Anybody ever looked at the bottom of their door? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-21-2017, 04:24 PM   #21
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Name: Marilyn
Trailer: 13 ft 2005 Scamp Deluxe; 2002 Subaru V6 Outback
Oregon
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I had a gap at bottom of my Scamp door; took it to RV repairs for new thick insulation. Not perfectly tight, but much better. Probably a do-it-yourself task?
Hope you get it fixed. Bees, insects, snakes, raccoon paws (yes, had one critter try my door handle!), draft, rain, road debris....not good.
Good luck.
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:09 PM   #22
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Name: Peter
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Originally Posted by Doggonehappy1 View Post
Sorry, i know the original pic IS a weird looking.

The grey material is my sweater as I crouch down beside the open door. My phone is on the ground shooting up toward the bottom of the door.

The issue is with the underside of the exterior door. The part of the door that is closet to the ground. There is a gap running the length of the bottom of the door. I would assume the front and back of the exterior door should meet and seal all the way around.

I am wondering if anyone else in the Fiberglass community has a gap like this at the bottom of their door.

I am attaching a pic of our camper if that helps.

I can post some more pics of the underside of the door in the morning when its light out.

-Beth
:so what your saying is the door does not fit the frame at the bottom that there is a 1/2 gap between the door bottom and the rest of the door, like the bottom where the rivets are is like it was worse and someone tried to clamp it together to get it tighter to so the inside meets the outside making it a tight fit, Is that what your saying?
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:28 PM   #23
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Name: George
Trailer: 2005 Escape 17
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Gap in Door

Not to sure what I am looking at in the photo, but from your description I would be concerned with the gap. A gap at the bottom of a door will allow road grime, dust and water into the trailer when traveling on wet or dusty roads. Insist that they fix the problem.
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:44 PM   #24
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Name: Beth
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Originally Posted by stude View Post
:so what your saying is the door does not fit the frame at the bottom that there is a 1/2 gap between the door bottom and the rest of the door, like the bottom where the rivets are is like it was worse and someone tried to clamp it together to get it tighter to so the inside meets the outside making it a tight fit, Is that what your saying?

Stude


I don't know about clamping, It looks like it was cut that way. but it appears the door is hollow and made up of 2 pieces of fiberglass, front and back of door with a window and door handles. One would think one would want to seal the pieces all around. I am trying to find out the reason for the large gap.
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Old 02-22-2017, 07:46 AM   #25
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Name: Duane
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I think you will have water on your floor if you tow in the rain. A gap that wide doesn't seem right to me. Many doors have fit problems but not 1/2" gaps from new. Ask other owners about their door gaps. I think you should act now while the warranty is in effect! The test for autos is to close the door or lid against a piece of newspaper and try to pull it out. It should tear if the seal is good.
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Old 02-22-2017, 07:52 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Sid View Post
Beth
I am on business travel this week so it will be a few days before I can look at my 2014 PL. I will let you know.....


Thank you
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Old 02-22-2017, 08:31 AM   #27
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16 1973 "Peanut"
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Our '73 amerigo has such a gap at the bottom of the door ...and I've been wondering why we never find water inside after towing even in torrential WA and OR rains, and why no bugs come in that way while the trailer is "resting."


Makes sense that whatever splashes up in just drains out or dries up...I guess. Have checked and checked and no water. Though when it's really wet out we track in a lot of moisture...


At night we can feel a little draft from under the door, and as daylight comes on in the AM we can see light there... so far no raccoons have attempted it. That'd be interesting!


Paul reglued our old door weatherstripping with the intention eventually to put in all new; maybe "fluffier" new will seal more of that crack...when we get to it. Which won't be soon.


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Old 02-22-2017, 08:42 AM   #28
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Name: Beth
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Thumbs up

Clarification: The gap is in the door its self, not between the camper and the door.

Thank you all for all your input!
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Old 02-22-2017, 08:56 AM   #29
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Name: Kathleen (Kai: ai as in wait)
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AHA! Clarification noted! Several posts mentioned a gap "AT" the bottom of the door, but I didn't catch "IN" the bottom of the door.


