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Old 03-18-2019, 01:09 AM   #21
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Name: Jeff
Trailer: Shopping
California
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Whatever you do, DO NOT put bait traps inside the RV. Friend of mine did this and spent half the summer tearing the walls apart. Took about 6 months for the smell to go away. Use traps, not sticky, those are just cruel, Reese's Pieces or bacon, Canadian I think works best. Bleach to get rid of the pee smell.

Also there is no such thing as "a singular mouse", they travel in packs, like a little motorcycle gang. Once they get inside others will follow the scent and get in. I used pest block expanding foam, available just about everywhere.
Good luck....
Jeff
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Old 03-20-2019, 06:04 AM   #22
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Never use the kind of steel wool that rust. Instead you should use stainless steel pot scrubbers. Those will last through the years and also fill up the cracks.
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:10 AM   #23
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Of course you cannot prove a negative, but I have not had a critter problem since I started placing cloth bags with moth balls (the stinky, original kind) in the outside storage of the Scamp and the engine compartment of my truck and car. They do evaporate over time, so a few need to be added every 6 months to a year.
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:27 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
Of course you cannot prove a negative, but I have not had a critter problem since I started ....
I too have not had any problem with mice or other critters.. and I do nothing other than remove food when not in use for extended periods of time. I will say that the trailer is buttoned up pretty tight... no holes to speak of, not even mouse-sized.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:21 AM   #25
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I too have not had any problem with mice or other critters.. and I do nothing other than remove food when not in use for extended periods of time. I will say that the trailer is buttoned up pretty tight... no holes to speak of, not even mouse-sized.
Glad you brought up the idea of not leaving any critter food around. Even a whiff of it will attract them. Years ago I found that storing grass seed in a tight metal container was the answer to the mouse problem in our garage.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:38 AM   #26
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Yeah, a few years back I had to switch from a Rubbermaid tote to a galvanized metal can to store my bird seed. They chewed right through the handle of the tote and got in somehow.
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Old 11-16-2019, 12:03 AM   #27
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Irish spring

[QUOTE=Grady C;736084]Please don’t use Irish Spring soap as your rat protection for your trailer. Does not work!! You to youtube , look it up under Irish Spring soap for mice.


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Old 11-16-2019, 12:58 AM   #28
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[QUOTE=AC0GV;760795]
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Originally Posted by Grady C View Post
Please don’t use Irish Spring soap as your rat protection for your trailer. Does not work!! You to youtube , look it up under Irish Spring soap for mice.



Ya, but what if you wrap the soap in dryer sheets?
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Old 11-16-2019, 03:30 AM   #29
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I can hardly stand to walk into the detergent aisle at the stores.


But you know how it is, I get hungry so despite the strong smell I still go into the store to get food.
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Old 11-30-2019, 01:33 PM   #30
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Have had the rodent run around in engine compartment. some wiring insulation is made with soy? "ring the dinner bell"
YouTube and you will find that rodents hate peppermint. 40 drops of peppermint oil in a 16oz spray bottle of water, spray where they have been it will last a couple of months.
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:35 AM   #31
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Name: Dave
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Iowa
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If you don’t want to put bait on a mousetrap inside your garage, consider the fact that mice are probably accessing your garage mostly at the corners of the overhead door(s). I have a couple old three hole building bricks with a heavy string Tied off on them set outside of the door. The other end is tied off to a small hole drilled through the corner of the trap. Channel the access to the garage with the brick, guiding access with the trap. When you catch the mouse the string and brick prevents cats or other roaming varmints from dragging your rig away
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Old 12-03-2019, 10:47 PM   #32
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Name: Shangie
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Washington
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We stuffed every hole with stainless steel scrubbers and cooper mesh along with pest block foam. We then leave cotton balls doused in peppermint oil inside several open plastic sandwich bags strewn about the RV, especially where there are access points including the drivers and passengers side air vents. We then throw mothballs underneath the exterior. This ended a one time intrusion problem we experienced when we moved our RV from a concrete storage facility to a field.
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Old 04-06-2021, 06:32 AM   #33
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Name: Mary Jo
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Massachusetts
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Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
I did away with the small factory installed shore power hatch that had the little slider for allowing the shore power cord to protrude when deployed. I installed a Marine style twist-Lock removable end on my cord, and now just plug it in and unplug it to leave. No more "mouse door." I also installed a larger hatch in place of that small useless one which you couldn't do anything with, except fight with your power cord all the time. I have a lot more access for additional storage now that was just wasted space behind the converter before because you couldn't get to it.
that looks great, can you be more specific and show what you did and how you did it? also, where did you find the parts you used? thanks in advance for the info. I have mice, I’m trying the victor M751K repellent and also the M914 diposable mouse bait, but I would prefer keeping them out. thanks. MJo
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Old 04-06-2021, 06:57 AM   #34
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I copied this from the Casita Forum, where I posted it several years ago. It was the original write up of my "mod" back when I installed it.

