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Old 03-23-2016, 01:35 PM   #21
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Name: Steve
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Originally Posted by Martins HeirCon View Post
The trick is to avoid domestics over about 150k.


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I don' t do non domestics and in my opinion any vehicle that is 15 years old and has high mileage is on borrowed time. .Everyone has different comfort levels and that's why we bought a new truck before making our recent trip. Your opinion is as valid as mine only different.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:43 PM   #22
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Very true! Sorry, it wasn't my intention to argue with you on Courtney's thread.
Diff'rent Strokes!


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Old 03-26-2016, 07:15 PM   #23
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Hubs has talked me into keeping the commuter and getting an older TV. Scouring the interwebs for one...


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Old 03-26-2016, 08:50 PM   #24
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Our 2008 Ford Escape has done well, 2.3L 4CYL 5SPD manual.
The newer ones are even better.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:19 AM   #25
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Ford Explorer, Ford Escape, Mercury Mariner it's very easy to find these with towing packages factory installed, low millage (under 100,000) Sub $15,000. I got my Fully loaded 06 Mercury Mariner Premier V6 4X4 with only 60,000 miles on it for $11,995. Tows well decent millage plenty of room. Have you Considered ditching the Rogue they are pretty useless..
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Old 03-30-2016, 12:55 PM   #26
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
Ontario
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We tow with a double cab midsize pickup. The double cab gives the seating of a sedan with a smaller (5'x 5') bed for camping gear, grills, ect. It's also nice for hauling the occasional 2 x 4, or lawn mower, or making a run to the dump. Toyota Tacoma, Nissan Frontier, or the Honda Ridgeline will all tow most eggs out there. The cost is, of course, mpg. Expect 20 mpg at best and down to 15 mpg depending on the trailer. Most guys like driving a truck and used trucks are easy to find. Years ago a fellow said to me " once you have a truck you won't want anyhng else". So far he's been right. Good luck, Raz
Raz, how long is that canoe? My truck is a crew cab Colorado which looks to be about the same as yours. My canoe is 16.5ft and I was thinking it would fit better if I used just the front roof rack and the rear support on the bed rack. I'm worried with only 2 ft between roof supports it may be unstable.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:10 PM   #27
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You should not tie down the canoe using the cab rack and the bed rack. The bed moves independent of the cab. Bed can rotate in one direction while the cab it rotating the other. That will twist the canoe.
Both tie down points should be either on the cab or on the bed.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:31 PM   #28
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
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Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
You should not tie down the canoe using the cab rack and the bed rack. The bed moves independent of the cab. Bed can rotate in one direction while the cab it rotating the other. That will twist the canoe.
Both tie down points should be either on the cab or on the bed.
I has forgotten that, Glenn. Good advice. I am wondering what to do then. In the link below is my bed rack. There are only 4ft between racks given the 5ft bed. The canoe would stick out too far at the rear.

https://www.amazon.ca/MaxxHaul-70386...ds=truck++rack

the roof racks are even less far apart.

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Old 03-30-2016, 01:39 PM   #29
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Apologies to Courtney for hijacking her thread!
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:43 PM   #30
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I tie down a 16' canoe on the racks on my RAV4. I shift it forward so I have clearance to the trailer. This works fine with a single canoe, but I don't think I could tie down two canoes without smacking the trailer in a sharp turn.
You can see that my tie downs aren't that far apart.
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:20 PM   #31
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Raz, how long is that canoe? My truck is a crew cab Colorado which looks to be about the same as yours. My canoe is 16.5ft and I was thinking it would fit better if I used just the front roof rack and the rear support on the bed rack. I'm worried with only 2 ft between roof supports it may be unstable.
The canoe is 16'. The rack is a Thule. Very stable. The cross members are 30" apart. I center the canoe yoke between them. Hope that helps. Raz
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