Solar install on new 16' Scamp - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-18-2018, 05:16 PM   #1
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Scamp
South Carolina
Posts: 39
Solar install on new 16' Scamp

Picked up our Scamp back in November and since then have been trying to decide the best way to install solar on a 16'. Main goal was simply to provide enough power to keep the single battery topped off while boon docking. All the bulbs are LED so between those, the Maxx Air Fan, and water pump I figured 100w panel would do the trick.
I decided against installing on the roof for a number of reasons but mainly due to the fact that if we parked in the shade (which we prefer) I still wanted to capture as much sun as possible. Quick list of what I purchased.
-100w Renogy folding mono panels WITHOUT charge controller. By purchasing the charge controller separately I was able to install in inside out of the weather.
-30' MC4 cables
-Renogy Adventurer 30a charge controller
-2 dual entry cable glands (waterproof exit for charge cables and cables running to the battery.

I installed the charge controller to the right of the entrance over the top cabinet door. Ran all cables down the far forward right side and drilled 4 holes in two pairs for all cables to exit Scamp. Avoiding the idea of drilling in the fiberglass shell I opted instead for the floor as it was better protected and easier to seal. I then mounted short MC4 cables to the battery box in a permanent fashion. This allows for easy plug in of the 30' cables to run to the solar panel.

All in all a pretty straight forward and simple install. Performance is great even in partial shade. No items are visible when the solar panel is not in use so it is a very clean set up.
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:55 PM   #2
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Name: Tony
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 198
Smart to put your controller as near the battery(s) as possible, the panel will overcome electrical line loss but the controller won't.
We have a 100 watt panel roof mounted and it powers the morning 110v coffee maker, my old power hungry computer, a roof vent fan and lots of late night reading as well as the water pump. We have lived in our Boler for two winters now and seldom plug in.
You can safely add an inverter especially if you upgrade the battery to a pair of golf cart 6v batts.
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:39 AM   #3
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Name: John
Trailer: 2000 16ft Scamp
Minnesota
Posts: 189
Amazing

Good work on all your details! I have been considering a similar install. Can I inquire about the cost for all the pieces?
John
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Old 04-20-2018, 08:15 AM   #4
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Name: Tony
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 198
The 100W panel about $140 USD.
brought the wires down through the air vent for the tank. fished them out behind the fridge to save a roof hole, then plugged the hole.s
Controller very inexpensive but I do not like it so have not installed one.
Batteries Trojan T105's About $100 each with cores.
Cobra inverter with remote around $120 (I think)
Various wires connections and fuses perhaps $50.
LED bulbs for all interior and one exterier about $30.
Note;
Am a pretty careful shopper, so look for good deals on things
If you do not install a controller, you must monitor the batteries, in the case of a 100W panel it's 5 amp output will not harm the golf cart batteries, disconnect the panel while not using it when you park the trailer. My batteries use very little water so they are not being stressed.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:58 AM   #5
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp
Idaho
Posts: 223
Registry
No Controller?

Tony,
Have you used this set up much? An unregulated 100 watt panel can produce over 22 volts, and this seems like a bad idea for a 12V battery system.

Gordon
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:04 PM   #6
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Name: Tony
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 198
As long as your batteries are adequate, and securely wired to the panels, there is no problem. The batteries will take every thing over the voltage needed to charge as amps.
The batteries are very good voltage regulators. The risk would be that if the batteries should be disconnected from the panels and trailer (loose wire or blown fuse) the trailer could be over volted, such things as circuit boards on furnaces, radios & fridges could be damaged.
Charging systems need a regulator and if you know what you are doing you can do the job yourself.
HISTORY:
In the 1980's built 600 wind turbines for marine battery charging, controllers were 20
virtually non existant and were very expensive, if you could find someone to build you one. for 4 years we lived with one charging 2 8D batts, my turbines were capable of putting out 20 amps at 16 volts. We, nor any of our customers (to my knowledge) ever had a problem with over cooking batteries or any other component.
When we first started rving went for several years with no regulator, then because we had over 600 amps panels and controllers had become less expensive we installed a couple on our coach. We put one on our Toyota Sunrader, and will put one on the Boler
when we get around to it. Bought one but don't like it so next fall will pick up a better one and install it as we travel.
So my experience with battery charging dates back to 1981, and have never had a problem with using or not using a controller. If you are not prepared to be the controller install one. You asked.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:29 PM   #7
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp
Idaho
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Thanks, Tony...

It sounds like you know what you're talking about, although it contradicts what we read about battery charging on RV forums and dealer websites. I appreciate your knowledge and your response (but I'm keeping my controller ).

Thanks,
Gordon
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:34 PM   #8
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Name: Tony
Trailer: Boler
BC
Posts: 198
It is all rather elementary remember that rv parts dealers need to make sales, as noted I tend to install controllers but am not afraid of doing without.
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:59 AM   #9
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,209
you guys

you guys are fantastic tinkers and workers waaaay too much work for me I want to trout fish!!

bob
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Old 04-22-2018, 12:59 PM   #10
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Scamp
South Carolina
Posts: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by crowwing View Post
Good work on all your details! I have been considering a similar install. Can I inquire about the cost for all the pieces?
John

Total cost was about $400 the way I did it. You could easily go cheaper but I wanted to make sure the charge controller was installed inside and was capable of having additional panels attached down the road.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:41 PM   #11
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Name: Ray
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 16 Deluxe
Missouri
Posts: 692
IIRC, depending on whether your solar panels have diodes installed (some do; some don’t), one of the functions of a charge controller is to keep your battery from discharging through the solar panel at night.

Solar charge controllers are fairly inexpensive at Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, etc.

To protect your battery from overcharging and/or discharging at night,
I personally would use at least an inexpensive one. (The higher dollar MPPT controllers probably aren’t needed for most purposes.)

Good luck!

Ray
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