trillium cracks above wheel well

[Reade]

Hey all.

First time poster long time viewer.

I have a 70's 1300 I have been working on and I have a little issue with some cracks above the wheel well. I gouged them out and marine filled them and then Re gel coated them. After a 700 km haul the cracks have resurfaced.

So 2 questions are these cracks the evidence of a larger problem? The other is the next time I go and fix this should I be strengthening in the wheel well from the inside?

I am guessing that I will be putting fiber glass down next time but should I do it both inside and outside?

Thanks

Reade

[Byron Kinnaman]

You need to do a little trouble shooting and find out what's causing it. Tires too big?, Axle shot. Etc.etc.

[Reade]

This seems to be a problem with some of the fiberglass structure and not due to any of the trailer frame or axel. I no the wheels are stock size and the axel although not great still has suspension. I am taking the the camper shell off the trailer on the fall and putting a new axel under it but I think this has less to do with axel or tire. Size and more to do with errors or problems in the lay up. Not sure though so thanks for the reply. I'll post a better pic soon.

Reade

[Reade]

More pictures

[David Tilston]

Reade, I have been studying Trilliums for some years now. I have never seen this before. That area is under the closet, on the inside. I would be inclined to sand the inside, so you get good adhesion of a couple of new layers of fibreglass, on the inside. Not sure how you would get access to it, other then cutting out the bottom of the closet, or putting in a door on the lower section. This could provide some access, but you would still have to reach over the wheel well.

There may already be a door there, but it would have a lining that you have to remove. There are from one, up to three doors on the closet of a 1300, depending on year, and options. The older Trilliums wasted lots of space at the top of the closet. Later ones all had small door at the top. The lower door, being in-front of the wheel well, is so shallow that other then a spice rack, not much would fit there.

[Reade]

Thanks David

Sorry for taking so long to reply. Just getting back to the trill repairs now.

Thats what I was thinking for a repair. I will sand and fibreglass both sides this time instead of just the exterior.

The crack is actually on the other side of the trailer. Under the sink. I think it may have been related to the water tank that was once on that side... But this is just a guess.

I am taking it off the trailer today and getting the axel replaced. Thats what brings me back to the site. I will let you know how the repair works out sometime this summer.

Reade

[Randy Bishop]

Originally Posted by Reade

Thanks David

Sorry for taking so long to reply. Just getting back to the trill repairs now.

Thats what I was thinking for a repair. I will sand and fibreglass both sides this time instead of just the exterior.

The crack is actually on the other side of the trailer. Under the sink. I think it may have been related to the water tank that was once on that side... But this is just a guess.

I am taking it off the trailer today and getting the axel replaced. Thats what brings me back to the site. I will let you know how the repair works out sometime this summer.

Reade

Like David I've renovated over 7 Trilliums and own 8 others now, and like David said I've never seen this problem before, are you sure it's a stress crack or just a hair line crack in the gel-coat (that I HAVE seen), hard to see in pictures and the paint job doesn't help.. After blowing up the photo it looks like someone might have pried against it from the inside trying to remove something the way it sort of bulges out there.....
The water tank is located in the floor between the two side bunks in the back so I wouldn't believe that would be the problem either...

[tractors1]

Cracks usually don't reoccur unless the glass is stressed/flexing. Since you're pulling it off the frame I suggest a really thorough frame check. Might have a trailer place do an exam and add some bracing.

[Reade]

Thanks Guys I will be taking it off the trailer this weekend so I will let you know what I find.

[Reade]

Well I took it off the trailer today as promised. Found a super easy way to get it off. Just jacked it up fairly high. Then put some milk crates under it. lowered it down a bit so the trailer separated from the bubble. Then slipped some tie down straps between the frame and the fibreglass bubble and lifted it up using the rafters in the garage. dropped the trailer puled it out. slid in a big moving dolly and done.

