Trillium 1300 Window Replacement Questions - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-25-2017, 01:59 PM   #1
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Name: Murray
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Trillium 1300 Window Replacement Questions

Hi,

I just reacquired a Trillium 1300 from my oldest son and am starting on the process of getting rid of leaks. So far, I have removed the rear window and am getting ready to start reassembling it.

I purchased 3/4" thick fir marine plywood to replace the wood which was all damp and rotten. I just need to finish cutting to length and then will either coat each piece with marine epoxy (I have MAS and System Three on hand), or paint with System Three Yacht Primer or I will use exterior latex primer and exterior paint from Benjamin Moore before replacing.

I have a couple rolls of butyl tape and will use a double layer of it on the window frame.

My first question relates to getting the wood and window organized and ready to install. I am thinking that before I apply the butyl I should lay the wood around the frame and clamp it in place so that I can drill pilot holes for all the screws. Then, I plan to lay the wood in place behind the ensolite, replace the butyl-taped window and screw into place. Once a couple of screws are in the predrilled holes everything should line up is my thinking. Am I on the right track or is there a preferred method?

I really don't want to use contact cement to glue the ensolite liner to the wood again as it was a pain to remove. Any suggestions on that?


Cheers,

Murray
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Old 10-25-2017, 03:10 PM   #2
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Securing Plywood

Hi,

Interesting problem. Since you don't want to glue in the new
pieces I would use some flat headed short sheet metal screws
counter sunk into the fiberglass into the plywood, maybe
3 screws in each piece arranged to not interfere with the
the window mounting screws?

What do you think?

Larry H
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:03 AM   #3
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Name: Dave W
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You could put a thin frame on the inside of the windows to hold the Ensolite in place.
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Old 10-26-2017, 12:15 PM   #4
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Name: Mike
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window

I put the ply wood in place and use long rivets to hold it in place .Then put the window in and screw the window in .the ply wood wont split like wood so i dont have to pre drill .
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:07 AM   #5
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Name: Gordon
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maybe just some 'double sided' carpet tape to hold the wood while putting in the screws?
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:09 AM   #6
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Name: Murray
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I like David's suggestion of a thin frame to hold the liner in place in lieu of gluing it again. Although, if I do a good job of resealing, the windows should be good until I am long gone and using contact cement again wouldn't matter lol.

Cheers,

Murray
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:59 AM   #7
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Name: Murray
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I got the rear window reinstalled with the help of a buddy last night. Predrilled 3 holes in top piece of wood. Once those were in after adding the butyl tape to the window frame it was easy to finish all the other screws with him pressing the plywood frame from inside and me drilling the screws from outside.

Followed that up with taking a few of the t-strips down that were badly crinkled and boiling them in some hot water...worked like a dream! We couldn't believe how they regained their smooth shape.

Three more windows and the top vent to go and the leak proofing should be complete. Then checking out the propane stove and fridge operation and possibly a solar system!
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