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Old 03-30-2008, 06:07 PM   #21
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And last, but not least, a shot of the neon tube. It was taken w/o flash. That amount of light should work fine in the kitchen area.



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You can barely see it, but my trail master emergency lantern is providing the juice. I'll cut the ciggy adapter off the 12" light and hard wire it when the time comes.
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Old 03-30-2008, 06:57 PM   #22
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I'm REAL curious about how the floor works out. That's what I want to do, but wasn't sure it would work on a fiberglass resin soaked flooring. So, please let us know how it goes and post some pictures too please
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:22 PM   #23
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I'm REAL curious about how the floor works out. That's what I want to do, but wasn't sure it would work on a fiberglass resin soaked flooring. So, please let us know how it goes and post some pictures too please
Will do. The floor is not original and I'm not certain of the finish, but I think this will work well.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:03 AM   #24
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I could really use a break from the rain.! Still all in all things are coming along. I'm attaching a Play Pac manual. Thanks Charlene, who is another PP owner from another group.


Playpac_Brochure_Manual_Restored.pdf
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:02 PM   #25
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Yes, I know it's been forever, but I celebrated the 70 degree weather here by getting the floor done. Finally!

Here's a link to the photobucket slide show of the day's activities.

Play Pac Floor Redone

I may well need to go get the clear sealer too, won't know until everything is completely dry -- 24 to 48 hours. It's supposed to stay warm that long.

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Old 05-24-2009, 06:11 PM   #26
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Well, after much thought and a bit of luck. I found someone to repair the street side window!!

So surgery began... On the repairman's advice I used a wood chisel to pop the rivet heads off. Worked really well.


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The following picture shows the riveted frame piece. The rivets went into the lip of the fiberglass part of the window, so out they came too. That's my friend Terry and her grand daughter's hands. They were peeling the mountains of putty away from the window frame.

Picture in the next post. Ran out of room.




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Old 05-24-2009, 06:20 PM   #27
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This is a shot of the metal joining piece. I broke one of them getting them out.


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After the rivets heads were all removed. And we worked for about an hour prying away the putty (I did wonder how on earth the thing leaked). I used a rubber mallet to break the window free. You can just see daylight in the upper left corner.


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These windows are one piece. There is no trim ring. They are riveted from the outside through the fiberglass side. Pretty cool design, actually.
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:38 PM   #28
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Here's a shot of the window as it came out of the trailer. The moving part of the window is actually not attached in any way. It rides in a groove and is held in place by the support arms when they are locked.. Which is why, when the arms on this window broke off, the owner, twice removed, screwed the window shut. Very messy. But the way the window is made, makes it really easy to fit an AC in there.


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Once out, I could see the tape used to put the window in 35 years ago was pretty much toast.


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There's wall damage to repair:


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The person doing the repairs worked in the RV industry for years. He's pretty certain he put the window back in usable condition. It's worth the attempt. Terry and I put a tarp over the trailer to protect the rest of the work I'm doing. It will be awhile before I get the window back, so I'm going to press ahead with everything else.

One thing I will do right away is make sure the other weep holes are open. This window was clogged with putty.

So, there you have it. Progress on the redo. I'm a happy camper, because I know I can reseal the other windows as they need it.

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Old 07-05-2009, 10:30 AM   #29
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Nice to see someone else with a Play-Pac! We bought ours about 2 years ago, and it was pretty awful inside. Painted very purple including the skylight! Also, they had a leak somewhere around the skylight, so had placed a tarp over it, and held it in place with a heavy tire and rim, so the roof near the door was sagging about 1 1/2".

The floor had gotten wet and was punky near the door, so, rather than replace it, they'd just added another 1" of plywood on top (heavy stuff).

We debated over what to do, while using it a few times and found that with essentially no insulation, if it was at all cold out, we'd wake up to the ceiling covered in moisture, and raining on us. So, we tore out all the fabric glued to the walls, and glued 1" polyfoam to the walls and ceiling. This was quite a puzzle piece job! Next, trying to come up with something to follow all the curves, we decided to experiment.

Would you believe, modified paper mache? We used a roll of heavy Kraft paper, purchased for dust backs on photo frames, cut into roughly 8"x12" chunks, dipped in slightly diluted carpenter's glue! It worked out quite well, although it was a very sticky, messy job! We used 2-3 layers and smoothed it with a squeegy.



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So far, so good, we painted it a light tan, with 2 coats of semi gloss latex.


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There's still a long ways to go, front cabinets need work and as I moved the stove, a new counter top too. The floor has to be re-done, and the exterior needs some minor work and paint.

For on the road power, I added a 40 solar watt panel, top quality 100 amp hour deep cycle sealed battery designed for solar systems, and charge controller. Since it had no roof vent, I also added one.

Oh yes, mustn't forget the struggle to straighten out the roof! I ended up shaping two clear 2x4's to fit the lengthwise curve and attaching then from underneat with long, stout screws and fender washers. They were primered and painted with top quality glossy paint before attaching, and placed in a bed of caulk to make sure there were no leaks. Good thing too, we went over to eastern oregon a couple weeks ago, and instead of hot and sunny, it poured the whole week.


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Good luck with your project, they are sure neat little trailers, great for getting into small and out of the way, back country campsites!

Steve
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:15 PM   #30
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Quote:
Nice to see someone else with a Play-Pac! We bought ours about 2 years ago, and it was pretty awful inside. Painted [b]very purple including the skylight! Also, they had a leak somewhere around the skylight, so had placed a tarp over it, and held it in place with a heavy tire and rim, so the roof near the door was sagging about 1 1/2".

The floor had gotten wet and was punky near the door, so, rather than replace it, they'd just added another 1" of plywood on top (heavy stuff).

