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Old 11-17-2013, 01:42 PM   #61
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
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will try to post before and after pictures soon but our egg is now home. And I did get a picture of the old axle.

Brake drums for 4 bolt pattern came from Dexter and are about $50 each. That price and availability is something to think about if you are doing an axle replacement and debating 4 bolt vs 5 bolt. Going to find 7 inch 5 bolts drums are cheaper and easier to come by. I may well order an extra one and put bearings in it to keep as a spare due to the lag time of getting a replacement.
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Old 05-28-2014, 01:47 PM   #62
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Trailer: 1971 Trails West Campster/1980 Scamp 13
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Hey Roger. Do you happen to have the measurement sheet for the axle you ordered. This would give me a huge head start in measuring/ordering mine.

Every shop I talk to gives me a different answer. I'm driving to two about 100+ miles apart from one another tomorrow.

Also did you ever learn anything on al-Ko axles. They seem like a pretty good axle company but most discussion is dexter. Plus scamp currently sells dexter (but without brakes)

Thanks. Jimbo
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:01 PM   #63
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Oregon
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So....I have read a lot of these axle threads, but I am still confused! My 79/80(?) scamp looks like it rides real low, and it bounces around a bit when I drive, but as far as my untrained eyes can tell the axle looks ok, a little and I can fit a fist between the wheel well and tire.. Should I go ahead and get it replaced?
Anyways, I crawled under and took a few photos, maybe all you experts can give me your opinion! Thanks for the help everyone!
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:31 PM   #64
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The picture from the side shows you are riding real low. Compare the center of the wheel to the body on yours to other Scamps, especially brochures of the era. The bouncing indicates the axle is suspect. Do the torsion arms move at all under load or when jacked up?
From what I see from here so far, a new axle would not hurt. If your axle has never been replaced, timewise it is due for replacement (34 years). I posted a long thread on what to look for a few years back. Hopefully that will help you make a decision.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...arm-37248.html
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:53 AM   #65
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When you jack up the trailer by the frame does the wheel/tire drop at all? My 1988 Scamp's arms were both stuck (failed) and did not move at all when I got it. We bounced on the tires all the way home. A new axle and all is well. It came with new brakes and led to new tires & rims which is all good too.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:05 AM   #66
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Sarah notice how your arm with the wheel is pointed up in the second picture from the bottom? Level with frame or pointed slightly down would have been more likely original position is my guess.

There are no visible signs of wear for a torsion axle other than camper sits low or comparing the original arm angle to the current arm angle.

If you look at the new axle pictures a few posts back in post 57 in the bottom picture you can see the square shaft end welded into the right side of the arm. Right about center of picture. Note the "points" of the corners on that square shaft. They point almost straight up/down and nearly straight left/right parallel with the bracket top edge.

New they always have the points at the end of the square shaft lined up like that, as the rubber gets compressed and ages the shaft re-orients itself so the arm rides higher. Think of that video, the square shaft twists against rubber. As rubber ages the shaft does not spring back as far. So by looking at yours with the tire off and noting how much different current points on the shaft are compared to original position you can tell how many degrees it has shifted.

Notice how the arm is pointed down on the new axle. There is 22.5 degrees difference between the bracket top line and the arm center line. That is what is meant by a 22.5 down angle axle.

22.5 is more down angle than I think Scamp normally uses. As I noted above you can use the center line point to point on the square shaft and it's angle to the center line of arm to determine original angle. Shaft which will have changed position relative to the bracket top line as rubber wears out but will have maintained same relative position to the arm welded on to it.

I'm pretty sure your trailer is sitting low but I used mine a few camping trips locally sitting lower. My wheel well cut across the rim a few inches lower than yours does in the bottom picture you posted. Have to watch out for steep driveways or steep camp sites to avoid having back end scrape. Curtain rods tended to bounce out of holders going down the road so I just set them on the cushions before hitting the road, and I would not put much weight in the overhead cupboards but I could still hit the local state parks and use it.

Since you can get a fist between the top of the tire and the wheel well, next thing to check is to look up and see if there are scuff or rub marks from tire hitting wheel well. Spinning tire meets fiberglass wheel well is not good for the wheel well. Might have to pull the tire to get a good look.

