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08-22-2016, 09:47 AM
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#21
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Member
Name: Bee
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
PE
Posts: 68
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[QUOTE=Jennygdeans;604727]Also, there is a metal beam that runs across the ceiling towards the front of the trailer. Is this standard for a Trillium Jubilee? Or is it something that was installed to fix some yet unseen problem?
Hi Jenny,
Some comments on your questions:
1-My jubilee has an intact roof, with continuous insulation and there is no metal support beam.
2-those bolts in the floor with square washers? They attach your jubilee to the trailer. Replace!! And yes, they will go through your subfloor.
3- the popcorn insulation usually comes off easily and can be carefully washed...if you choose.
I rebuilt my bunk, mostly...and did floor repairs too. If you want pics sent please ask!
Have fun,
Bee
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08-22-2016, 01:45 PM
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#22
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
Posts: 55
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Bee - The picture of your Jubilee never came through, can you post again? No metal beam eh... Have you ever removed the insulation on the ceiling? Do you think you might have a beam under the foam? I'm thinking it was added, and just want to be sure. I'm hoping to replace it altogether with better supportive cabinetry. I'll make sure to recess the new bolts through the subfloor. The insulation is wrong, and terrible, and full of mould - it has to go. I would love some pictures! I'm going at this blind. The bunk I will ask about down the road, rebuild seems a long way off. Some floor repair pics would be great!
Kai - Your Amerigo looks amazing. I can only hope to be as fibreglass patch efficient as Paul!
Cat - When you talk about broken welds, what do you mean? A multi-tool is on my tool to-buy list! Along with an orbital sander. Thanks!
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08-23-2016, 03:39 PM
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#23
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Member
Name: Bee
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
PE
Posts: 68
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jenny,
I will have to figure out the pics attachments thing (from an iPad)!
1-There is no metal beam at all, nothing under the insulation.
2- The bunks were one of my challenges too! There was only the sitting part. I did ask around and got some great pics from another owner. I can resend to you if you send me a private message with your email address....he sent me one of pics. I got the pics too late though and had already used guesswork to complete it. I used galvanized tubing from Kent and shower curtain rod holders as the tubing (bunk supports) holder. Piano hinge is a strong hinge, the stuff from the hardware store was not very wide and felt flimsy, so I found some at a boat/upholstery repair shop. Boat places have more in common with our little trailers than campers places sometimes! What the fiberglass needs confuses stick camper people sometimes
3- take tons of pictures! It helps when you are putting it back together!!! Keep anything slightly useful, even if it's rotted....sometimes it's the only one you will find at first while you keep looking for a replacement.
I'll keep on the pics quest...though taking JulieBee out for a trip for the next four days, won't be home for a little while
Happy Reno-ing!
Bee
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08-23-2016, 05:07 PM
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#24
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Junior Member
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 24
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Jennifer:
I posted pics for you on your facebook question..
There is no steel brace across the ceiling.
The cupboard on the door side that has the fridge in it does not touch the walls on mine either. In fact there is a false back to those cupboards that is at least 3" away from the wall. I'm trying to figure out a way to put a switch just inside the door and those false walls are making it troublesome. I believe (opinion) that the cupboard is attached at the roof and the floor but not at the wall.
In you pictures it looks like the small table and bench setup at the front is different than mine. Both of the benches on mine are much smaller. Unless its just the angle I'm looking at it from but I don't think so. The far bench from the door is the same width as the counter. The one beside the door is a duplicate. There is a ledge between them about 5" deep.
I used an air chisel to get my old floor up. It was the same as yours and all rotted out. When I replaced it I used an adhesive that a renovator friend of mine recommended and it is applied like foam. It is gap filling and allowed for a great and fairly easy install.. IF you like I can ask again what that product was.. IT's been a few years since I did mine.
Most likely you will need to remove your windows and I'm going to guess the plywood around them in a lot of cases will also be rotten.. Actually sounds more difficult than it is. Do yourself a favour though and replace all the screws with stainless.
I am more than happy to help you get through this.. Being in Ontario makes it difficult to actually come around and look see but pictures help somewhat.. I am in no way an expert but have been where you are now.. except maybe my ensolite was in good shape and all my cabinets are original.
If you need more pictures and measurements feel free to ask. She is just outside the door.
I actually like the wood cabinets but some people have painted them to sort of match the fiberglass look.. That's OK as well.
