1978 Boler Complete Restoration / Rebuild - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:19 PM   #61
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Name: Slavomir
Trailer: 1978 Boler
Washington
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Foam Tape

The old frame caused damage to the underside of the carriage by grinding out some of the fiberglass and depositing a good bit of rust. I'm going to have to put down (or rather up!) some fiberglass mat in these channels for strength before basting the whole underside with Herculiner.

Here are a couple pics of the damage:

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In order to have a bit of a barrier between the new frame and the carriage, I've decided to use a truck canopy foam tape "seal". This is sticky on one side, made of closed-cell high-density foam (so they say). Picked it up at Lowe's for about $6 per 30 ft roll - got two rolls and have a few feet left. (This is similar, I believe, to what Robert Johans used on his 1974 Boler renovation.)

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Here is the frame with the tape on. I left the protective paper on for now, but will remove it right before the carriage goes back down.

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Old 02-25-2013, 02:39 AM   #62
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S & H,
Really nice work on your BOLER so far! Look forward to see how it moves forward and how the finished product looks like!

I also have a full FG body on a clean frame, 79 model boler and have spent most if my planning time looking at interior design desition a, floor an etc.

I am yet to begin improving the chassis to body match ( I need to replace screws , etc, and complete frame / suspension mods (previous owner instAlled rigid axle on leaf springs....!)

I'll post some pics and start a Reno thread for you all to check out!
Keep up the good work,

Cheers,
L
E
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:28 AM   #63
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S & H,
Really nice work on your BOLER so far! Look forward to see how it moves forward and how the finished product looks like!

I also have a full FG body on a clean frame, 79 model boler and have spent most if my planning time looking at interior design desition a, floor an etc.

I am yet to begin improving the chassis to body match ( I need to replace screws , etc, and complete frame / suspension mods (previous owner instAlled rigid axle on leaf springs....!)

I'll post some pics and start a Reno thread for you all to check out!
Keep up the good work,

Cheers,
L
E
Thanks Luis! Looking forward to seeing your progress as well!

Slav
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:26 PM   #64
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hey slav

I going to use the same camper seal on my uhaul. i hope it works. are you putting anything else between the shell and the frame or just the camper seal?
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:04 PM   #65
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Of course, I can't see or scratch my fingernails into the damage in those photos, but it doesn't look severe enough to need repair. If it did need repair (say, it had lost a quarter of its original thickness), adding glass to the top side rather than underneath would be perfectly good enough - unless you want a cosmetically perfect repair, which would seem a bit extreme on the underside of your trailer.

The foam tape looks a good plan to stop the problem continuing.

For the channel repairs, I would be tempted to pack out the sides of the new frame and then cover it all over in plastic sheet (brown plastic packaging tape is another good rough-and-ready release agent). You could then drop the body over the frame and simply laminate onto the existing body and the plastic. It would be good to lift the body and remove the packing/plastic, but not essential except for a nice appearance.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:25 PM   #66
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hey slav

I going to use the same camper seal on my uhaul. i hope it works. are you putting anything else between the shell and the frame or just the camper seal?
Hey Andrew, I'm planning on putting down the camper seal only. I originally thought of putting something thicker (made also of foam but with two air pockets/channels - these were used in the camper shell industry before everyone went "cheap"), but I'm hoping this will be sufficient for the job.

Slav
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:28 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Andrew Gibbens View Post
Of course, I can't see or scratch my fingernails into the damage in those photos, but it doesn't look severe enough to need repair. If it did need repair (say, it had lost a quarter of its original thickness), adding glass to the top side rather than underneath would be perfectly good enough - unless you want a cosmetically perfect repair, which would seem a bit extreme on the underside of your trailer.

The foam tape looks a good plan to stop the problem continuing.

