Sealing Burro roof - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:43 AM   #1
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Name: Gene
Trailer: in the market
Kansas
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Sealing Burro roof

Just bought a 17' Burro, we had heavy rain and I found the bed cushions
soaked in the back room. The roof has spots of silicone.

Is there any thing I could use to completely seal the top?
It had silicone on the widows,could not open them.
Can I clean the silicone off and use acrylic latex around the perimeter
of the window? I would like to be able to open them.

Thanks, Gene
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Old 04-03-2014, 11:14 AM   #2
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Name: Gene
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Burro Leaks

If I take the rear side window out, can you find rubber to fit between
the perimeter of body and window?
Thanks, Gene
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:24 PM   #3
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I would be very surprised if it's the roof leaking. The vertical seam is actually fiberglassed shut and rarely leaks. However, it could very easily be the roof vent (or AC if you have it) that is leaking around the edges or the windows. The windows are the usual culprit, since they leak right down on the cushions and pillows of the bed. Both vent and window leaks are due to gaskets that have dried out and cracked. These can be replaced. Also, the windows should have weep holes in the outside lower track. These can be plugged, causing the water to rise up over the felt/rubber track and leak inside. Many people have tracked down leaking windows by having a partner hose down the trailer, focusing specifically on the window sides. With a flashlight, you can see the water running down, often a distance from the actual leak. While you may not be able to find the exact window track material, Perfect Fit has large variety of window channels that may work. They do work for the Burro's UHaul cousin!
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:26 PM   #4
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Good advice from Kevin, But we did have a couple leaks in our Uhaul roof seam. Also leaks around the windows, at the marker lights, and around the door hinges. Some leaks didn't show up using a stream of water from a hose, but would when it rained. The inner shell makes it difficult to find the source of the leaks. It takes just a very small split or crack in the window rubber to allow water to leak in.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:19 PM   #5
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Name: Gene
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After doing a search I took the window out and will
replace with butyl putty tape.
It's 3/4' wide and 1/8" thick..

Question: Is this thick enough? Should I run two layers?
I think now my roof is ok...after reading other posts
But the cushions were soak on the bottom..must have been
the window leaking...finally dawned on me. Vent may be leaking also.
Fan cover I mean.
Thanks for any help.
Gene
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:25 PM   #6
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Name: Gene
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Kevin

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin A View Post
I would be very surprised if it's the roof leaking. The vertical seam is actually fiberglassed shut and rarely leaks. However, it could very easily be the roof vent (or AC if you have it) that is leaking around the edges or the windows. The windows are the usual culprit, since they leak right down on the cushions and pillows of the bed. Both vent and window leaks are due to gaskets that have dried out and cracked. These can be replaced. Also, the windows should have weep holes in the outside lower track. These can be plugged, causing the water to rise up over the felt/rubber track and leak inside. Many people have tracked down leaking windows by having a partner hose down the trailer, focusing specifically on the window sides. With a flashlight, you can see the water running down, often a distance from the actual leak. While you may not be able to find the exact window track material, Perfect Fit has large variety of window channels that may work. They do work for the Burro's UHaul cousin!
Kevin where do you find the gasket? Thanks
BTW the center roof ridge has been grounded flat for some reason.
Does not have the burro roof look down the center.
Weep holes are clean...I checked with air and hose
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:08 PM   #7
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Some of the Escondido Burros had the seam leveled and sealed, rather than what you typically see. I have seen that many with the seam leveled, but they do exist from the factory.

I am not sure why they did some, and not the others. I just installed a floor in a 14 footer for a client recently and it did not have the typical seam. It gave me a chance to thoroughly exam the leveling and it looked secure and well done to me.
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:21 PM   #8
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Name: Gene
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burro flooring

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Originally Posted by Gina D. View Post
Some of the Escondido Burros had the seam leveled and sealed, rather than what you typically see. I have seen that many with the seam leveled, but they do exist from the factory.

I am not sure why they did some, and not the others. I just installed a floor in a 14 footer for a client and it did not have the typical seam.

I took up the carpet and the fiberglass floor looked like a butcher cut it.
I'm trying to even it up so I can install pergo wood floor.

Any ideas on how to cut it evenly?
I tried tin snips...thought maybe a small skill saw... set the blade shallow.
Thanks, Gene
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:46 PM   #9
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Unfortunately, you will need a new subfloor to get it level. The flanges you are trying to cut can be secured down to the original floor with deck screws every few inches. this makes them sit somewhat flat and ready for the subfloor.

The encapsulated floor has a "hump" in the center running the whole length of the coach and the encapsulate is full of lumps, bumps and other permanent nasties. You will never have good results unless a subfloor goes down.

I have done a couple Burros. I used birth plywood (Because it's really light) and shimmed up the low spots with scrap vinyl planking pieces, full length with excellent results. The one I just mentioned was done in 1/4" ply, at the owners insistence and against my recommendation, but it turned out surprisingly "OK". It only had a few creaks that the owner was OK with. (They were trying to save money) I used 1/2" in my own burro and had no such issues, but had to remount all the lower cubby doors due to the floor finish height.

BUT.. back to the original question from the OP..the roof.
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:59 PM   #10
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as an FYI, make SURE there is no wiring stuck under the flanges before you get out your drill and screws. Both the Escondido ones I have done had some sloppy wire dress and the trailer light wiring was jambed under a couple of the flanges instead of being routed in the nice slot provided for them. Escondido burros had some poor workmanship in surprising places.

My 13 ft Sac City Burro was nice and I had no such issues.

NOW back to your regularly scheduled roof questions... (Sorry!)
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:01 PM   #11
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Name: Gene
Trailer: in the market
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Subfloor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gina D. View Post
Unfortunately, you will need a new subfloor to get it level. The flanges you are trying to cut can be secured down to the original floor with deck screws every few inches. this makes them sit somewhat flat and ready for the subfloor.

The encapsulated floor has a "hump" in the center running the whole length of the coach and the encapsulate is full of lumps, bumps and other permanent nasties. You will never have good results unless a subfloor goes down.

I have done a couple Burros. I used birth plywood (Because it's really light) and shimmed up the low spots with scrap vinyl planking pieces, full length with excellent results. The one I just mentioned was done in 1/4" ply, at the owners insistence and against my recommendation, but it turned out surprisingly "OK". It only had a few creaks that the owner was OK with. (They were trying to save money) I used 1/2" in my own burro and had no such issues, but had to remount all the lower cubby doors due to the floor finish height.

BUT.. back to the original question from the OP..the roof.
Thanks a bunch..1/2' sounds like the way to go..and it's not expensive.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:04 PM   #12
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Hey, Gene, now that you have that coolio Burro, you can change your ID from 'in the market' to 17ft Burro!! Congrats on the new trailer. People love those Burros
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