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03-21-2013, 08:59 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Trailer: Cardinal (Restoring)
Posts: 245
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Enjoying watching your progress Luis. You will find alot of very helpful people on this site.
Keep the photos coming.
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03-22-2013, 05:09 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Name: Luis
Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
Posts: 115
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window corner question
Slav, here are some pics I managed to take for you todaday.
It looks like a "mold" i.e. backing sheet was placed on the outside of the body and all the FG work was done on the inside.
I also noticed the thickness achieved was shy of the original body thickness.
Hope this helps you with your need.
Regards,
Luis
Quote:
Originally Posted by slavandheather
Wow Luis, you're just jamming on this thing!
Question for you. When you built up the corners of the windows with fiberglass, are you building from both inside and outside, or do you mask off one side and only build from one side? I would think that one would need to do it from both sides to attain the most strength, but not sure if it is necessary. Thanks.
Slav
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03-22-2013, 05:45 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
Posts: 275
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Cool, thanks Luis. Have you tried tugging on this to see if it is totally solid or flimsy?
__________________
1978 Boler - work in progress...
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03-22-2013, 07:12 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,707
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Looks as strong as the surrounding area to me!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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03-26-2013, 02:04 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
Posts: 275
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Luis,
When you put down the flooring boards, did you treat the floor fiberglass with anything or just put them down? I liked how Robert Johans painted the inside of his Boler with the gray garage floor epoxy and I have been thinking of doing that also. But...I don't know if it is necessary and makes me wonder if, when it is applied to the walls before the insulation and wall covering, over time it would start peeling away along with the wall covering???
What do you think?
Also, will you be sealing the floor plywood with something before you apply whatever final flooring or will you leave it untreated? Thanks!
Slav
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03-26-2013, 03:28 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
Posts: 688
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Slav and Luis I was looking at the original FG repair forum that a Dave White started and he said he would post pictures on how to do it correctly but I never saw any further threads and that was a year ago. I have some left over FG when I ripped out the galley and overhead. Dave W said that he takes old pieces of FG and cuts them to shape and then glasses those "patches" over the holes instead of taking weaved cloth and doing the whole thing from scratch. This seems to make sense but never saw anymore answers. I was thinking about taping the patch up with aluminum foil on one side as others do and then glass the inside;remove the other side and then finish the outside with Bondo or FG fill (since I am going to paint over it anyway) Hope that makes sense? I am starting serious contact cement removal now around the areas I want to fill in [lots of holes and rivet holes I want to refill].
I am doing massive searches now on all types of FG spots to get some good ideas. I know there are a lot of repeat questions that the forum keeps repeating over the years but there are new Egg Owners (ME) coming on board all the time with questions. I liked the idea of painting the bottom half with Marine epoxy like Robert did on his thread. I dont see any downside and others are free to comment as I am not there yet.
Mike
__________________
Mike
K5NAN
"Miss Adventures"
If you Rest, You Rust
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03-26-2013, 04:27 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
Posts: 275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMike A
Slav and Luis I was looking at the original FG repair forum that a Dave White started and he said he would post pictures on how to do it correctly but I never saw any further threads and that was a year ago. I have some left over FG when I ripped out the galley and overhead. Dave W said that he takes old pieces of FG and cuts them to shape and then glasses those "patches" over the holes instead of taking weaved cloth and doing the whole thing from scratch. This seems to make sense but never saw anymore answers. I was thinking about taping the patch up with aluminum foil on one side as others do and then glass the inside;remove the other side and then finish the outside with Bondo or FG fill (since I am going to paint over it anyway) Hope that makes sense? I am starting serious contact cement removal now around the areas I want to fill in [lots of holes and rivet holes I want to refill].
I am doing massive searches now on all types of FG spots to get some good ideas. I know there are a lot of repeat questions that the forum keeps repeating over the years but there are new Egg Owners (ME) coming on board all the time with questions. I liked the idea of painting the bottom half with Marine epoxy like Robert did on his thread. I dont see any downside and others are free to comment as I am not there yet.
Mike
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Hi Mike,
I think it is sound thinking of using left-over FG to patch larger holes. That is what I'm planning on doing with the refrigerator and furnace vent holes. We had a big chunk of FG that was holding up the under-body water tank, so that makes it handy to re-purpose. I think certain places on the egg body are easier to just build up new FG than to patch with leftover...but that's been my experience so far.
I just looked at marine epoxy paints and they seem to be over $100 per gallon, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing! That seems way pricy.
You're right, it is hard to find answers to some "common" questions and we all end up asking them again. I'm trying to run our Boler resto thread as detailed as possible so others can benefit hopefully.