For the channel repairs, I would be tempted to pack out the sides of the new frame and then cover it all over in plastic sheet (brown plastic packaging tape is another good rough-and-ready release agent). You could then drop the body over the frame and simply laminate onto the existing body and the plastic. It would be good to lift the body and remove the packing/plastic, but not essential except for a nice appearance.
Andrew, you are right, most of the deposited rust is just that. But in the first pic in my post #61 the fiberglass is actually gouged out a couple millimeters and for that reason I was going to put a layer or two of mat. I think that will be sufficient and once coated with the truck bed-liner type of stuff the whole thing should be good and strong.

Thanks for your suggestions!

Slav
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:41 PM   #68
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Trailer: 1973 Boler
Alberta
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Slav, I've been following your build on your 78. We have a 73 13 ft. I have a few questions. I need to change my axle as well. Did you phone Dexter direct for the info on it or was it a dealer. I sell trailers with these axles under them but they 7,8 and 10#. You were mentioning a #9 axle, is that what we need for a Boler or is that what they came up with. I just read the last of your thread today. Have you had the trailer on the ground yet, and if so how far is the body of the trailer off the ground. Our tow vehicle is a 70 Chevelle and I'm interested in how it sits. Just looking at your new frame, makes me think that I should do the same thing. Looking underneath, it don't look so good. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build.
Vic.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:44 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by vics454 View Post
Slav, I've been following your build on your 78. We have a 73 13 ft. I have a few questions. I need to change my axle as well. Did you phone Dexter direct for the info on it or was it a dealer. I sell trailers with these axles under them but they 7,8 and 10#. You were mentioning a #9 axle, is that what we need for a Boler or is that what they came up with. I just read the last of your thread today. Have you had the trailer on the ground yet, and if so how far is the body of the trailer off the ground. Our tow vehicle is a 70 Chevelle and I'm interested in how it sits. Just looking at your new frame, makes me think that I should do the same thing. Looking underneath, it don't look so good. I'm looking forward to the rest of the build.
Vic.
Hi Vic,

I went thru a local dealer to get the #9 axle. You may be able to get the axle direct from Dexter, but if not, they should be able to get you a distributor list closest to your area (I know there is a dealer in Canada that many people have used with great experience, but can't remember who it is...drop Donna D. a message and she should know it).

The #9 is the appropriate weight for our 13 ft Bolers and Scamps - when you're talking about the Torflex axle (many people have used this and that is how we knew what to do).

Remember that you will probably have a leading axle but I recommend you switch to a trailing when you get it. At the welder, they'll be able to calculate the positioning (the hubs basically need to be in the same place as your old one, the rest is easy). Also get the e-brakes (magnetic brakes) as I understand they are a huge help when braking. Your car will need a 7-pin connector.

Before you can order the axle, you'll need to pull out the old frame, remove the wheels and make very careful measurements based on Dexter's instructions. It is easy, but measure 3 times because the sales are final since the axles are made custom.

Yes, I had lowered the body back on the new frame several times for adjustments, but don't have any pics...will hopefully soon. I'm working on the underside right now. It sits great, so much better than before (it was almost bottomed out before). I should mention we went with a 10 degree DOWN axle and a high profile mounting bracket that gives it about another 1 inch rise. This doesn't make it crazy looking but will be high enough to go on even rough dirt roads.

If you plan to enjoy your trailer for a long time, definitely consider having a new frame made with modifications.

If you haven't done it yet, do start a thread for your renovations. We all love to see and share ideas! Feel free to ask other questions.

Best,
Slav
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:43 PM   #70
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Thanks for that Slav. I've sent a note to Donna and I'll wait for answer. In the mean trime I will get together with our service manager tomorrow and make some calls. When the time comes I'll send along some pics.
Vic.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:52 PM   #71
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Someone has change the axle. It has a spring set up under it now. The one thing I don't like is it sits way to high for the car. I was under it last summer and it looks like the flooring has been change. It has a presure treated floor under it and when installed it, they screwed the flooring down from the top. So like it has 100 screws coming down through the framing. I don't remember the four mounting pionts you were talking about. I'll have to waite until the weather gets warmer, because the shop is small and the car will have to be outside to do the work. Thanks again, Vic.
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:38 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by vics454 View Post
Someone has change the axle. It has a spring set up under it now. The one thing I don't like is it sits way to high for the car. I was under it last summer and it looks like the flooring has been change. It has a presure treated floor under it and when installed it, they screwed the flooring down from the top. So like it has 100 screws coming down through the framing. I don't remember the four mounting pionts you were talking about. I'll have to waite until the weather gets warmer, because the shop is small and the car will have to be outside to do the work. Thanks again, Vic.
Vic,

The older Bolers had a wood floor that was glassed in. Ours is one piece molded fiberglass, so the frame anchor points are different from yours. Have a look at Robert Johans' 1974 Boler reno, that should be more like yours.

