Blasting Boler frame - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-14-2017, 03:00 PM   #1
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Name: Ronald
Trailer: Trillium 1979 13ft.
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Blasting Boler frame

Thinking of getting my frame soda or dry ice blasted, for a fresh rattle-can tune up. Shell still attached and will stay that way during blasting and painting. Will use nylon or poly sheets (cutting board sized) to protect soft stuff and wiring. Anyone done this and have any advice? Thanks!
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Old 02-14-2017, 07:23 PM   #2
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
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Originally Posted by Butsky View Post
Thinking of getting my frame soda or dry ice blasted, for a fresh rattle-can tune up. Shell still attached and will stay that way during blasting and painting. Will use nylon or poly sheets (cutting board sized) to protect soft stuff and wiring. Anyone done this and have any advice? Thanks!
I would recommend sand blast vs dry ice or soda. Dry ice is expensive and it is used to remove gunk without removing painted or powder coat finishes and is used in my industry to clean printing presses without damaging machined surfaces or certain finishes. I have used soda blasting as a cheaper alternative for the same. To remove paint or powder coatings I go for sand blasting which is much more effective for this purpose and far more economical than dry ice.

For your trailer frame if you want to do it yourself you could wire brush with an angle grinder and sand paper for the hard to reach areas but it will be time consuming but the least expensive of all.
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:43 PM   #3
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Blasting frame

When I did look underneath to see the fame, I saw no paint at all, just st a light rusty coating everywhere. No loose flakes anywhere. No way to get all thr corners and hard to reach areas by hand. I will pay someone for sure! Sand or walnut shell medium (or similar) I think its the route to go. A few black spray bombs later, she will be done. Sight unseen, one guy quoted about $100 or so. That is ok by me. Saves much grief and bother. Our Boler "Shelle" will be happy! Wondering if sand will be too harsh. See what blaster boy thinks about it as well. Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2017, 10:28 AM   #4
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Name: Michael
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Blasting is the best way to go, gets everything and its fast. Sand is very abrasive, careful as it will eat the softer surfaces. Make sure use a good respirator, NOT a paper dust mask, if you use sand. Repaint well with a rust inhibiting paint.
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Old 02-15-2017, 03:49 PM   #5
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We chose to 1st remove the shell; and then, sand blast ALL portions of the frame prior to spray painting. I don't understand how you could get the upper surfaces (those that collect the road debris, salt, etc.) satisfactorily cleaned and resealed (repainted !), without removing the shell ? Ours was done at a professional 'tractor-trailer' repair shop for about $250. which we considered well spent. (That included the same 'restoration' of the original steel wheel rims too.)
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:09 PM   #6
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Name: BARNEY
Trailer: CASITA
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White distilled vinegar is the best rust getter known & cheap! Pry cabin up from chassis with screw drives a small amount where possible. Spray vinegar in resulting void repeatedly for two/three days. Let it work. Scrap void with thin puddy knife or sand paper to that "stuff" out. Blast with h.p. Water-let dry. Spray void with good paint and remove wedges,done! Down and not so dirty!
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