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01-15-2015, 09:26 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Merritt
bsedwebt -
You should be OK with that setup, but I'd caution you to include the following since you are forgoing the solar -
Use two Group 31, 12 volt batteries. This should give you alot of flexibility to run that fridge and other devices before needing a charge - should be around 220 ah total, or around 110 ah useable.
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This is good advice but I don't think you would ever fit two G31 batteries in the stock Parkliner location. You just might, might I say, get two 6V Golf Cart batteries shoe-horned in though. Somebody really needs to find out if this will work. And if it won't, well is should!
With all the good reports from people on the 12V compressor fridges I do not understand others insisting on a propane fired unit. Maybe they don't think this new-fangled electricity is here to stay?
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01-15-2015, 09:58 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe
Minnesota
Posts: 143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf
With all the good reports from people on the 12V compressor fridges I do not understand others insisting on a propane fired unit. Maybe they don't think this new-fangled electricity is here to stay?
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It's simple, I don't want to have to rely on a battery for my refrigerator to work. Gas is cheap, it's reliable, it's efficient and it doesn't require additional solar panels or generators to recharge. I don't need sunshine and it doesn't make any noise. Additionally, I have a nice gas furnace and gas stove available when going off the grid.
It's really not a rejection of new technology but a preference for a proven, flexible technology.
I'm with Steve on this one.
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01-15-2015, 10:27 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #69
South Carolina
Posts: 356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf
This is good advice but I don't think you would ever fit two G31 batteries in the stock Parkliner location. You just might, might I say, get two 6V Golf Cart batteries shoe-horned in though. Somebody really needs to find out if this will work. And if it won't, well is should!
With all the good reports from people on the 12V compressor fridges I do not understand others insisting on a propane fired unit. Maybe they don't think this new-fangled electricity is here to stay?
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There is certainly nothing wrong with using a "golf cart" set of 6V batteries. They usually are taller than 12v batteries, but have a smaller footprint. The AH ratings are around the same, but as they are wired together differntly, the AH rating of two 200 AH 6v batteries is still 200 AH at 12v. They come in AGM too which may be a good choice if you are shoehorning them in and won't be able to access viewports for water maintenance.
My new trailer is ordered with four (4), 6 volt AGM batteries for a total of 400 ah. I also ordered the 3 way fridge, as I'm not concerned with perfomance on LP. On battery, they can be a hog with consumption, but on LP they use almost no DC. Some folks have had issues with LP refrigerators blowing out underway, so they travel in battery mode. That is OK if you are hooked up to your tow vehicle with a 7 pin connector, as it's essentially running off your alternator.
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01-15-2015, 10:37 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf
With all the good reports from people on the 12V compressor fridges I do not understand others insisting on a propane fired unit. Maybe they don't think this new-fangled electricity is here to stay?
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My reason would be in these parts we don't have a lot of power sites in our Provincial parks and that I have two camping buddies with nice new trailers and 12v compressor fridges and 2 batteries on their trailers and every darn time we go camping in areas without power and lots of tree coverage they start to have lack of power issues after two nights of camping! Especially if they have been using a fan or occasional heater along with the fridge and the weather is really bad resulting in limited sunshine for the solar to keep up! Result is plans end up changing & time is wasted while we come up with a creative plan B and spend time recharge their trailer batteries before everything in their fridges goes bad. Not to mention it never seems to fail that their low battery warnings go off in the middle of the night, never in the day time. LOL
Interestingly both have owned trailers with the propane fridge option previously and both would tell you if the fridge in their current trailers wasn't so darn new and replacing it wasn't so costly they would pull it out and replace it with one with a propane option. Actually one of them has indicated that at this point they would pull out the 12v fridge and replace it if it where not for the fact the trailer seems to have been built around the fridge and there is no way to get it out of the trailer without removing the largest window in the trailer... they don't want to go there just yet... but if that window ever starts leaking you can be sure the fridge would come out & be replaced at the same time the window gets reset and resealed.
