Trillium Window Removal

[Spanke]

Originally Posted by jim in os

I have a trillium 5500. The grey flexible drip strips that slide into a metal strip over the top of the jalousie windows has become brittle and broken. They all need to be replaced. We have been unable to locate replacement strips. Is there a source for new ones or can something be modified to fit?

Here is one source that has the strips for at the top of the windows:

http://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome_...ProductID=4095

If you need other rubber window pieces you might also try:

Interstate RV Metal & Supply

The 009-097 fits at the top and the 009-289 fits between the individual glass panes.

Spanke

[BCDave]

Didn't see anyone respond to your query about a place where you can do your own sandblasting of your brake drums

U-Blast on the Langley by-pass is the place I use.

They have blasting cabinets and humongous compressors, choice of many blast media and charge by the hour. Excellent service

[jim in os]

Originally Posted by Spanke

Here is one source that has the strips for at the top of the windows:

Hehr Seal H110-108

If you need other rubber window pieces you might also try:

Interstate RV Metal & Supply

The 009-097 fits at the top and the 009-289 fits between the individual glass panes.

Spanke

Thank you Spanke You are a lifesaver. I didn't think I would ever find these things.
Thanks again
Jim

[Spanke]

Originally Posted by jim in os

Thank you Spanke You are a lifesaver. I didn't think I would ever find these things.
Thanks again
Jim

Glad I could help. Most of this stuff can be found in previous threads, but it can be hard to find. Good luck on your renovation!

Spanke

[Scot M]

I purchased a 1978 Trillium 4500 last year, and have found some spongy flooring in the front under the bunk and in the rear under the dinette/bed. I am planning on redoing the windows and belly band to ensure water tightness - before repairing the floor. When reinstalling new wood/plastic backing strips, what adhesive would you recommend? Great thread, thanks for all the detail.

[Randy Bishop]

Originally Posted by Scot M

I purchased a 1978 Trillium 4500 last year, and have found some spongy flooring in the front under the bunk and in the rear under the dinette/bed. I am planning on redoing the windows and belly band to ensure water tightness - before repairing the floor. When reinstalling new wood/plastic backing strips, what adhesive would you recommend? Great thread, thanks for all the detail.

I didn't use any glue on the first (2) I done but after rethinking things out I felt they needed to be glued into place to stop any future spider cracks as pointed out in the previous post...So I used a construction adhesive for exterior use..comes in a caulk tube..I've used it for years in the construction business and it sets up as hard as nails and should keep any cracks from accuring...I sanded the inside with 40 grit on a sander to make sure it would get good adhesion....Thats how I done the last (3) got one more Trillium to do....started the U-hauls now so it will have to wait.

[Scot M]

It would appear that my floor is softer than I realized. When repairing the floor, does the kitchenette (stove, refrigerator, sink) and vertical storage cabinet (furnace, convertor) need to be removed. I have a quote that includes removal/re-installation of the front bunk, kitchenette, cabinet and table benches. This amounts to almost a full gut of the trailer... Is this really necessary? I haven't come across posts about how flooring repairs have been performed.

There seems to be an endless knowledge base amongst the Trillium group here. Thanks very much for sharing. Scot

[freddo411]

Hi Scot,

I've done some floor replacements in my 4500. I don't have a blow by blow thread of the whole process, but you can see a few picts here:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post304352

I did NOT remove any major components specifically to repair the floor. (I did remove my guacho for other reasons). Removing major components in the 4500 would be inadvisable, as they are glassed to the walls.

Are you sure you need to replace the floor? Maybe just part of the floor as I did?

Originally Posted by Scot M

It would appear that my floor is softer than I realized. When repairing the floor, does the kitchenette (stove, refrigerator, sink) and vertical storage cabinet (furnace, convertor) need to be removed. I have a quote that includes removal/re-installation of the front bunk, kitchenette, cabinet and table benches. This amounts to almost a full gut of the trailer... Is this really necessary? I haven't come across posts about how flooring repairs have been performed.

[Randy Bishop]

I wouldn't advise removing any of the cabinets as stated above they are glassed into the walls and floor....The floor in all my 4500's and 1300's consist of the outer shell that wraps completely down and under the entire floor of the trailer...then theres a plywood layer laid down with the interior shell laid over that leaving the plywood sandwiched in-between the two pieces of the camper... .Are you sure the floor is rotten... in a couple of mine the floor was a little spongey but figured out that it was mostly the top layer of fiberglass not glued to the plywood thats in-between the layers..I screwed the fiberglass down with 1/2" stainless steel screws then glued down wood laminate flooring on all of mine...



In my previous post...The glue I was refurring to was for the wood pieces around the windows.....I just felt that if the wood around the windows were glued into place that would help prevent future spider cracks that form at the screws locations ...Hope this helps

[Scot M]

Thanks for replying Fred and Randy:

I really don't know if I have to replace the floor. The top layer of plywood under the gaucho/bunk on the door side is pretty easy to push my smallest nail set into (say 1/4 inch deep), approx 2 sq. ft. in area, and under the door dinette seat a smaller area is similarly soft. There appears to be an area of delamination (1/2 sq. ft.) between the interior fiberglass floor and the plywood subfloor just in front of the sink, and an adjoining crack in the glass extending about 14 inches parallel to the front of the sink and say 2 inches from the kitchenette wall.