We debated over what to do, while using it a few times and found that with essentially no insulation, if it was at all cold out, we'd wake up to the ceiling covered in moisture, and raining on us. So, we tore out all the fabric glued to the walls, and glued 1" polyfoam to the walls and ceiling. This was quite a puzzle piece job! Next, trying to come up with something to follow all the curves, we decided to experiment.

Would you believe, modified paper mache? We used a roll of heavy Kraft paper, purchased for dust backs on photo frames, cut into roughly 8"x12" chunks, dipped in slightly diluted carpenter's glue! It worked out quite well, although it was a very sticky, messy job! We used 2-3 layers and smoothed it with a squeegy. So far, so good, we painted it a light tan, with 2 coats of semi gloss latex.

There's still a long ways to go, front cabinets need work and as I moved the stove, a new counter top too.

Oh yes, mustn't forget the struggle to straighten out the roof! I ended up shaping two clear 2x4's to fit the lengthwise curve and attaching then from underneat with long, stout screws and fender washers. They were primered and painted with top quality glossy paint before attaching, and placed in a bed of caulk to make sure there were no leaks. Good thing too, we went over to eastern oregon a couple weeks ago, and instead of hot and sunny, it poured the whole week.

Steve
That interior looks so different. What a unique idea to finish it! Now, you've got me thinking. Actually, my interior has been painted before, so I'm planning on repainting.

I see in the before pic, you didn't have a cabinet by the door. Or did you take it out?

Also, how much would I need to wheedle to get paper templates of the two wall pieces? I'm almost ready to frame out the privacy room and it would go so much faster (and cheaper too) if I could get templates.

They are fun little trailers. The original owner and designer posts here occasionally. Bit of trivia for you, there were only 75 of these trailers made.

Inventor Thread


Edited to fix my errors in grammar.

Welcome to the gang.
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:38 PM   #31
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humm We don't have a Play Pac coming to the Oregon Gathering
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:29 PM   #32
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humm We [b]don't have a Play Pac coming to the Oregon Gathering
We live about 30 miles south of Bullards Beach, but are fairly tied up. We might be able to come up for a day, if there's anywhere we could park. I think overnight is out though!

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Old 07-05-2009, 07:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
That interior looks so different. What a unique idea to finish it! Now, you've got me thinking. Actually, my interior has been painted before, so I'm planning on repainting.

I see in the before pic, you didn't have a cabinet by the door. Or did you take it out?

Also, how much would I need to wheedle to get paper templates of the two wall pieces? I'm almost ready to frame out the privacy room and it would go so much faster (and cheaper too) if I could get templates.

They are fun little trailers. The original owner and designer posts here occasionally. Bit of trivia for you, there were only of these trailers 75 made.

Inventor Thread

Welcome to the gang.
I used part of the door cabinet, but the bottom was pretty water damaged. Since I decided the stove was too close to the front wall/window screen, I moved it and changed the design of the cabinet top. This also gives us more much needed counter space up front. There's just enough room under the stove overhang for feet, if sleeping lengthwise in the trailer. Both my wife and I are just short enough.

I'll see what I can do about templates on the Kraft paper. It's plenty long enough! I should be able to fold them to fit in a large manilla envelope. It may take me a week or so to get to it.

On second thought, after looking things over, this might not work! With 1" added to all interior walls, the whole template would be off. Let me know if you want to try working from this, you would have to make a new template from this that was 1" larger, parallel to the lines, possibly pretty tricky.

Steve
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:11 AM   #34
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Hi again!

I just couldn't make the meet at Bandon/Bullards Beach, too much to do, too little time!

I have made some more progress on the interior. The floor was punky around the door ( and a few other smaller spots), where it had leaked, obviously for a long time. I ended up cutting out a section about 2x3 feet and adding in some new plywood, with thin metal plates inset around the edges to tie it to the good floor. I then added 1/2" plywood over the whole thing, with wood screws on 8" centers in a grid.

I've now added 12" square, self stick linoleum tiles and it looks much better!

The wiring is now mostly done. Using a DPDT center off switch, I can now select power to the 3 outlets, from either outside line in, or inverter/battery. There are 12V outlets in a couple spots and 12V power available where ever we might want lights.

Still facing the water system and front counter/sink area, which needs work. The water system is torn out for cleaning, replacing, but we can get by without it for a while.

The 13" rims are original, just put new tires on, I wonder what hub caps fit these rims? Baby moons would look good on here! But, exterior cosmetics come in last place in our budget!

Steve

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Old 06-08-2011, 10:43 AM   #35
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Battery on play PAC?

hello
Could you tell me about your battery? I just bought the play PAC super hitch hut and I don't see a battery. Is it a factory option? Can I put one in? Also, you have hook ups for grey water to exit the camper and not go to a holding tank???? How did you do that???
Thank You for any help and info

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonnie View Post
Update. The PP is home and my wallet's lighter.

Had done:

A New Battery, box and 7 pin connection.
2 new tires and rims
New brake pads, etc. and hooked up.
Replaced door handle
Brake controller for the Jeep

Here's a couple of pics:

New battery.

Attachment 9444


New Tires with racing stripped rims. They are 14" rims and the folks at Camper Exchange said the ones on the trailer were actually car tires. These won't bang the inside of the wheel well so much.

Attachment 9445


Brake controller is a Tekonsha Primus 90155, proportional braking system. Box says it can control up to 3 braking axles, has a braking sensor, continual diagnostics to check the connection, a large digital readout, detachable power cord and quick release mounting system. 15 year warrenty. Under $100 and has a $20 rebate right now. Works great.
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:49 PM   #36
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Had mine added to the tongue. The Play Pac I owned didn't have anything. I added the battery. No water, tho on the original the water tanks were under the seating area.
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