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Old 09-01-2013, 07:40 PM   #41
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Name: Stacy
Trailer: "79 Scamp "Tiny Tow"
Texas
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Seal tape.

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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
You can buy the seam tape from Scamp BUT you will need to supplement adhesive with something like 3M spray adhesive 77 (hardware or big box stores have it). Mine has been up for a year without problems.... Except for the smaller test pieces where I did not use the spray on adhesive just to see how well tape stuck on it's own. It didn't.

It's pretty easy, just hold the can close to the seam, spray a fast line of adhesive, wipe off any areas that are wider than the tape will cover right away, wait 5 minutes for the spay to tack up, then apply tape. I used much less than one can to do the whole trailer.

There have been links posted here in the past to other places to get the tape with reports that it is of better quality than what Scamp now has.

Original tape stayed in place for 35 years so I have to figure the quality of what Scamp stocks now is lower than what they used when producing the trailers originally.

Have also seen pictures of the caulk approach, done right it looks pretty good. I went with tape because I felt that caulking would be more work and not be easy to remove if I wanted or needed to redo in the future.

You will need something like tape if you want to trim in your windows, you really don't want to caulk them from the inside to hide the seam between window and wall. Would make window removal for repairs a nightmare.



Hello!

Can you tell me what tape you used? Was it paintable. I was going to paint my ensolite, and found the caulk just rubbed off, so now dealing with that. Also, I was thinking that maybe I should caulk enough to fill the crack, then add the tape?

What do you think? I have some that will be harder to get off/out, but most is gone now.

Thank you,
Stacy
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:42 PM   #42
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Connie, what did you end up doing for the seams?
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:18 AM   #43
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Name: RogerDat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StacyJayT View Post
Hello!

Can you tell me what tape you used? Was it paintable. I was going to paint my ensolite, and found the caulk just rubbed off, so now dealing with that. Also, I was thinking that maybe I should caulk enough to fill the crack, then add the tape?

What do you think? I have some that will be harder to get off/out, but most is gone now.

Thank you,
Stacy
I purchased tape from the Scamp store. I don't think painting it would be an option but have never tried. I think if you are going to paint ensolite you would have to fill seams with a paintable caulk, and use wet sponge to blot and blend in.

Have to ask why paint ensolite? Seems like a lot of work and expense and between curtains, cupboard doors, and cushions very little of the "wall" actually shows from a decorative standpoint.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:38 PM   #44
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Texas
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Thank you for responding and the information. I wish I could leave the ensolite, but after several attempt to make it look good, I give. It also has patches of caulk to cover several holes. So, I caulked it and used the sponge like you said. I hope it sticks! I will paint it to make it look nice again. Thank you, again. Stacy
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:09 PM   #45
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You should use latex paint I think, not silicone
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:19 PM   #46
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Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
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Progress slowed on our Scamp redo this fall, but I do have some new progress to report. We had the cabinets refaced and a new table built. I still need to paint them. I tracked down someone to hang the interior lining. (I was afraid it was too much of a job for me after hanging the ensolite. Unfortunately, it looks like the ensolite that I struggled to put up has to come back down.) We are currently working on the exterior. I had mentioned earlier that the door had a big gap. We've tried a few approaches to getting it fixed. I'm happy to say we are pretty much there! As soon as the door repair is done, we get to paint! Pictures to follow...
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:34 PM   #47
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Here are a few pictures of the cabinets. The closet door now has a mirror in it. We added drawers in the kitchen cabinet, but I don't have a picture of them. I'll post it later.
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:40 PM   #48
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Here's the door challenge…
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:47 PM   #49
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We tried cutting and then reglassing from the inside but it didn't hold. With the help of a friend that refurbishes old cars, we set to work from the outside the second time. You can see from the pictures how we scored the outside, used tension straps on the inside and then put on additional fiberglass to hold it in place.
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:56 PM   #50
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The fit still wasn't quite right so we added a bit of width to the door with fiberglass, reworked the hinges and used bondo to smooth out the curve. (I had purchased new hinges from Scamp but the quality was very poor. We ended up using pieces from the new and old sets, and drilled a new, straighter hole in them.) Along the way we also decided to put a porthole window in the door too.
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:02 PM   #51
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It's almost there. There's just a slight gap on the right side that we are still working on. This work is out of my territory, but I understand that with the help of some bondo, this will blend right in! I'm quite certain the door fits better now than it has ever fit!
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:06 PM   #52
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I can't wait to have it painted. We are having the same professional do the painting, but I'll get to help. We did put a first coat on the tires. Here's a sample of the colors.
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:37 PM   #53
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Wow, that's some serious work on the door! Mine is in a pretty poor shape as well and am a bit scared to get going on it.

Good work!

Slavomir
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:19 PM   #54
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Thanks Slavomir. I wish I could take the credit! I've tried to be involved as much as possible, but it's not really my hands (or brain) doing the hard work. My help has really taken a liking to the project and are on the hunt for perfection. It seems many people have door problems. If you have any questions about what we've done, let me know. If I can't answer your questions, I'll get the answer.
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:42 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AM Moats View Post
Thanks Slavomir. I wish I could take the credit! I've tried to be involved as much as possible, but it's not really my hands (or brain) doing the hard work. My help has really taken a liking to the project and are on the hunt for perfection. It seems many people have door problems. If you have any questions about what we've done, let me know. If I can't answer your questions, I'll get the answer.
Thanks Michelle!
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1978 Boler - work in progress...
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:19 PM   #56
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Wowser Michelle! Looks like lots of work... can't wait to see it in paint.

The reason for the brass ball and spring is to allow the door to move in the correct line and not pinch on the belly band. The hinges are actually not touching top to bottom. The ones on my Scamp are almost 1/2 inch apart. I can't see from the pictures.... are you NOT using the spring?
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:40 PM   #57
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Donna, thanks for the input on the springs. We are using them although I don't think they are on in all of the pictures.
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:16 AM   #58
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AWESOME. Love the work your doing. Love the porthole in the door. What are you going to cover the insulation with on the interior?

Rick
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:01 AM   #59
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Rick, I'm actually going to have to take the reflectix back down. I decided that I wasn't up to the task of covering over it so I tracked down an auto / marine upholsterer that will do the job. Understandably, he is not comfortable putting his work over mine. He's going to use some type of padding for insulation and then cover it with a forgiving headliner fabric (Flexform). I would have preferred a smoother surface, but he recommended this for form, fit and function purposes. Are you familiar with this type of headliner fabric?
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:10 AM   #60
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Looks like Scamp Rat Fur and that is what I am trying to stay away from.

Rick

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Rick, I'm actually going to have to take the reflectix back down. I decided that I wasn't up to the task of covering over it so I tracked down an auto / marine upholsterer that will do the job. Understandably, he is not comfortable putting his work over mine. He's going to use some type of padding for insulation and then cover it with a forgiving headliner fabric (Flexform). I would have preferred a smoother surface, but he recommended this for form, fit and function purposes. Are you familiar with this type of headliner fabric?
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