Slav
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:03 AM   #73
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Wheel Well Issue...Or Is It?

Seems like every Boler I've seen on this forum has wheel wells that are flat on top and attach direct to the wall giving plenty of space for your tires. Well, we ended up with some screwy ones that are "mounds"...for skinny bicycle tires it seems!

The way it is, the outsides of the tire/wheel will likely hit the wheel well side on bigger bumps or rough roads. (But I don't know how much movement the 10 degree down axle will have in the up motion.) I am thinking I might have to cut out the problem area (marked with red arrow in the below pic) and glass in a shape that will give more space to the wheels.

Thoughts on this?

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Old 02-28-2013, 05:50 AM   #74
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That looks like an easy fix. Carefully cut it away from the outside wall, trim it up to where you want it, then box it in. It is an area that won't be seen so doesn't have to be pretty just strong.
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:29 PM   #75
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Wheel wells

Slav, here are the pics from my reno.
Also separate wheel wells (not attached to wall)

i think it depends what axle/suspension set up installed, and also wheel and tire size, but I have not noted any interference due to this separate WW design.

In my case i was focusing on a problem my leaf spring set up is causing the underside. I will open a tread to get feed back so I look forward to valuable comments.

Hope the pics help. One is from the outside ! that is underside of WW.
Cheers
L

PD The WW in your pic Slav looks much "thinner" that in my Boler. Perhaps that is why you are seeing the tires interfere with the well....
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:30 AM   #76
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Slav, here are the pics from my reno.
Also separate wheel wells (not attached to wall)

i think it depends what axle/suspension set up installed, and also wheel and tire size, but I have not noted any interference due to this separate WW design.

In my case i was focusing on a problem my leaf spring set up is causing the underside. I will open a tread to get feed back so I look forward to valuable comments.

Hope the pics help. One is from the outside ! that is underside of WW.
Cheers
L

PD The WW in your pic Slav looks much "thinner" that in my Boler. Perhaps that is why you are seeing the tires interfere with the well....
Wow, looks like yours indeed are wider than ours. Seems like Boler was experimenting with just about everything and there is no consistency. I guess I'll have to hack them open and do a modification.

Thanks again.

Man, that looks like metal is crumpled in that 3rd pic.

Slav
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:51 AM   #77
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Amazing! Well done.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:22 PM   #78
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Slav

Just think, when you get the back side of the wheel well removed and glassed in to the wall, you can put huge width tires on. Like the Harley Davidson bike called the fat boy, and call your ride a "FatBoler"! What a concept!

Later Kenny
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:32 PM   #79
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Slav

Just think, when you get the back side of the wheel well removed and glassed in to the wall, you can put huge width tires on. Like the Harley Davidson bike called the fat boy, and call your ride a "FatBoler"! What a concept!

Later Kenny
Ha, that's a good one Kenny! I was going to go with larger tires, but decided to not complicate things. They are still a bit larger than the originals and I noticed when the body was down that I may need more space because of how tapered those crazy wells are. Wish I didn't have to but I want it done right!

Cheers,
Slav
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:40 PM   #80
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Belly Stickers

Today I didn't feel like messing with fiberglass sanding, so on to the next thing. It was time to get rid of those orange/olive belly stickers on our Boler. My hope was to get rid of them with a razor rather than having to sand them off. It worked.

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While scraping the stickers away I noticed small spots of mold underneath them, probably feeding on that glue.

Just used a glass scraper and a bunch of blades to get this stuff off.

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