September 28, 2016
Shortly after I purchased my trailer years ago, I also soon tired of fighting with the shore power cord in that tiny locker door. Since I used to do a lot of work on boats, I couldn't understand why the RV industry had to make life difficult, and not also adopt the power hook-ups which have been successfully used on boats for many years. It works well, even in a harsh salt-water marine environment, so I saw no reason not to adapt it to my trailer. I "cut the cord" [no pun intended] and installed a Marinco 30 Amp shore power outlet in the side of the trailer and installed a marine twist-lock female fitting onto the cut end of the remaining length of the cord to plug it into the new outlet. Now I just unplug it and roll it up. I never have to fight with it getting stuck on anything inside the trailer.



Several years later I decided to further upgrade my incoming power supply by protecting it with a Progressive Industries surge protector. I didn't want to use a portable one that plugs into the power pedestal before the shore power cord due to the fact that portable ones tend to grow legs when you're not around. Mine is safely embedded within a locked compartment where I hard wired it into the line before the converter. I also installed a larger access door in place of the tiny electrical locker door, so now I not only don't have to worry about insect/rodent intrusion through the cut-out on the old hatch since it seals up tight, but I also have a little more storage room now as well.

https://amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco...UYZQC?dchild=1

https://www.camperid.com/jr-products...n-ze102-a.html

https://www.bestconverter.com/EMS-HW...lay_p_511.html
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New Electrical Hatch1.JPG   New Electrical Hatch3.JPG  

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Old 04-06-2021, 08:54 AM   #35
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Name: bill
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Like any specialized RV part, you can either spend time and money visiting every RV store in your area and you “might” find it, or you can buy it on Amazon and have it tomorrow.

I stopped wasting my time chasing down parts locally. As far as supporting “ local” businesses, the choices here are Walmart or Camping World. Myself, buying from Amazon is the winner.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:42 AM   #36
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Name: Mary Jo
Trailer: 2020 Scamp w/2004 Volvo XC-70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
I copied this from the Casita Forum, where I posted it several years ago. It was the original write up of my "mod" back when I installed it.

September 28, 2016
Shortly after I purchased my trailer years ago, I also soon tired of fighting with the shore power cord in that tiny locker door. Since I used to do a lot of work on boats, I couldn't understand why the RV industry had to make life difficult, and not also adopt the power hook-ups which have been successfully used on boats for many years. It works well, even in a harsh salt-water marine environment, so I saw no reason not to adapt it to my trailer. I "cut the cord" [no pun intended] and installed a Marinco 30 Amp shore power outlet in the side of the trailer and installed a marine twist-lock female fitting onto the cut end of the remaining length of the cord to plug it into the new outlet. Now I just unplug it and roll it up. I never have to fight with it getting stuck on anything inside the trailer.



Several years later I decided to further upgrade my incoming power supply by protecting it with a Progressive Industries surge protector. I didn't want to use a portable one that plugs into the power pedestal before the shore power cord due to the fact that portable ones tend to grow legs when you're not around. Mine is safely embedded within a locked compartment where I hard wired it into the line before the converter. I also installed a larger access door in place of the tiny electrical locker door, so now I not only don't have to worry about insect/rodent intrusion through the cut-out on the old hatch since it seals up tight, but I also have a little more storage room now as well.

https://amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco...UYZQC?dchild=1

https://www.camperid.com/jr-products...n-ze102-a.html

https://www.bestconverter.com/EMS-HW...lay_p_511.html
I looked on the Marinco website and couldnt find the outlet Marinco 30 Amp shore power outlet you described, since I’m not an electrician so I don’t want to improvise, could you tell me part no.s of the outlet? thanks, MJo
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Old 04-06-2021, 10:21 AM   #37
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Trailer: 2017 Scamp 16 Deluxe
Missouri
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https://capitaloneshopping.com/p/mar...cha/M9ZCMQKZJM

or

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mar...UYZQC?dchild=1

Regards,

Ray
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Old 04-06-2021, 10:29 AM   #38
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The mouse house

Quote:
Originally Posted by rck54789 View Post
Other than that point I am at a total loss as to where the little pest is getting in.
Have anybody else had this issue and how did you solve the problem.
TYIA
Rick
I thought that I posted in this last year but can not find it so here we go.
The marine connecter is great, I also saved the mouse hole for ham radio coax but plug it with a scotch brite pad. search Furrion FCKIT 30-PS Kit
Attached Thumbnails
SCOTCHBRITE.jpg   36 power a.jpg  

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Old 04-06-2021, 08:00 PM   #39
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Name: Stu
Trailer: 2003 21RB Bigfoot
Coos Bay, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
Do you keep your trailer plugged in to shore power? If so, do you have one of those power cord hatches with the little sliding door which opens when the cord is in use? That would definitely be one thing I would check for as a point of entry, if you have one of those access covers with the cord slot. Critters and ants use the shore power cord as a boarding ramp and often enter through that cord hole.
I think that's how I got infested last fall. I used tinfoil to seal it. I trapped 5 out of the trailer that night
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Old 04-06-2021, 08:12 PM   #40
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Name: Stu
Trailer: 2003 21RB Bigfoot
Coos Bay, Oregon
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I've also had issues with rodents moving into my truck when parked in the woods for several days. I got these and so far so good:



https://www.amazon.com/Loraffe-Repel...PMAK95VDENSBSP
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