|
|
05-24-2016, 04:57 AM
|
#41
|
Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
|
Franswa is correct. People fuss about wire size. Most of the solar installations seen here are 5 amps or less (100 watts). Fourteen to 16 gauge wire is usually all that's needed. For a voltage drop to occur you need two resistors in series, typically called a voltage divider. That only occurs between the panel and the controller. The connection between the controller and the battery is a multi source circuit. There, the voltage drop is the difference between the two sources just like any charge line. Raz
|
|
|
05-24-2016, 08:35 AM
|
#42
|
Senior Member
Name: Francois
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,163
|
5 amp...
this is a good illustration (pic)...I thought I would be OPTIMISTIC and figure 6 amps on a PERFECT day for my rooftop panels....14 feet translates into #14 wire....just because I didn't want to do the work again if in the future I upped the capacity on my roof...I used #12 (guilty as charged, twice, for using too large a wire ).....for my deployable panel (single 40W panel, 3 amps MAX, max length 20 feet) I used #14.....
12 and 14 is pretty small wire compared to what I often see around here...just sayin'...
|
|
|
05-24-2016, 09:05 AM
|
#43
|
Senior Member
Name: Gilles
Trailer: Bigfoot 25B21RB, 2004
Quebec
Posts: 693
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa
this is a good illustration (pic)...I thought I would be OPTIMISTIC and figure 6 amps on a PERFECT day for my rooftop panels....14 feet translates into #14 wire....just because I didn't want to do the work again if in the future I upped the capacity on my roof...I used #12 (guilty as charged, twice, for using too large a wire ).....for my deployable panel (single 40W panel, 3 amps MAX, max length 20 feet) I used #14.....
12 and 14 is pretty small wire compared to what I often see around here...just sayin'...
|
I ordered a kit with the wire length necessary and with it they provided #10 of the panel to the controller and the controller to the battery. All fit exactly.
This way I can add two other panels without changing the wire.
I thought it was O.K. ..
I used 7 days last week on a site without service and everything worked well.
The price for this kit was a little bit lower, they had a special.
__________________
Gilles
Bigfoot 25B21RB.
Towed with Dodge RAM 1500 Echo-Diesel, 3.0 L., 8 speeds.
|
|
|
05-24-2016, 10:12 AM
|
#44
|
Senior Member
Name: Francois
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,163
|
more than ok....
that's a good deal from where I'm sitting.....I pieced my system together (started small and added, improved along the way) and spent quite a bit more than that for about the same capacity......all inclusive, name brand quality....all wire AND the fancy brackets ??? sheeesh !
I'd say you did REALLY well on that purchase.
|
|
|
11-09-2016, 07:15 PM
|
#45
|
Member
Name: Dan
Trailer: SOLD - Lil Snoozy 2014
East Tennessee
Posts: 84
|
As author of this thread, I would like to report this solar system functions as I had hoped it would.
I can now depart from home with a fully charged batteries, travel all day running the 110VAC/12Volt Truck Refrigerator, stop for the day at a non-electrical campsite with a fully charge battery and the refrigerator temperature between 37-44 degrees. Run the Truck Fridge all night along with LED lighting and the water pump with a battery level between 12.3 Volts to 12.4 Volts (70-80% Charged) come morning. Then do it all over again if needed until we reach our destination.
Haven't tried staying in place more than a day just relying on the battery yet but feel it could be done with enough available sunlight.
|
|
|
04-02-2017, 05:07 AM
|
#46
|
Junior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: Compact Jr
Florida
Posts: 8
|
Flexible Solar Panels
I am considering a Lil Snoozy camper for it's flat unobstructed roof line so I can install flat flexible solar panels. Can anyone tell me what the actual full length of the LS roof is? That would run from the rear of the trailer roof all the way down to the leading front edge. Measured with a flexible tape.
The same for the actual width of the roof between what looks like a slight ridge along the sides of the roof.
