll post it on our website.

Now I will be able to have my refrigerator, heater, microwave, and coffee maker all on their own circuit protected by their own breaker.

Carlon 1-Gang 14 cu. in. Old Work Box-B114RB - The Home Depot


https://www.amazon.com/GE-Industrial...words=tpl412cp

PS there are octagon (round) plastic boxes which will probably work for you if your old metal box is octagon. One thing to be aware of is the strength of the box needed for a particular installation. Like in hanging a ceiling fan where the box has to be spec'd for that weight.
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Old 08-20-2016, 11:51 AM   #9
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Name: Lionel
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300 pulled by a 2015 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuaneQ View Post
I'm not sure exactly what you have going on. A photo would help a lot.

Those old metal junction boxes I try to avoid. They have to bonded to the bare wire when used and that's a pain. The junction boxes and main panel I'm putting into my Burro are below. Whenever I get the main panel installation complete I'll post it on our website.

Now I will be able to have my refrigerator, heater, microwave, and coffee maker all on their own circuit protected by their own breaker.

Carlon 1-Gang 14 cu. in. Old Work Box-B114RB - The Home Depot


https://www.amazon.com/GE-Industrial...words=tpl412cp

PS there are octagon (round) plastic boxes which will probably work for you if your old metal box is octagon. One thing to be aware of is the strength of the box needed for a particular installation. Like in hanging a ceiling fan where the box has to be spec'd for that weight.
I am in the process of re-wiring our 76 Trillium and am wondering if you use standard house wire (14/2) for trailers or is there something specific to RVs.
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:27 AM   #10
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Name: Duane
Trailer: 1978 Burro
Michigan
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RV wiring

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Originally Posted by LionelAucoin View Post
I am in the process of re-wiring our 76 Trillium and am wondering if you use standard house wire (14/2) for trailers or is there something specific to RVs.
Don't know much about RV wiring but my Burro had romex just like a house does.

I am wiring mine with 14-2 since there are no heavy loads in my trailer and the length of the circuits is very short so voltage drop should be minimal.

If you have an AC unit or heater that does draw a lot of power you may have to use 12-2. I use one of these to check for current draw etc.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...ds=kill+a+watt

I will have some outlets which will have two circuits on them. You can break off the tab between the gold and silver screws and this will allow for it.


http://www.eluminary.org/en/QnA/Two_...ctrical_Wiring)

Watch for hot stuff , sharp stuff and movement of the wiring since it's solid conductor wire. Oh yeah make sure it's protected too.

Good luck and be slow, meticulous and careful.
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:25 PM   #11
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Name: Lionel
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300 pulled by a 2015 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuaneQ View Post
Don't know much about RV wiring but my Burro had romex just like a house does.

I am wiring mine with 14-2 since there are no heavy loads in my trailer and the length of the circuits is very short so voltage drop should be minimal.

If you have an AC unit or heater that does draw a lot of power you may have to use 12-2. I use one of these to check for current draw etc.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Elec...ds=kill+a+watt

I will have some outlets which will have two circuits on them. You can break off the tab between the gold and silver screws and this will allow for it.


http://www.eluminary.org/en/QnA/Two_...ctrical_Wiring)

Watch for hot stuff , sharp stuff and movement of the wiring since it's solid conductor wire. Oh yeah make sure it's protected too.

Good luck and be slow, meticulous and careful.
Thanks DuaneQ, I have wired houses before, but just wanted to make sure trailers followed the same rules. 😃

Even the new load centre says that it has room for 1 30amp and 5 20amp circuits. Not sure why it would specify 20amp as opposed to saying you can have 15 or 20 amp breakers. I won't have a heater or AC. In our kitchen at home I ran 20 Amp circuits to kitchen plugs because there is more chance of running multiple appliances, but I don't see this happening in the little trailer.

Anyways, that is my job for this weekend, installing the new load centre, re-wiring the 2 existing outlets (changing to GFCI) and adding 2 more inside and one outside.

Then I will move on to re-wiring all the 12 Volt circuits.

:-)
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