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01-15-2015, 05:48 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Casita "Cozy-Casa"
Central Virginia
Posts: 431
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Thanks all - still thinking no propane - I will use a couple frozen bottles of water for times when I will not have power for more than 2 days and keep the door shut and cut it off as needed - I am thinking of staying with 2 group 24 but using Trojan batteries - they have a 100 AH rating each (highest I have found for the size that will fit the now standard trailer tongue mount box) somebody suggested to me to use LITHIUM batteries - lighter and more powerful - I have yet to research it but it is becoming popular with boats. I was not thinking about solar - but I have yet to look into inexpensive, temporary use units that I could suction cup mount to the top when needed. Any suggestions on Lithium and cheap, removable solar panels?
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01-15-2015, 07:12 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #69
South Carolina
Posts: 356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsedwebt
Thanks all - still thinking no propane - I will use a couple frozen bottles of water for times when I will not have power for more than 2 days and keep the door shut and cut it off as needed - I am thinking of staying with 2 group 24 but using Trojan batteries - they have a 100 AH rating each (highest I have found for the size that will fit the now standard trailer tongue mount box) somebody suggested to me to use LITHIUM batteries - lighter and more powerful - I have yet to research it but it is becoming popular with boats. I was not thinking about solar - but I have yet to look into inexpensive, temporary use units that I could suction cup mount to the top when needed. Any suggestions on Lithium and cheap, removable solar panels?
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That would be a cool project to put in Lithium.
Here's a company that makes drop in replacements with all the protection electronics built-in (which you'll need) - their Group 24 equivalent is 50AH and costs only $689. 12V 50 AH Lithium Ion Battery | Deep Cycle Lithium Ion Battery | Smart Battery
Keep in mind you can't charge them when it's below 32 degrees F. Let us know how it works out!
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01-15-2015, 08:52 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsedwebt
Any suggestions on Lithium and cheap, removable solar panels?
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If you use the search function at the top of this forum and use the bottom search box on the drop down menu (google) you will find lots of threads on the topic of solar panels... many of us use them.
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01-16-2015, 11:19 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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For us 12v 4 cu ft truck fridge plus 100w solar panel works great. Even when plugged in I let the solar system keep the battery charged.
Wouldn't work in cloudy or real shady places but I camp in Fl in the winter. Works perfect here
You should have no issues towing with your JC. Be sure to have ball at the right height to make trailer level and have at least 10% of total weight on tongue. Weigh it, do not trust manufacturers rating or your own "estimate" of his much and where you load gear
We have a JGC towing 2850# trailer. The factory load leveling rear shocks work great. Note you have to tow a few miles to pump them up.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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01-21-2015, 02:59 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Casita "Cozy-Casa"
Central Virginia
Posts: 431
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Thanks all - I am still trying to get in touch with Chandler - anybody have a way to get in touch?
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01-21-2015, 06:17 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Pat
Trailer: Parkliner
Michigan
Posts: 172
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Bryan, try emailing Tom Bass at "tombass336@gmail.com", he is a wealth of information
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01-21-2015, 06:25 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,578
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I think of how fun this would be if you need warranty work out of them
"I am still trying to get in touch with Chandler"
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01-21-2015, 06:30 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Tab
Trailer: ParkLiner
Tennessee
Posts: 128
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Bsedwebt - just sent you a PM.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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01-21-2015, 07:15 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Bryan
Trailer: Casita "Cozy-Casa"
Central Virginia
Posts: 431
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Thanks all - I have been in contact with him and discussing details - now I am being told PAYMENT IN FULL UP FRONT because it is a custom request - I do not think it is that custom - I would supply a 12v/110v fridge that will fit the factory hole and under seat a/c unit that will fit the factory hole, custom hinges, custom knobs, upholstery and flooring and there would be an ESCAPE REAR WINDOW not an escape hatch. They would delete curtains and rods, batteries, wheels, etc. which are all bolt on items that I would install them when I get there to pick it up and as I go along. He says a custom unit would be impossible to sell so that is why full payment is needed up front. I say it would not be impossible to sell - especially if he has a deposit for thousands of dollars - it would sell really quick for a discount.
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01-21-2015, 09:00 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken C
I think of how fun this would be if you need warranty work out of them
"I am still trying to get in touch with Chandler"
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Was just thinking the exact same thing.