Now what did i find.... Every screw under the dinette was toast. As in not attached to the trailer. So the only thing that was holding it to the trailer was the two big bolts in the front. So this might be leading to the cracks. I also found a really big crack that was hidden by the trailer. Just where it makes the 4"rise. It is on the passenger(door) side.

So it looks like I will have some major fibreglass work cut out for me.

Trailer will be off to the shop for a new axel, the strengthening plates, sandblast and paint.

[Reade]

Well started grinding down these cracks to do a repair. Unfortunately the big one that was hidden by the frame(and on the inside the closet) had some calking in it so somebody new about it. I would advise everyone to look under the closet to check for this crack in the future. I believe the trailers axle and lack of bolts in the back contributed to these cracks.

One other question to the experts is has anyone else seen these spikes (nails) protruding from the bottom of the trailer?

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Reade

One other question to the experts is has anyone else seen these spikes (nails) protruding from the bottom of the trailer?

Great pictures - I'm interested in following this repair!

Given the position of the spike/nail - I'm wondering if they were not used to align the body to the frame at some time. I wonder about the plywood in your floors - is it still solid? A weak floor might cause the body to flex and crack. I've seen that in early bolers.

[Reade]

Think your right the nails seem to be in the right spot to align the trailer. just wondering if it was done this way when it was built or someone had it off the trailer before me?

I think the floor is solid under the dinette it seem solid. I will b ripping all of the floor covering off so that will give me a better idea.

[David D]

Originally Posted by Reade

Well started grinding down these cracks to do a repair. Unfortunately the big one that was hidden by the frame(and on the inside the closet) had some calking in it so somebody new about it. I would advise everyone to look under the closet to check for this crack in the future. I believe the trailers axle and lack of bolts in the back contributed to these cracks.

One other question to the experts is has anyone else seen these spikes (nails) protruding from the bottom of the trailer?

Hi Reade, I too had cracks hidden by the frame

Mind you quite a bit smaller than yours. Photo:

[Reade]

Originally Posted by David D

Hi Reade, I too had cracks hidden by the frame
Attachment 106796
Mind you quite a bit smaller than yours. Photo:Attachment 106796

So what do you think caused them David?

[David D]

Originally Posted by Reade

Think your right the nails seem to be in the right spot to align the trailer. just wondering if it was done this way when it was built or someone had it off the trailer before me?

I think the floor is solid under the dinette it seem solid. I will b ripping all of the floor covering off so that will give me a better idea.

Hi Reade, You asked what may have caused the cracks in my trailer. (Surfside) I believe it was years of impact of the frame on the body, since the body did not sit properly on the frame. All of the more serious body damage was on the left side, the heavier side, there were three points where the frame was abrading the body, the very front very back and the wheel well. To remedy the situation I repaired the holed FG, and then used tapered rubber shims on the frame to help support the body in the front and back. Under the wheel well I just repaired the body. To repair the body, I removed the frame from the body, sitting on wooden block. with a jack I maneuvered the height of the body to close the gap as much as possible. Then I prepped the inside by sanding and acetone, then applied several layers of FG to repair. On the outside I used good quality body filler to fill the gap and then finished it with a coat of gel coat. I think the rubber shims in the front and back will reduce the impact of the frame with the body. I got the tapered rubber shims from a used rim liner of a large truck rim.

[Reade]

Well I finished the repair on the cracks and taped and sanded the Underside down and applied Monstaliner (Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner outperforms Herculiner Bed Liner, Duplicolor and Rustoleum Road Warrior) roll on box liner. Think it turned out nice. Now I am just waiting for the trailer to get back from the shop.

[Erik G]

Looking good Reade! Love the use of the fire hose as a sling.... strong stuff! Your project is in a far better state than mine! See u on the fire line...hope you'll share some fiberglassing tips.
Erik PANP.

[Reade]

Finally got my trailer back. New Axel. New Jack. New Receiver. New Paint. Recall repair.

Looks good

Erik Fiberglass work is easy. Ill give you a lesson next time I'm up your way.

[Reade]

In less than half an hour it was back on its perch.