Slav
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03-26-2013, 07:45 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Trailer: Home Built
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMike A
Slav and Luis I was looking at the original FG repair forum that a Dave White started and he said he would post pictures on how to do it correctly but I never saw any further threads and that was a year ago. I have some left over FG when I ripped out the galley and overhead. Dave W said that he takes old pieces of FG and cuts them to shape and then glasses those "patches" over the holes instead of taking weaved cloth and doing the whole thing from scratch. This seems to make sense but never saw anymore answers. I was thinking about taping the patch up with aluminum foil on one side as others do and then glass the inside;remove the other side and then finish the outside with Bondo or FG fill (since I am going to paint over it anyway) Hope that makes sense? I am starting serious contact cement removal now around the areas I want to fill in [lots of holes and rivet holes I want to refill].
I am doing massive searches now on all types of FG spots to get some good ideas. I know there are a lot of repeat questions that the forum keeps repeating over the years but there are new Egg Owners (ME) coming on board all the time with questions. I liked the idea of painting the bottom half with Marine epoxy like Robert did on his thread. I dont see any downside and others are free to comment as I am not there yet.
Mike
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Here is some work we did...hope it helps
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ass-52498.html
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03-26-2013, 08:00 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
Posts: 688
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Thanks Dave! For some reason I had the first 4 pages of the link saved to PDF and then I must have had a BF and never saw page 5. I can only tell you that the information you presented on the forum in one place exceeds my expectations and I truly thank you for the info and the confidence to FG this Egg back to health.
Gracias
Mike
__________________
Mike
K5NAN
"Miss Adventures"
If you Rest, You Rust
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03-26-2013, 10:11 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Name: Luis
Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
Posts: 115
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FG repairs
GMike, Slav,
I have not been able to get FG'ing yet.
I am however aware of the challenged ahead. Smaller hole I think, mat and cloth alone. Bigger holes (freezer vents, etc) better to have FG additional material to fill the hole with.
I have a cut off from what it seems to be the window cover that can be used for supplemental material. Perhaps.
Slav as ofr floor prep, I am not thinking doing anything. My lan is to placea half inch layer of foam and then a half inch plywwod sheet. I will create structural strips so that the plywood is not resting on foam alone, because I think it iwll eventually colapse it under pressure.
My plan is to pait the final floor sheets in some epoxy based paint (as Johans) for neatness, but I do not really think there is much function involvedl
My challenge now is to finally nail down the appliances list so I can figure out piping,cabling, etc...I have to figure out how to lay down plywood and allow for all these.
It looks as this easter long weekend may be over 14 Celsius around here. time to work soome FG...
Cheers all,
L
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03-27-2013, 06:50 AM
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#71
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
Posts: 688
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Dave, Just one more stupid question to make sure I am on the same page with you. I will patch the two or more big vent areas with salvaged FG from my old galley. BUT for the outside restoration. How much of a gap would you leave around the perimeters? Do you then take some 220 or smaller grit and rough up that area without breaking the Gelcoat and then fill the ditch in with Bondo and then finish it out? The inside repair I can visualize but I want to do the outside correctly. It will be painted after all my FGing is done.
Hope that made sense
Mike
__________________
Mike
K5NAN
"Miss Adventures"
If you Rest, You Rust
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03-27-2013, 10:17 AM
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#72
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Senior Member
Trailer: Home Built
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMike A
Dave, Just one more stupid question to make sure I am on the same page with you. I will patch the two or more big vent areas with salvaged FG from my old galley. BUT for the outside restoration. How much of a gap would you leave around the perimeters? Do you then take some 220 or smaller grit and rough up that area without breaking the Gelcoat and then fill the ditch in with Bondo and then finish it out? The inside repair I can visualize but I want to do the outside correctly. It will be painted after all my FGing is done.
Hope that made sense
Mike
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No stupid questions.....you need to use a grinder or at least 80 grit to make a ditch around to patch from both sides when you can and never use bondo over seams...only use resin and mat, then grind or heavy sand, then bondo....never put anything over anything unsanded is the rule here. Don't try to save your gelcoat or anything else, as you will need to feather the patch beyond the small ditch anyway...So to recap, ditch both sides, (1 at a time of course) and resin and mat both sides, then heavy sand the areas for the filler. Done this way, your patch will be as strong or stronger than the original glass....oh, and don't forget the safety gear...Dave
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03-27-2013, 11:52 AM
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#73
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
Posts: 688
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But if I were to patch with resin and mat and then grind and feather it out smoothly would I even need Bondo? To me it would be ready to prime and paint. I've seen several threads about using Bondo but I think if I were to smooth out my resin correctly then putting Bondo over it would be superfluous. Also I have seen/read comments about some resins not curing until they are actually totally covered with wax or some other agent otherwise it stays in a tacky mode. You mention using a polyester resin and nothing else. Will that cure w/o being covered? Not sure I understand all of that yet and w/o wasting your time maybe there are some reference books I can bone up on. I am 99% there and aligned with you now after re-reading your original thread over and over.