Ours is AT the bottom, a fit problem, it seems now. Still, possibly new weatherstripping will help eventually.


A gap IN the door--would make for good drainage, but is it really supposed to? Good question.


Thanks for clarification.


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Old 02-22-2017, 09:26 AM   #30
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That is odd, but I guess you've got to trust Parkliner when it comes to that. I think with something so glaring, if it were a mistake, they couldn't really get away with just saying "uh, yeah, it's meant to be that way...yeah..".

The photo did take a while to figure out, but I got it now. And yes, that's a gap between the fiberglass layers of the door, not a gap between the door and the frame. Weird, but I'm not an engineer...
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:24 PM   #31
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...my 2cents...contact Parkliner ASAP and find out from them what is normal...to me, it looks like to outer door panel was either cut too short or the bottom trim failed to cover it or some combination of both.....
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Old 02-22-2017, 01:31 PM   #32
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[QUOTE=madjack;628354]...my 2cents...contact Parkliner ASAP

according to post #1 they did contact Parkliner
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Old 02-22-2017, 03:34 PM   #33
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Name: dave
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Doesn't look right

You can see what appears to be the rough unfinished edge of the fiberglass. I don't think that, if this is a drain, it is up to what we would like to think are Parkliner standards. Especially since you mentioned someone with the same model ( a couple years older) doesn't have that ugly gap. The new Parkliner door is completely different. Tom or one of the designers owes you a better answer. Be persistent. With the completely new and different Parkliner being rolled out at the same time as a new dealer based sales plan I sure hope they get it all right especially if they wish to compete with Oliver or the upcoming Airstream FRV.
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Old 02-23-2017, 06:52 PM   #34
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Beth,
I just returned from a bit of business travel in San Francisco and as promised I took a peek at our 2014 Parkliner. I did find the gap at the bottom of the door where the inner and outer door shells meet. Mine has the exposed edges ground smooth and the gap is quite consistent at 3/16 in width.
Since the entire camper is surrounded by a French Drain system to prevent any moisture that ever does happen to run down the wall from contacting the floor my belief is that this is also the intent of the gap. In fact if you search this site with the term "heavy door" you will see how common a waterlogged door can be.
My advice would run counter to what some have said here. Do NOT seal the gap. If you live where mud dobbers are an issue you may want to adheare a screen in or over the opening.
BTW in the three years we have owned and camped in ours we have never had a problem with water or road grime getting past our door. For that reason I'm leaving well enough alone but will monitor it.
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Old 02-23-2017, 08:30 PM   #35
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In our case, it was a gap between the door sill and vinyl sweep that was evident.
You could see daylight from the inside.
The ends of that sweep were too long, had to be trimmed back. and it had torn out of one pop rivet.
wc
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Old 02-26-2017, 12:28 PM   #36
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Thank you to everyone who replied to my query. Tom at Parkliner went to the trouble of talking to Chandler, the designer and founding owner of Parkliner trailers, as well and tracking down his own Parkliner in storage and examining the door. The consensus is the space we found at the bottom of the door is common but if we want to fill it in, be sure to create one or two drain holes.
We plan to fashion some styrofoam to do just that as our space seems to be fairly wide and we don't want dirt and moisture getting up in the door and messing with the door handle mechanisms.
Thanks again for all the advice!
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Old 02-26-2017, 05:08 PM   #37
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If that gap was on purpose for drainage, I wonder where and water would get in?
The top and sides of the door are sealed, and the window should be too.
I can't imagine splash from the tires getting far enough up in there to affect anything. But damp air could get inside and condense in cold weather.
Seem to me it would be better to be sealed all around.
Anyway, I just went out and took pics of ours. I don't see a gap. There is a black strip with the pop rivets that hold the sweep.
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:14 AM   #38
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Name: Leslie
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Parkliner Door Gap

Mine is not here now so i can't get a picture. But I have the same gaps on either end of the door. I have been meaning to put some stick-on foam insulation in those two spots. They haven't caused any trouble for me. It seems the curve of the door at the two ends is just a little too deep.
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