I guess I just don't understand the attraction to doing biz with such a company. When there are a number of very nice alternative fiberglass trailer manufactures out there - some of who have made a real name for themselves due to their high level of customer service.
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01-21-2015, 11:35 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Because Carol some of us really like the design and it is a well made trailer. If mine got totaled I wouldn't think twice about another one. The only other brand I would seriously consider is an Escape and they are a lot more expensive. Scamps, well other then the deluxe units some of us don't care for the way they look with the riveted in cabinets and the exterior look of the rivet caps and Casita's the 16 lack's sufficient headroom for most and not everyone can haul the 17' units.
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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01-22-2015, 05:45 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: Tab
Trailer: ParkLiner
Tennessee
Posts: 128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deryk
Because Carol some of us really like the design and it is a well made trailer. If mine got totaled I wouldn't think twice about another one. The only other brand I would seriously consider is an Escape and they are a lot more expensive. Scamps, well other then the deluxe units some of us don't care for the way they look with the riveted in cabinets and the exterior look of the rivet caps and Casita's the 16 lack's sufficient headroom for most and not everyone can haul the 17' units.
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I agree 100%! I'd buy a new one in a minute if something happened to mine. Even the 17' Casita has less interior space than the ParkLiner. It felt much more cramped. The Scamp I sold (2006) had no where near the build quality of the ParkLiner. and of course felt much, much smaller.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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01-22-2015, 06:16 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Name: Pat
Trailer: Parkliner
Michigan
Posts: 172
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Carol, if you ever saw a Parkliner in person you would understand why we love them. They are such quality built trailers and offer features that the others just can't match.
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01-22-2015, 07:11 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: Sid
Trailer: Parkliner 2014
Wisconsin
Posts: 529
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I mean no offense here so please take none but I am trying to see the difference here. When the same type of request was made of the yet to be released Nest Caravan they responded with a flat out no and that seemed to be accepted. Here a company with less than 100 units released says ok but full payment is required it is met with a more negative response.I was not here when Scamp and Casita were at the same state of maturity as a company but I suspect their answer may have been similar.
Sid
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01-22-2015, 07:39 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Name: Pat
Trailer: Parkliner
Michigan
Posts: 172
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You are so right Deryk and Sid….I do know that Chandler has gone out of his way to customize the Parkliner for a number of people but it sounds like this is a heck of a lot of change. The factory is building (and my guess) paying for 1 unit at a time. I am pretty sure they can't afford to have a unit sit without being sold, just in case. Bryan, one thing is certain, these trailers are top notch quality and beautifully designed. Carol, have you noticed a theme in the Parkliner posts? We love our trailers and are happy we purchased them. You have never seen a post where someone lost money, or didn't get their trailer or felt that the quality was poor or when they got them didn't love them. I think most of us who have newer trailers have had a pretty smooth purchase.
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01-22-2015, 07:52 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsedwebt
Thanks all - I have been in contact with him and discussing details - now I am being told PAYMENT IN FULL UP FRONT because it is a custom request - I do not think it is that custom. ------------ He says a custom unit would be impossible to sell so that is why full payment is needed up front. I say it would not be impossible to sell - especially if he has a deposit for thousands of dollars - it would sell really quick for a discount.
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I used to work for a "semi-custom" home builder. We knew what mods would not hurt a future sale and which others might require rework to get a home sold and negotiated a down payment commensurate. Some price between the standard down-put and full-snort is fair for both the buyer and seller. I am not surprised, but am a little disappointed that PL will not take the time to figure out what that price is. Maybe they are doing all they can and need to concentrate on “standard” for a while though.
A couple of weeks back I met a nice couple who had purchased a new Scamp 13 last year (2014). They had certain requirements (mostly to save money), and as they related to me their Scamp Salesperson actually suggested deletions. And doing so got the unit where they bought new instead of used and everybody was happy.
I really hope PL gets things running smoothly, I would love to have one someday in the not too distant future as the layout appears to meet my needs very well. But my needs/wants will have me wanting a semi-custom unit and if it is going to be hard to get, well this is supposed to be for fun if you catch my drift.
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