You will be very happy with your camper once you are done though. We absolutely LOVE ours
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08-23-2016, 06:39 PM
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#25
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
Posts: 55
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Thanks so much everyone, you've all been amazingly helpful!
I've taken out a good insulation and the bench that at the front. That was fairly straightforward.
Now it looks like this: (Well, sort-of, I forgot to take a picture without the insulation!)
It uncovered interesting things like this 'patch'. I'll have to deal with that later.
Also, this mess of wires.
These blocks of wood are randomly attached to the back of this section, it's where the bench was secured to the wall. This doesn't seem right. Any Jubilee owners mind checking their front bench to see how they are attached to the front wall?
My other big question is about the tops of window. Are they just attached to the piece of wood that runs around the upper part of the walls, below the shelves and the upper cabinets? I was surprised that this was it and that this piece is installed *over* the insulation. Seems strange. Anyone have any ideas why it might be like this? Is your trailer the same?
My other big challenge today was that I cannot for the life if me figure out how to remove the floor to ceiling fridge cabinet. I have removed every screw I can see, given it a good pounding with a mallet and it's still not moving (it budges slightly)! It's not attached at the ceiling, or the floor. My only guess is that it is glued to the wooden supports. I think I have to attack it with a reciprocating saw to get it out! I'm switching to removing the kitchen, but I'm not optimistic about the ease with which it will come out!
Picking up one of the two kids from camp tomorrow. My progress will be remarkably slower. But I'm looking forward to the stories!
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08-23-2016, 06:51 PM
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#26
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
Posts: 55
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Bee - I'm hoping to get rid of my beam. I'm not even sure it's helping... The shower rod holder things were installed on the bottom bunk, but no other hardware or cushions. I'll have to tackle that when the time comes.
I've contacted a local fibreglass place to see if I can get someone to come have a look at the structure, give a professional opinion about the beam and the rest of the mess! Thanks for keeping on the picture hunt!
Wayne - My fridge cabinet is attached at the wall (I think glued) at the bottom of the small top cabinet and the top of the fridge opening. My back was just open to the fibreglass. Good to know that yours is closed.
My area at the front is (was/will be) setup as bunks. The bottom bunk went all the way across with an area in the middle to slide a port potty.
The windows are on my hit list. I also need to replace the back one, half of it is fixed plexiglass and we want as much air circulation as possible! Thanks so much for your offer of help, and all the great Facebook pics. It's good to help visualize the final product!
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08-23-2016, 08:05 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 24
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Well the hinges and handles for the doors look right in the first pic. It could be that they just painted the wood.
The wiring in the second pic is pretty normal. All the wire for the trailer comes in that little spot. So your travelling lights like brakes and signals etc as well as the power from your battery.. Where does the larger white wire go to?
The Windows are installed using plywood all the way around like a frame. Not just the top but the sides and bottom as well. Yours is looking a little rough and my suggestion would be to replace it. The windows come out fairly easy. From outside the trailer you pull the black plastic cover off the frame of the window and under that is a bunch of screws. You remove those and take the window out from the bottom.. It will be sticky. Replace plywood frames and using butyl tape to seal reinstall the windows and I'd use stainless screws.
I went out with a flash light and had a look at my benches.. They are sitting on a ledge all the way around the wall and between them is a wooden ledge about 6" out from the front wall also sitting on a fiberglass ledge. In the outside corner is a chunk of wood behind the ensolite.
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08-24-2016, 05:11 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 700
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My 5500 has those wood blocks attached to the wall with fiberglass resin to hold the benches.
If the wood is still in good condition and can hold wood screws tight enough, that's fine.
Not sure why the wood frame of the windows is over the insulation, usually the insulation is glue on top of the wood. May be a previous owner did that to avoid re-gluing the insulation.
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08-24-2016, 07:24 AM
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#29
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Member
Name: Bee
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee
PE
Posts: 68
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Jenny,
Those random blocks are important. If they are solid and will hold a screw, leave them, they are your attachments to the fiberglass shell/structure. They should be Fiberglassed.
The bench frame rests on those random blocks and on an inner frame structure. Keep the shower curtain holders if they are metal, all I could find were cheap plastic...but they are just for stabilizing, so they work for me!
Keep the questions coming!
Haven't figured out the posting of pics....is there another way of getting a picture of sections to you?
Bee
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennygdeans
Thanks so much everyone, you've all been amazingly helpful!
