How to replace escape hatch vent operator 2010 scamp

[Yarnstormer]

My scamp has the escape hatch, with a crack up vent. Mine won’t open unless I open the hatch and reach around opening it manually.

In the model I have, the operating mechanism does not come out by simply removing a couple of screws. There is no place to slide the operator arm out of the track, or to slide a new one on. I am thinking I need to create an opening on the track.

Has anyone done this repair?

[Borrego Dave]

That's strange E, can't say I've ever seen a vent of any size that didn't have a slot for arm removal. Might want to give Scamp a call and see what they say. Worse case you could remove the whole thing off the roof to make it easier to drill and file an opening for a new crank mech. Might be a win too for a new butyl tape seal. If you do call Scamp, let us know what they say .

[Kenny in Ohio]

I didn't know how to place a video on here but go to youtube and see if this can help you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkM5N5jQork

[Scamper Jim]

E.

That appears to be a newer Scamp, so there should be little chance of the crank mechanism needing replacement, unless someone torqued on it with a 3-foot pipe wrench!

If you mean that you are able to reach around and lift the lid while cranking it open, then it may just be a very dry track that needs a little lube.

Go to a hardware store and get a small tube of white lithium grease. Put a dab on your finger and reach around and put it in the back end of the track where the small bracket slides within the track. A little dab will do you!

Jim

[Yarnstormer]

Originally Posted by Kenny in Ohio

I didn't know how to place a video on here but go to youtube and see if this can help you:

Very helpful! my lid does have those screws. I’ll try the lithium grease first then if necessary see if I can remove the works to replace.

[Yarnstormer]

Originally Posted by Scamper Jim

E.



That appears to be a newer Scamp, so there should be little chance of the crank mechanism needing replacement, unless someone torqued on it with a 3-foot pipe wrench!



If you mean that you are able to reach around and lift the lid while cranking it open, then it may just be a very dry track that needs a little lube.



Go to a hardware store and get a small tube of white lithium grease. Put a dab on your finger and reach around and put it in the back end of the track where the small bracket slides within the track. A little dab will do you!



Jim

This did the trick! I had a can of spray white lithium grease here already - so I sprayed the track and also sprayed down into the housing where the gear is. It took a little back and forth but now it’s working fine. I’ll add that to my list of things to keep an eye on. When the weather is dry I’m going to go wipe it out and redo - as it looked like there might be some trash in the track.

Sometimes the simplest solutions are best!

Thanks for your help!

[Wayne Collins]

our 2000 Scamp had the same hatch.
At times it would stick closed; like after sitting all winter.
Once popped loose though, it worked fine.

[Kenny in Ohio]

I have a 2013 16 Std. In 2014 the gears were shot in the crank body and forced the side plate outward. I can't prove it, but my wife is the only other person to be in the trailer. She has a habit of cranking the water faucets tightly closed, so I asked her and she denied ever touching it. So from that I determined that it self destructed. I bought a new crank mechanism at the RV store (make sure to get the proper length arm) and its all good now.