1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:05 PM   #21
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Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
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What next?

Ok, things have been a bit quiet on our front, so here is a quick update on progress.

-After Christmas we finalized frame modification ideas/measurements and took the old frame with new axle and wheels to a welder to fabricate a completely new frame. It was a challenge finding a welder knowledgeable and willing to take on this project. The job should take a few weeks to complete.

-Windows: We decided that the best option (due to cost) for glass windows is from Scamp, so I plan to order those up in the next couple days. Our side window openings are 1.5" larger than what Scamp stocks, so it will require more fiberglass work, and of course the radius corners need to be built up as well. With an 18x24" window being $155 from Scamp as opposed to 18x25.5" from a Hehr distributor at $535 each! That's insane for some glass and aluminum, and makes the decision easy.

-The underside of our Boler is the same shiny (more shiny and unfaded!) surface as the rest of the outside, so after fixing some holes/cracks/thin sections with fiberglass I will rough up the surface and apply Herculiner for road rock resistance.

Will keep things updated once actual work gets done!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:10 PM   #22
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Table and Cushion Questions

I have a couple questions for you guys regarding the table and cushions in your trailers.

1) If you are using a pedestal table leg (see picture), are you finding this to be sturdy with ONE leg, or do these things get wobbly? I'm wondering if I should install two of these legs. How high is your table (floor to base of table)? I see Scamp uses 27" leg, but I wonder if this is too low and if 29" would do the trick better?

I was thinking of the Scamp hardware but we will be installing our water tank inside under the back window and that will create a seating area so our table won't be going to the wall, hence a pedestal is in order.

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2) How thick are your cushions? 3 or 4 or 5 inches? For sleeping I'm thinking of staying away from 3". Am hoping that 4" is sufficient, but is 5" just amazing for sitting and sleeping?

Thanks for the help guys! (I'm also going to post this in the general section so people who own other trailers can comment.)
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:15 PM   #23
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Rather than screw ours down I made a base. This avoids holes in the floor, let's you slide it around to sit, and let's you take it up to gain floor space, in our case for the dog. It's not quite as stable as being fixed but good enough. As far as cushions, ours came with 4 inch which are fine for sitting. We add a 2" memory foam topper for sleeping. Raz
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:25 PM   #24
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I think the leg decision should be based upon your table size. I have had campers with one pedestal and a small table and one with 2 pedestals with a larger table. Not sure when the bigger size requirement is determined.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:20 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Rather than screw ours down I made a base. This avoids holes in the floor, let's you slide it around to sit, and let's you take it up to gain floor space, in our case for the dog. It's not quite as stable as being fixed but good enough. As far as cushions, ours came with 4 inch which are fine for sitting. We add a 2" memory foam topper for sleeping. Raz
Hi Raz, thanks for the info and pics. Looks like what you got going is a pretty nice idea and we'll definitely consider it! Our dog will sit in a different space, so we would be a bit less concerned about the "permanent" floor mounting.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:21 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I think the leg decision should be based upon your table size. I have had campers with one pedestal and a small table and one with 2 pedestals with a larger table. Not sure when the bigger size requirement is determined.

That's a good point, thanks. We have yet to determine the final dimensions of the table. We are extending the bedding area from the original by about 6-8 inches, so the table needs to extend as well.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:33 PM   #27
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New Frame!

It took a bit of time (not that we were in a hurry, and well done work always takes a bit longer), but we now have the new frame! I have to say that the guys at Mann's Welding did an outstanding job on fabrication. If anyone in the greater Seattle area would like a new frame or modifications, these guys are truly masters and I'd take my business to them again.

After picking the frame up a week ago, Tim Mann (the owner) recommended Bull Dog Powder Coating. It was close so I drove straight there to get an estimate. The price was reasonable and I left the frame to receive two coats of black semi-shiny powder. Many colors and finishes are available, but I wanted the visible parts of the frame to go with the black in the wheels. And if there are ever any nicks that develop, it should be easier to touch up with paint. I must say it looks amazing and we're super happy with the whole outcome!

Here are a couple pics, and I'll talk more about some of the features/modifications in the next couple days.

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Old 02-01-2013, 11:24 PM   #28
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They did a great job building the new frame. You're going to have a whole new trailer when you're finished. You're doing yourself proud.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:12 PM   #29
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Frame Details

Here are pics of a few of the frame details.

Our Boler was attached with four main bolts (two in the front and two in the back) plus random screws at various places. We decided to go with the four original ones and add the two middle ones for extra strength:

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Besides much better steel and awesome welding done by Mann's Welding, we added five new support beams for the floor and overall strength of the frame. Also, that back cross-beam will serve as the main support for the 12 gallon on-board water tank...wouldn't want that to bust thru the floor!

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New wheels and tires on a new 2,000 lb Dexter trailing axle with e-brakes:

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On the back bumper we have a spare wheel mount (an additional part is not yet attached):

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Old 02-02-2013, 09:31 PM   #30
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Impressive frame - nicely thought out!
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:04 PM   #31
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Few more of the frame...

Couple more details...

