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Old 04-30-2017, 11:48 AM   #41
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Name: Grant
Trailer: Boler
Ontario
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I saw that in your thread and immediately went to HD in hopes I could find what I wanted, but they didn't have the right thickness. I'm heading to Canadian tire today and will post the results.
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:46 PM   #42
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Ontario
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Here is the edging suggested by Ian Giles. It's chrome molding for cars/trucks that comes with 3m tape to be taped onto the edge. I think it looks pretty awesome and even comes in different thicknesses (this is 3/4)
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:37 PM   #43
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Ian always has good ideas! Looks really nice, makes me want to redo my table...
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:14 PM   #44
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Thanks Jay, It was pretty simple. Just be careful with using veneered wood. The circular saw I used left some pretty nasty chips on the back side. It was a brand new blade, but veneer is pretty easy to chip. If I were to do it again, I'd likely put a piece of masking tape on the line to give it a better chance of sticking together.

On another note, got some new stuff to redo the 12v system. A bunch of wire, connectors, switches, marine terminal adaptors and most importantly a fuse block by blue sea systems. It is a 6 circuit system (more than enough for my needs) and it includes a negative bus bar, which is what sold it for me. It will be fun ripping out what I can only assume is lamp cord and replacing it with something I trust.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:59 PM   #45
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Fuse Block

I just installed the fuse block you have shown in my Burro resto. It worked very well. The neg. bus bar was a nice feature. The fuse block is well made also.
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Old 05-02-2017, 08:12 PM   #46
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glad to hear it is well made. I considered other options that were a fraction of the price (and looked cheap).
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Old 05-04-2017, 10:56 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lercs View Post
up next I wanted to reattach the stone guard. The PO had taken it off and apparently the original hardware was thrown away, but he had bought some scamp hardware to replace it. I also noticed that the PPO (previous, previous owner) had modified the rock guard to work as an awing, but it needed some work to look nicer.

I started by removing the paint and polishing the brass hinges that are used to hold the guard up, then reattached the guard using a combination of new and old parts that I had. For any old parts I have also cleaned them up and repainted them (silver to match the scamp parts)

Below you can see how the awning style works. It seems pretty sturdy. If anyone wants more specific details on how this works, let me know and I can take some detailed pics. I have no clue where to find hinges like this, but I like the fact that they are permanently attached (so I can't loose them). I also used the zip-tie trick to hold them at the top.

I am very interested in the way the awning is held in the up position.
Any close-up pictures, measurements etc. would be appreciated.
northof55 at ymail.com

Brian
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Old 05-04-2017, 04:01 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianT View Post
I am very interested in the way the awning is held in the up position.
Any close-up pictures, measurements etc. would be appreciated.
northof55 at ymail.com

Brian
Hi Brian,

I've since noticed that newer Bolers had hinges like this one them. However, their rock gourds have a bit of a different shape to them that gives them more strength. (Take a look at this one

If any amount of rain comes on mine, it kind of folds in the middle, so I wouldn't suggest using hinges like mine, without making adjustments to add strength somehow. Still working on a solution to that.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:27 AM   #49
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I got the 12v wiring redone over the weekend and while I was at it, I decided to re-route one of the 110v wires. As I pulled it out I realized my need for things to be routed nicely has likely saved my trailer as the wire was completely rubbed through.

This is a picture of the wire. It was the wire going to the fridge, which is about the only 110v thing I use when camping, so I am glad I got that fixed!
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:20 PM   #50
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I also just installed the Blue Sea Systems 12V fuse block. With the help of Ian of course! Seemed to go smoothly. I like the idea of using marine grade equipment in our trailers!
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:12 PM   #51
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The marine stuff seems to be easier to find. I wonder what new RVs have in them.

I finished off the main table today. The chrome trim completes the look!

It's going in for new cushion covers soon. Can't wait to have a somewhat finished trailer
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:42 PM   #52
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New cushions thanks to Flesher's Upholstery in Ottawa! They look awesome and the price was decent. (Approximately 1500 CND)
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Old 05-31-2017, 11:50 PM   #53
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British Columbia
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very nice job you have done. I am in the process of updating my 73 a bit at a time. I was lucky because all the curtains and cushions were already done by the previous owner. Where did you get the Blue Sea Systems fuse block? I re-wired all the 12 V interior lights on mine but didn't use a fuse block. I have been out 2 times in mine, very simple to use and sure beats a tent and sleeping on the ground
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Old 06-01-2017, 05:29 PM   #54
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I got the fuse block on Amazon. And many other fun camping things
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Old 06-03-2017, 03:24 PM   #55
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New exterior light. I got it on Amazon as well.

I wired it up to a switch just on the inside of the door.

I also made "some" progress sanding, but it is taking much longer than I hoped!
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:30 PM   #56
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good evening, I added a light like yours beside the door, it has a built in switch and its LED darn its bright. PO started making a rock guard for the front window. Hardware was on the guard but none supplied for the body, so I am making something from scratch, hopefully it will work. I will worry about paint next year? but the front lower body needs some TLC
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Old 06-04-2017, 11:13 AM   #57
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Hi Jan, I opted for the non-switchable version so I could put the switch inside. Then when I forget to turn it off at night I can do so without going outside

Scamp sells a hardware kit, you should look into that.
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Old 06-04-2017, 12:13 PM   #58
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So I was tired of sanding the body and decided I should instead sand the windows. The front and rear windows had paint on them and were a bit foggy. I grabbed my meguiars headlight restoration kit and went to work. The pics are the before and after. In the first pic you can see some leftover paint that looked like it transferred from the rock guard. It took about an hour to sand and polish, but it makes me happy
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Old 06-04-2017, 11:44 PM   #59
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being the cheep SOB that I am I will continue with my home made latches. in reality I need to make a new rock guard as this 1 is about 2 inches to small all around, it just covers the rubber and no more but for now it will do as I have to make a trip to Alberta end of June. Great idea on the windows. Also on the rock guard a member here sent me a link to the adjustable arms that hold up the rock guard. I will get a set after my trip. They are at Vintage Trailer Supply
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Old 06-05-2017, 06:36 AM   #60
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On cutting the veneer and other brittle materials I have found that switching from a wood blade to a very fine tooth metal blade virtually eliminates chipping with a jig saw. Also scribing a line into the veneer on the surface of cut line before hand also helps. On your porch light, I got the one with a switch but plan on adding a second switch inside on the ground wire for the same reason. I considered 2 separate circuits for each switch so it could be turned on from inside if the outside switch was off but that would still mean having to reach outside if that one was left on so I thought just adding the extra switch to the ground wire would solve that.
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