I've taken out a good insulation and the bench that at the front. That was fairly straightforward.
Now it looks like this: (Well, sort-of, I forgot to take a picture without the insulation!)
Attachment 98856
It uncovered interesting things like this 'patch'. I'll have to deal with that later.
Attachment 98859
Also, this mess of wires.
Attachment 98858
These blocks of wood are randomly attached to the back of this section, it's where the bench was secured to the wall. This doesn't seem right. Any Jubilee owners mind checking their front bench to see how they are attached to the front wall?
Attachment 98857
My other big question is about the tops of window. Are they just attached to the piece of wood that runs around the upper part of the walls, below the shelves and the upper cabinets? I was surprised that this was it and that this piece is installed *over* the insulation. Seems strange. Anyone have any ideas why it might be like this? Is your trailer the same?
Attachment 98860
My other big challenge today was that I cannot for the life if me figure out how to remove the floor to ceiling fridge cabinet. I have removed every screw I can see, given it a good pounding with a mallet and it's still not moving (it budges slightly)! It's not attached at the ceiling, or the floor. My only guess is that it is glued to the wooden supports. I think I have to attack it with a reciprocating saw to get it out! I'm switching to removing the kitchen, but I'm not optimistic about the ease with which it will come out!
Picking up one of the two kids from camp tomorrow. My progress will be remarkably slower. But I'm looking forward to the stories!
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08-25-2016, 12:34 PM
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#30
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
Posts: 55
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So I started taking out the benches in the dining area today. The floor here was less water-damaged, but still in rough shape. As I pulled it up I discovered that there were quite a few ants that had taken up residence in the wood. I'm really glad that it's all going!
As I ripped out the step, the wires were cleverly hidden behind. I'll have to remember this!
The big question of the day came up when I removed the centre section. What should I do with the water tank? Is it essential to the water operation if I hook it up at a campground?
My inclination is to get rid of it. Less to worry about. Anyone have an argument to keep it? If I do get rid of it, what do I put in this space when I rebuild - just leave a void?
I'm attacking the fridge cupboard tonight with my new reciprocating saw! Figured it would be good to wait until a backup adult was around in case I need to call in reinforcements!
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08-25-2016, 01:40 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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Back at ya!
Just to let you know there are lots of us out there in the same state as you with your trailer, and many more women than I would have expected.
As you have already discovered this is a great community for support and help.
You are off to a roaring start. Well done.
Took this several weeks ago:
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08-25-2016, 06:47 PM
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#32
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
Posts: 55
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Patricia - Thank you for your kind words! This community has been amazing. And yes, it's great to see so many women on here digging in!
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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08-25-2016, 07:51 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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A few good arguments for keeping the tank are
Your not going to use the space for anything else anyway.
It is not heavy, (empty).
Another future purchaser may want it, and who knows, maybe you may want it one day. Ever plan to go to Burning Man?
If you do remove it, post it for sale, or store it. Throwing it away would be a shame.
That said, I never use mine. Seems like a lot of maintenance to me. I use bottled water for drinking, and cooking, and campground water for washing. Also, if you do remove it, then that space could be accessible for storage, with a trap door.
Oh ya, Maybe think of adding your Trillium to the serial number list.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ium-56121.html
Maybe start at the back and work your way forward.
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08-26-2016, 12:35 PM
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#34
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
Posts: 55
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David - Still contemplating the water tank, but you made some good points. Maybe I will keep it...
So I started looking at what I will need to do to take out the kitchen. I removed the sink. And have detached the stove, except for the propane line. Can I safely remove this myself? Do I need to cap it off? There is no propane tank. I'm not sure I even want to install propane when I start putting things back together. Much like the water tank, it just seems easier. Any thoughts on this?
I also came across this indent on the door side of the trailer just behind the wheel well. Any ideas why it would be there? There is not a matching one on the other side.
With the purchase of a reciprocating saw and a Dremel multi-tool, I was able to finally remove the fridge cabinet!
At the bottom there are two separate holes that wires run through. Should I leave these? Patch one and make the other bigger so they can both run through the same hole?
Of course there were nasty surprises too! Where the cabinet met the ceiling, the fiberglass is staring to give way. It looks like maybe someone attempted to do something, but only with silicone on the roof. Ugh. After I patch it, will it be strong enough to support the cabinet which itself is a support structure? I don't need to drill it out do I - I assume I can just clean it up and patch it with the remaining structure in place?