All 8 bolts are visible and rusted, and there is no fiberglass covering any of the plywood under the gaucho/front bunk or the dinette seats.

While the prospect of having a new subfloor installed throughout the trailer, that is glassed over front, middle and rear sounds appealing, the logistics of removing and reconnecting the wiring, propane, and glassing in the cabinets to "as new" is really daunting and I'm concerned the contractor will get halfway thru and throw his hands up, or worse do a bad job of it all.

How structurally unsound (roadworthy) is it to leave the floor as it is? Or, better still, do selective openings thru the glass and inspect the plywood, and decide to repair as findings emerge.

Thank you both for your considered replies, Scot... apologies for the length.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Scot M

There appears to be an area of delamination (1/2 sq. ft.) between the interior fiberglass floor and the plywood subfloor just in front of the sink, and an adjoining crack in the glass extending about 14 inches parallel to the front of the sink and say 2 inches from the kitchenette wall.

Mine had the same crack, parallel and about 2" out. At first I thought it was a botched repair job, then I realized that the crack was probably a seam between the cabinet which is one piece and the floor. My thoughts were that the front and rear interior ends along with the lower portion of the closet were made as one piece with the floor. The other components were installed later. But I could be wrong.

[Randy Bishop]

Scot..
If the only area's you are concerned about are located under the front bench I would soak that area in Elmer's wood stablerizer..Let it dry then cover with wood laminate flooring as long as all future water leaks are taken care of I believe you will be fine..That stablizer is really something turns rotten wood as hard as nails..Here's a link on the product...

Elmers E760Q 16 Oz Rotted Wood Stabilizer For Sale At Toolking.com

I haven't had to use it on any of my Trilliumns but used it on my old Scamp I first bought years ago under the sink area where it was nearly impossible to repair.....Just a thought.....

[freddo411]

Your damage sounds just like mine.

I only replaced selective areas. Here's how:
* Decide where to replace. I did the areas around the frame bolts, if needed.
* I used a vibrating multitool to cut a square area out.
-- DO NOT CUT thru the bottom fiberglass
* If you cut to an edge, it become easier to pull up the board.

* I then cut a 3/8 plywood board to match the hole
* coated both sides in resin; let dry
* put in place, and did one layer of glass+resin over the patch plus a few surrounding inches.

* finally, redrill the bolt holes.

Originally Posted by Scot M

Thanks for replying Fred and Randy:

I really don't know if I have to replace the floor. The top layer of plywood under the gaucho/bunk on the door side is pretty easy to push my smallest nail set into (say 1/4 inch deep), approx 2 sq. ft. in area, and under the door dinette seat a smaller area is similarly soft. There appears to be an area of delamination (1/2 sq. ft.) between the interior fiberglass floor and the plywood subfloor just in front of the sink, and an adjoining crack in the glass extending about 14 inches parallel to the front of the sink and say 2 inches from the kitchenette wall.

All 8 bolts are visible and rusted, and there is no fiberglass covering any of the plywood under the gaucho/front bunk or the dinette seats.

While the prospect of having a new subfloor installed throughout the trailer, that is glassed over front, middle and rear sounds appealing, the logistics of removing and reconnecting the wiring, propane, and glassing in the cabinets to "as new" is really daunting and I'm concerned the contractor will get halfway thru and throw his hands up, or worse do a bad job of it all.

How structurally unsound (roadworthy) is it to leave the floor as it is? Or, better still, do selective openings thru the glass and inspect the plywood, and decide to repair as findings emerge.

Thank you both for your considered replies, Scot... apologies for the length.

[freddo411]

In summary: I recommend against a full up replacement.

[Doug2000]

Sub

[JRTrillium]

Is Butyl tape used on the exterior of the window around the edge of it? Is this the stuff I see that looks like caulking?

[David Tilston]

Butly tape is used on the exterior of the fibreglass, but under the flange of the window. You put it on the window before you put the window back on the trailer. It goes on the side of the flange that touches the trailer. As you tighten the screws that hold the window on, some should squish out. Trim that off with a plastic or wood implement, so you don't scratch the fibreglass.

[JRTrillium]

Thank you, again, Dave!!!! By the time we get to this we will be considered experienced with all the quesion I ask and your answers I am reading so much on this site and trying to decipher what will work for us.

What caulking sealant do you recommend? Not silicone, that I've read. We are just spot sealing areas to be sure of no leaks until we can finally get at it.

Another BIG question. I want to seal around the vent on the roof - just to give me peace of mind that it will not leak until we can really work on it. I am assuming you CAN NOT walk on the roof. A ladder is a must. Correct?

[David Tilston]

I use my daughters for any work on the roof. Even then it flexes quite a bit.

If all you want is a temporary sealant, Mono Ultra is what I use.

[JRTrillium]

Sorry, Dave, what did you mean by that?