Thanks,
Tom
|
|
|
04-02-2017, 06:48 AM
|
#47
|
Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,049
|
Dan, that's a well done solar design. Where did you get the battery box? What brand is it? Thanks!
|
|
|
04-18-2017, 05:14 AM
|
#48
|
Member
Name: Dan
Trailer: SOLD - Lil Snoozy 2014
East Tennessee
Posts: 84
|
Battery Box
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Michigan
Dan, that's a well done solar design. Where did you get the battery box? What brand is it? Thanks!
|
Thanks,
It's a NOCO HM426 Dual 6-Volt Commercial Grade Battery Box
I got it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAUG5A...EOQGW3W1&psc=1
|
|
|
04-23-2017, 10:24 PM
|
#49
|
Senior Member
Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 462
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy Boy
I am considering a Lil Snoozy camper for it's flat unobstructed roof line so I can install flat flexible solar panels. Can anyone tell me what the actual full length of the LS roof is? That would run from the rear of the trailer roof all the way down to the leading front edge. Measured with a flexible tape.
The same for the actual width of the roof between what looks like a slight ridge along the sides of the roof.
Thanks,
Tom
|
I'd lean towards the solid panels with brackets that raise them slightly above the roof for permanent rooftop installation. The flexible ones mounted directly on the roof apparently have issues with heat buildup and subsequent damage after a few months to a year or two.
|
|
|
04-24-2017, 03:47 AM
|
#50
|
Junior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: Compact Jr
Florida
Posts: 8
|
Thank you for your response
|
|
|
01-27-2021, 11:18 PM
|
#51
|
Junior Member
Name: Chuck
Trailer: Snoozy II
California
Posts: 6
|
Brilliant ideas!
|
|
|
01-28-2021, 01:41 PM
|
#52
|
Senior Member
Name: Charlie
Trailer: 2014 Lil Snoozy
North Carolina
Posts: 789
|
Dan did great job on this. If you run a #8 fused wire from the tow battery to the camper batteries via a Anderson connector at the bumper it will negate a solo panel for this application. Mine will recharge the duel 6 volts in 30-40 minutes. I rarely use it as my batteries will run the lights and Truckfridge for at least three days. I would only consider a solar panel for extended boondocking.
|
|
|
03-07-2021, 11:09 AM
|
#53
|
Senior Member
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 338
|
It’s wonderful that you all know how to do this stuff. Are there simple instructions? I have a 13ft. Scamp and have thought about putting a solar panel on a piece of plywood and putting that on the roof of my old Volvo XC-70 but then, what’s next? Is there a “a + b + c“ type of way to use the sun to run my lights, refrigerator if I am where I can’t hook up? I’m able to follow simple instructions or am I going to have to go some place and hire someone?
|
|
|
03-07-2021, 04:30 PM
|
#54
|
Senior Member
Name: Ray
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 16 Deluxe
Missouri
Posts: 692
|
Mary Jo,
Often, people seem to make solar harder than it really needs to be.
We only use solar when we really need it and, since we use minimum overnight 12v amps (i.e. LED lights, charging phones/tablets, and running the top-mounted fan) a 35 watt panel is often enough for us.
If you look at the following thread, you will find pix of our solar setup:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...e-91674-2.html
Good luck with yours!
Ray
|
|
|
03-08-2021, 08:34 AM
|
#55
|
Senior Member
Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
Massachusetts
Posts: 338
|
solar
thank you for your reply, I printed your picture of the solar panel on your Scamp. Did you attach it directly to your battery terminals? and you mentioned the ammeter? would you send pictures of any additional components you attached to your system? So far I haven’t blown anything or electrocuted myself altho I have had some “experiences.”. I like to learn and be independent and save $$, so any information is very welcome. thanks again, MJo
|
|
|
03-08-2021, 09:21 AM
|
#56
|
Senior Member
Name: Ray
Trailer: 2017 Scamp 16 Deluxe
Missouri
Posts: 692
|
The solar panel is connected to a small solar charge controller (Northern Tool/Harbor Freight) and the output of the solar charge controller is connected directly to the battery terminals. In the pix, the solar charge controller is/was wrapped in plastic to protect it from rain (I will eventually come up with a better rain-proof solution).
The purpose of a solar charge controller is to both prevent overcharging (boiling) your battery and/or to prevent discharging your battery at night back through the solar panel (if the solar panel does not include an anti-discharge diode).
I don't use an ammeter but I do use a small cigarette-lighter-style voltage meter
that is similar to what is mentioned in this thread:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ad.php?t=95019
Ray
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|