I did a lot of other work before I replaced the axle with the one pictured above. But I also took it easy so I would not pound the camper going down the road and planned for the expense of an axle before too long.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:39 AM   #67
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Thanks guys! This is all very helpful!
I will take the wheels off this weekend and look at the "points" and make sure they aren't rubbing in the wheel wells. Assuming they have shifted, I am guessing there is no way to reposition the arms and keep the axle? I will just have to get the whole thing replaced, correct?

I don't mind replacing it, I just want to make sure I am not endangering myself or any other drivers if I take her on the road!

Eventually I definitely want to get her sitting a little higher so I am not so stressed about bottoming out! When I picked her up and had to drive home 4 hrs, I stopped at a Safeway, because it was the only thing open on the Sunday before Memorial day, and bought pool noodles and duck tape to pad her rear end! I got some great looks while I was installing my noodles!

Sorry for the sideways photo!
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:58 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by summooreplz View Post
Thanks guys! This is all very helpful!
I will take the wheels off this weekend and look at the "points" and make sure they aren't rubbing in the wheel wells. Assuming they have shifted, I am guessing there is no way to reposition the arms and keep the axle? I will just have to get the whole thing replaced, correct?

I don't mind replacing it, I just want to make sure I am not endangering myself or any other drivers if I take her on the road!

Eventually I definitely want to get her sitting a little higher so I am not so stressed about bottoming out! When I picked her up and had to drive home 4 hrs, I stopped at a Safeway, because it was the only thing open on the Sunday before Memorial day, and bought pool noodles and duck tape to pad her rear end! I got some great looks while I was installing my noodles!

Sorry for the sideways photo!
Not really replicable parts so no way to fix existing and keep. On the plus side a new axle adds value for many years because they only require replacing after many years, typically 10-20 year range. If you replace with axle that adds brakes not only will your own use be enhanced but resale value also.

With old axle you might be a little more susceptible to sway or bounce making camper a little less stable. I had no problems but my longest trip was only 50 miles of good expressway at 60 mph max. Most of the rest has been on 2 lane roads. Handled fine. Tires will tend to wear out faster, can have uneven wear or cupping so watch the tire tread a bit more closely.

Well since you know the risk of bottoming out as they say forewarned is forearmed. Better to get strange looks than need FG repair. Besides if you ever camp next to a 45 ft. monster motor home or giant 5th wheel your gonna get some strange looks anyway.
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:09 AM   #69
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Name: Sarah
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Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Not really replicable parts so no way to fix existing and keep. On the plus side a new axle adds value for many years because they only require replacing after many years, typically 10-20 year range. If you replace with axle that adds brakes not only will your own use be enhanced but resale value also.

With old axle you might be a little more susceptible to sway or bounce making camper a little less stable. I had no problems but my longest trip was only 50 miles of good expressway at 60 mph max. Most of the rest has been on 2 lane roads. Handled fine. Tires will tend to wear out faster, can have uneven wear or cupping so watch the tire tread a bit more closely.
Alright! I am sold on a new axle. No one ever wants to spend the extra money... But I think I will save myself the stress!

Can I just take it to an auto body shop? Or do I have to take it to a trailer specialist? I guess I should just call around! I live in a small town, hopefully someone can take care of it for me!

Thanks again for the help!!
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:13 AM   #70
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Anybody that welds can do it for you. Your best bet is someone that makes or works with trailers because they will be familiar with the torsion axles and where to get them. Dexter has a find a distributor on their web site. Find a distributor near you, call them and ask for recommendations. Just tell them you are looking at replacing a Dexter #9.
http://www.dexteraxle.com/find_a_distributor______
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:18 AM   #71
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[QUOTE=summooreplz;467724]Can I just take it to an auto body shop? Or do I have to take it to a trailer specialist? I guess I should just call around! I live in a small town, hopefully someone can take care of it for me! [QUOTE]

Any competent Welder can do the job. Honestly, getting the old axle off was the worst part of the job on mine. HINT ONE: Make some reference marks on the frame before cutting the old axle off. Your new axle might not mount up just like the old but at least you will not have to start from scratch centering things back up. HINT TWO: After messing around far too long trying to carefully cut the welds between the old mounts and frame I gave up and torched the mounts in two getting the axle out of the way. Then I could actually get at the old mounts and carefully cut them off without damaging the frame.
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