Here is the new coupler (for a 2" ball) with safety cables for a cleaner look:

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We got a 5,000 lb Bulldog bolt-on jack. I ended up painting it with three coats of Rustoleum (the original gray paint was already coming off). Still have to get the wheel:

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And finally, two 1,000 lb stabilizer jacks are bolted on the inside of the frame in the back:

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Well, I better get over to Lowe's for some more supplies and get my hands dirty working on the body. The camping season is just around the corner and there is still so much to accomplish!
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:59 PM   #32
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Ice Box Questions

Do any of you guys use just an ice box, like the one Scamp offers on their website? (The kind that takes the ice block on the middle shelf.) How has it worked for you?

I know there is a fridge that runs on AC/DC (no propane) that would be nice, but at $700, we can't go that direction at this point.

Would appreciate some comments if you have experience with the ice box. Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:06 PM   #33
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Do any of you guys use just an ice box, like the one Scamp offers on their website? (The kind that takes the ice block on the middle shelf.) How has it worked for you?

I know there is a fridge that runs on AC/DC (no propane) that would be nice, but at $700, we can't go that direction at this point.

Would appreciate some comments if you have experience with the ice box. Thanks!
There are a ton of threads about ice boxes here (do a Google search).
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:33 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by slavandheather View Post
Do any of you guys use just an ice box, like the one Scamp offers on their website? (The kind that takes the ice block on the middle shelf.) How has it worked for you?

I know there is a fridge that runs on AC/DC (no propane) that would be nice, but at $700, we can't go that direction at this point.

Would appreciate some comments if you have experience with the ice box. Thanks!
On ebay there is an ad for Norcold 2.7 cu ft, stainless steel finish, DC fridges for $500. Hard to pass up. They have several of them. These are not ac/dc only dc but that is fine because when you are plugged in to 110 it runs off the convertor anyway.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:36 PM   #35
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PS in answer to your question. Personally if you are considering a fridge down the road I'd just use an inexpensive ice chest for the time being. Purchasing and installing an ice box seems like a waste of future funds.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:18 AM   #36
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Tom, thanks for the tip on the Google search w/in the forum. I missed that option before and it helped a ton this time around.

Steve, you're right, that fridge is a beauty. We're starting to lean more toward the ice box - an ice cooler has worked real well for the last 18 years.

We may change our mind in a couple years, but the simplicity of the ice box seems to make sense...and the price is even better considering we're doing the full rebuild...
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:22 PM   #37
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Hi Slavomir

My friend has a Scamp with the ice chest. He and his wife hate the amount of space used, by the Ice, we have a newer Dometic. it is a three way, works best on gas, it opens at the top, as it rolls out on a pullout shelf with acuride glides. put in by P.O., I put a raised panel door on, to replace the plywood door. ( it attaches to the shelf and not the Dometic) We also have a very good, $200.00 to $300.00 (bear proof) cooler to put outside,that rides in the 4Runner. The Dometic comes with wheels on it for taking it,to an event outside somewhere,and I guess it would be stored in someones garage. It has the wheels removed while sitting on the pull out shelf. Cost,???? could be looked up on the web. If you put a cooler in place perhaps you could wire, and gas the cavity for a future Frig. easier now than later.also build the cabinet, with dimensions that the opening can be increased without having to rebuild the unit. face panels that are wider than the needed opening, that can be cut wider, and leave a nice looking fit.

Later Kenny
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:00 PM   #38
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Hi Slavomir

My friend has a Scamp with the ice chest. He and his wife hate the amount of space used, by the Ice, we have a newer Dometic. it is a three way, works best on gas, it opens at the top, as it rolls out on a pullout shelf with acuride glides. put in by P.O., I put a raised panel door on, to replace the plywood door. ( it attaches to the shelf and not the Dometic) We also have a very good, $200.00 to $300.00 (bear proof) cooler to put outside,that rides in the 4Runner. The Dometic comes with wheels on it for taking it,to an event outside somewhere,and I guess it would be stored in someones garage. It has the wheels removed while sitting on the pull out shelf. Cost,???? could be looked up on the web. If you put a cooler in place perhaps you could wire, and gas the cavity for a future Frig. easier now than later.also build the cabinet, with dimensions that the opening can be increased without having to rebuild the unit. face panels that are wider than the needed opening, that can be cut wider, and leave a nice looking fit.

Later Kenny
Hi Kenny,

Thanks for your thoughts! I have a feeling that once we get tired of the ice box we would go with a self venting DC fridge. That way we won't need to make any vent holes in the body or deal with gas for it...just wiring. Good point on the cabinet. I think only the front would need to be modified, at least that would be my plan. But I better make sure the cabinet is deep enough. Thanks again!

Slavomir
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:53 PM   #39
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Thought about safety

Frame looks great. I observed that when you jacked up the original frame, you put the tongue jack directly on the cinder block. In the future it would be wiser to place a block of wood on top of the block to spread out the load. I restore antique cars and learned this lesson years ago when one broke through a block and dropped the car. Luckily no one was underneath it.
Better safe than sorry.

Keep up the great work.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:37 PM   #40
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Frame looks great. I observed that when you jacked up the original frame, you put the tongue jack directly on the cinder block. In the future it would be wiser to place a block of wood on top of the block to spread out the load. I restore antique cars and learned this lesson years ago when one broke through a block and dropped the car. Luckily no one was underneath it.
Better safe than sorry.

Keep up the great work.
Dave,

Thanks for this tip! That is good to know...I wondered how strong those blocks are. I'll follow your advice. This is a first of such projects for us, but in the future I would like to restore an old truck. Sounds to me like you have an amazing profession.

Slav
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