Roof crack on the ceiling on the left side of the fridge cabinet.
Roof crack on the ceiling on the right side of the fridge cabinet.
Not to be outdone, the front left corner of the wheel well also has a large crack.
Things seem to be working on the one-step-forward-two-steps-back rule of thumb. But it's all progress - right?!?
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08-29-2016, 10:45 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Fibreglass is amazingly easy to work with.
Sand it clean
Mix up some polyester resin
Paint it on the freshly sanded glass
Put on some fibreglass mat
Paint, or dab on more resin to saturate the mat
Repeat the last 3 steps as required
The resin starts to harden in about 20 min. So don't mix up too much.
As long as the propane is off, you can remove the propane line. It can be removed from the stove with a wrench. That is a flare fitting, and the nut will stay on the propane supply line.
This stuff necessary is all available at Princess Auto.
The indent by the door looks to be for a through shell fitting. Maybe for an electrical inlet?
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08-29-2016, 11:01 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
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My guess on the blue and white wire at the wheel well is for electric brakes.. Does the other side have the same wires.. My Trillium 4500 has the same wires and they are for electric brakes...
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08-29-2016, 06:34 PM
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#37
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Trillium
Nova Scotia
Posts: 55
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Progress and questions...
David - Propane line is out. The trailer didn't come with a tank, so I figured I was okay to proceed! I have a boating friend who is trading fibreglass tutorials for some ribs on our smoker - deal!
Randy - I'll have to check the other side, but there is no controller for electric brakes - maybe it's missing?
And then there was nothing. Except for a large pile of waste!
The inside is pretty barren.
What a mess of wires!
And of course, more questions...
What do you think this second hole beside the propane line might be for?
Does it really look like this added metal roof support is doing *any* good?
When I took off the interior casing for the fan, layers of the plywood fell down. It was that rotten.
Now on to the practical next step questions. I can handle sanding/scraping off all the lingering insulation, dried resin, and wood fibres from the shell to clean it up. But next I want to remove and reseal all the openings (windows, door, vents) so that I can get the shell leak free.
How do I remove these - I think they are pop rivets?!? And then how do I reattach it to the shell?
The wood framing around the windows need to be replaced in some parts. How do I attach the new pieces of wood? Some of the old pieces were attached with glue/resin and screwed to the shell from the outside. What do I do with these screws that are rusted and sticking into the shell where the wood used to be? They are fibreglassed in on the outside of the shell. (Is this making sense?!?)
Thanks everyone for your wise words!
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08-29-2016, 07:57 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
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The controller wouldn't be in the trailer, it would be in the tow vehicle... The pop rivets can be easily removed by drilling them out, if they are 3/16 pop rivets then use a 3/16 bit, if 1/8 use a 1/8 bit... To re-attach just re-pop rivet them back in with the same size rivets once you clean the vents if that's you plans...Glue the wood strips around the windows and use c-clamps to hold them until it dries..
I replaced all the screws around the windows with stainless steel screws I bought off E-bay.. I bought 1" number #10 I think, I know they were 1" and I bought like 1000 for a small amount and I've been using them about every day. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they carry small plastic bends of several different sizes and types of stainless steel screws, bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts.. I bought several and use the screws and bolts from window crank handles to holding the stove in place... never use something that will rust away, just doesn't make sense.....
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08-29-2016, 08:11 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
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Harbor Freight carries pop-rivets in several different sizes also, buy really all you will need is a few 1/8 and several 3/16, they have Pop-rivet pliers also (the tool you need to install pop-rivets).
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08-29-2016, 09:53 PM
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#40
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Member
Name: Anne-Marie
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 73
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Goodness! You have quite a project ahead of you but are attacking it with gusto! It will be great to watch your project progress.
I will throw my two cents in concerning your water tank. I took one look at the grungy 40 year old tank and water lines and decided to chuck the whole thing! The tank was damaged anyway and neither the city water faucett or the pump faucett worked. I decided I'd rather have more storage space under the dinette seat and I could just carry jugs of water if boondocking.
I replaced the city water system with new tubing and a new goose neck "bar sink" faucett from Lowe's, capping off the unneeded hot water line. It fit just nicely into the old pump faucett hole.
__________________
"The true adventurer goes forth aimless and uncalculating to meet and greet unknown fate...O. Henry"
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