__________________
Mike
K5NAN
"Miss Adventures"
If you Rest, You Rust
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03-27-2013, 12:28 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
Trailer: Home Built
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMike A
But if I were to patch with resin and mat and then grind and feather it out smoothly would I even need Bondo? To me it would be ready to prime and paint. I've seen several threads about using Bondo but I think if I were to smooth out my resin correctly then putting Bondo over it would be superfluous. Also I have seen/read comments about some resins not curing until they are actually totally covered with wax or some other agent otherwise it stays in a tacky mode. You mention using a polyester resin and nothing else. Will that cure w/o being covered? Not sure I understand all of that yet and w/o wasting your time maybe there are some reference books I can bone up on. I am 99% there and aligned with you now after re-reading your original thread over and over.
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I know this procedure sounds intimidating and you want to learn everything possible so you don't screw up your project. Everyone feels the same way...Just try it, the worst thing that can happen is that you grind out the repair and do it over...but if you do it right, your repair the first time will be as strong and long lasting as mine would be after 35 years of doing it...so here's some rules to live by designed for the first time user to do cheaply with pro results....
1. never apply anything over unsanded surface
2. Wear safety gear
3. Mix according to can instructions and work in well ventilated area
4. Never use cloth, use weave (strands hooked together randomly)
5. Bondo (filler) is necessary to fill imperfections from grinding and sanding
6. High build primer (polyester) is necessary to fill sand scratches from sanding bondo and to feather repair to adjoining areas.
Try the repair following these instructions while following the instructions on the can and you will be amazed...YOU CAN DO IT....as you do some of this, you can use some other procedures to refine the process, but start simply and gain experience...It's fun, rewarding to do yourself, and easy.
Trailer Dave
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05-05-2013, 05:09 PM
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#75
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Senior Member
Name: Luis
Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
Posts: 115
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FG repairs started
Mike, Dave, others....
Well, weather permiting and available time, finally.
Got started with FG sanding and am planning preping all the shell for paint job in short order.
Thanks all for tips on FG repair will post pictures of advance as I progress trough.
Cheers,
L
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05-05-2013, 05:24 PM
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#76
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Senior Member
Name: Luis
Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
Posts: 115
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Frame and Shell parted
Some pics of the shell on sleeper (!!) and the frame taken apart.
The frame is really clean, some design flaws i will try to fix before re installing, and am also planning to install the spare tier assembly where the water tank originally was, under the dinnete, outside the cabin.
Also I need to re install the axle under the springs and add a damper/shock absorber . No rust, paint is good.
As for the cabin underside, lots of scratches and dents from flying pebbles/ rocks. Think i Will make sure there are no leaks by clothing/matting affected areas and then apply a rubber (rhino lining) or similar to help protect the FG and bondo surfaces....
Cheers all,
L
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05-05-2013, 05:28 PM
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#77
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Senior Member
Name: Luis
Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
Posts: 115
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underside FG
Some pics of the FG in the leading edge and underside of cabin showing dents and damage (minor.)
Comparing to plywood floor models, this '79 Boler, with the fllor all in FG is a great deal...
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05-05-2013, 05:49 PM
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#78
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
Posts: 688
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Nice Pixs. I am 99.99% done with my fiberglassing now and I feel confident enough that I am going to get a bit creative but wont share what I am going to do yet. It will be unique to say the least thanks to Dave's support (may start a new trend).
__________________
Mike
K5NAN
"Miss Adventures"
If you Rest, You Rust
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05-06-2013, 12:25 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
Posts: 275
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Luis, good to see you continuing the project. You won't regret coating the underside...these things are old and it is worth going the extra mile to get them looking better than when new!
I just started working on ours again after a few-week break...
Cheers,
Slav
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05-20-2013, 10:15 PM
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#80
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Senior Member
Name: Luis
Trailer: Boler 1300 79'
Alberta
Posts: 115
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first FG repair
Well, I also managed to take time to work on the Boler, finally.
Patched a large hole in the side (former Dometic fridge exhaust) with a flat sheet of FG, and applied two layers of fiber mat on the inside.
The finishing on the outside is still pending.
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