Looking for input on Boler 1300 frame redo

[bobdobqb]

I'm about to pull the frame out from my 1973 Boler. It looks pretty good from what I can see crawling under it but I guess you never know until it's out in the light of day. If it looks okay I'm planning on strengthening the well known weak spots and definitely replacing the axle. If it's bad.... Well good thing my son is a welder fabricator

So what I'm thinking of doing when it all goes back together is to weld tabs to the frame for mounting the shell and use bolts instead of the 16 screws that it has had originally.

How many mounting points do you think would be sufficient and should I go with stainless bolts or standard mild steel?

Any input is greatly appreciated.

[FRED SMAILES]

I'd put that fabricator to work on a new one! Lol
The frames were very light to start with and 45 years doesn't help.
I think I'd use the same amount of mount tabs cause the tabs don't make the glass any stronger. Bigger washers on the glass side will help to.
Fred

[bobdobqb]

Thanks Fred. I'm thinking a new frame will be on the books but just don't want to go there this year if I don't have to Definitely going to put some bigger backing plates on the shell this time as well.

[thrifty bill]

FWIW, my Trillium 1300 has 8 mounting bolts: four in front (two tabs per side), and four through the frame in the rear. If I did it over, I'd probably stick with 8, maybe go to 10, but all into tabs and none through the frame.

Earlier Trillium 1300s had 6 bolts, all through the frame (which lead to a frame recall).

[bobdobqb]

Thanks Bill. I didn't want to bolt through that thin walled tubing. I'm thinking 3/8 for the bolt size. The screws I pulled out (well at least the 2 that actually came out.. The other 14 snapped right off) looked like a #10 or maybe #12 but they had almost no thread on them

[Stephen_Albers]

Before doing anything, you should carefully consider your intended use. The standard frame is not strong enough for boondocking operations. If you want to do anything more than roll down a paved highway, then consider a boondocking frame, axle and tire upgrade, like this one.
https://youtu.be/zkfaMf4JCUg

The factory frame is not corrosion-proofed and is probably rusting from the inside out. That can also be permanently fixed with a boondocking frame

[thrifty bill]

Originally Posted by bobdobqb

Thanks Bill. I didn't want to bolt through that thin walled tubing. I'm thinking 3/8 for the bolt size. The screws I pulled out (well at least the 2 that actually came out.. The other 14 snapped right off) looked like a #10 or maybe #12 but they had almost no thread on them

My originals were 5/16 inch as I recall, so 3/8 should be more than adequate.

[bobdobqb]

Originally Posted by Stephen_Albers

Before doing anything, you should carefully consider your intended use. The standard frame is not strong enough for boondocking operations.

Thanks Stephen. That's why I'm hoping to not dive right into a frame rebuild. I'm not sure how much serious boondocking we'll do although there are plenty of logging roads to try out here on the island.

[bobdobqb]

Sounds like 3/8 it is. Thanks Bill!

[JamesML]

G'day: I had to replace the frame on my '76 Boler 1300 a couple of years ago, due to total failure of the original. While at it, I also replaced the clapped-out axle. One of the design weaknesses of the old Boler was the use of the screws to retain the body to the frame. I up-sized the frame to 0.125 wall thickness, and added mounting tab similar to the original 4 on both sides of the frame wherever possible--14 in all. Before removing the original frame I marked the new tab locations wherever there was the imbedded plank floor to provide load support. For mounting bolts I used 5/16 stainless steel with nyloc nuts, and used large diameter fender washers internally. The old frame was then used as a template for the new.

Incidentally, during the rebuild, I also determined that part of the problem with the door fit was due to the weight of the body shell being carried cantilevered outside the frame--the misfit was not all door problem. The sag could not be corrected in the body, but did improve slightly with the added tabs.

With your access to the welding, I would suggest you forget about reinforcing an antiquated insufficient original frame with a new heavier duty unit. No point attempting to reinforce the old frame- the reinforcement will only transfer the flexing to another weak area. I speak from experience, that's what happened to me.

[JJ H]

How the shell is attached depends on the year it was manufactured and the location (Winnipeg, Alberta or Ontario). My 1978 manufactured in Earlton Ontario has a Fiberglass floor. There were 4 through shell bolts that went through 4 steel tabs on the frame. There were also maybe a dozen wood screws through the floor screwed into the frame. Almost all my screws had rusted out but the bolts still intact. Frames on the Boler are well known for rusting out and having billy bob patch welds. Trailers stored in grass or wet climes very prone to rust issues. I took my shell off the frame and in very good shape. Needed work by the coupler where it was evident trailer had come off hitch and wore down part of the a frame. Torsion axle that old likely done also. A number of sites give details on how to measure. I reinforced by the coupler, wire brushed entire frame and applied POR 15. Then added new torsion axle.
I note you are in BC. I did meet a welder in the industrial park in Pemberton who had built a new Boler frame for someone. I had him do some work on my son’s Airstream frame. Good work.

[bobdobqb]

Originally Posted by JamesML

With your access to the welding, I would suggest you forget about reinforcing an antiquated insufficient original frame with a new heavier duty unit. No point attempting to reinforce the old frame- the reinforcement will only transfer the flexing to another weak area. I speak from experience, that's what happened to me.

Hi James,

A rebuild of the frame will definitely be in the not too distant future but I had my son and one of his other welder buddies go over it and they thought it is in great shape (had been kept in a shed for many years) so for this season we'll add some fish plates and gussets in the known stress areas and with a new axle we should be good for this camping season. Maybe look at doing a rebuild over the winter.

Definitely going to tab the frame and use bolts. Good to know I'd be fine with 5/16 ss. I think I have 3/8 on hand so will use them.

[bobdobqb]

Hi JJ,

Got the frame wire wheeled and the new flexiride axle ordered so I'm hoping to get it all strengthened up and ready for a coat of POR 15 by next week. Fingers crossed W'ere having nice weather here right now and I'm getting itchy to get her back together and get rolling!

[Jim Park]

I have my 74 Boler at Metro Center in Winnipeg for a new frame. They galvanize their frames and replace the screws with 4 bolts. They have a web site with some pictures which may help you decide how and where you want to secure the body to the frame. My trailer is slightly different than what they build, but they should just have to relocate one piece before welding and galvanizing. Speak with Maggie for more info.

[bobdobqb]

Thanks for the info Jim. I took a look at how they do the tabs and they look like nice builds. I'm sure you'll be happy with it!