A/C Woes- Climb on top of Scamp?

[Keaner]

I would call an equipment rental company and have them drop enough scaffold to build over top. From what I remember from my framing days years ago you'll need 6 end pieces bridged by 2 centers.

I should add scaffold usually has cross members to tie the legs together and stop them from spreading. You'd have to rig that someway... maybe straps under the trailer.

[Darral T.]

Mon:
Go back and check out my link on the carport. No matter if the tin was removed, it's still too high above the A/C to do any good.

Carol:
You're exactly right in that the FL is the easiest AND quickest. But I'd have to do it at work and I just wont breach the teaching....not worth it.

lwehrly:
I have mixed emotions on the top A/C. I like it up there out of the way. BUT, I told Dave @ Scamp yesterday that if I had it to do all over, I'd skip the $650 option, buy a Wally World $100 A/c....when it gives trouble, throw it away and go get another one! Plus, my Coleman weighs 93 lbs, the $100 units about 40! Soooo...it's a tradeoff here. In the cool weather though, it wouldnt even have to ride along. Lower drag and lighter. I would have my $100 A/C set on the bed while traveling. I'd make an angle iron tray to slide it into the back window when camping. If I were buying new today, would I skip the roof-mount A/C? At this point, I simply dont know.

CA & Steve D:
Well, I can PROMISE you my wife wont be up there. She's just not the "handy" type and wouldnt know what to do when she did.

CA, I've thought about the ladders and board. But the deal is, I'm going to be all over that A/C- especially working out of the center of it! So, I'm going to need a larger platform than a board. I did have another brainstorm while out today. I can use "chains" and make a simple ply platform to suspend from the center of the carport. I may secure the outer edge to the carport so it wont get me "swinging" in the air. This WONT be a pleasure trip so I dont want to be swinging!!

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Keaner

I would call an equipment rental company and have them drop enough scaffold to build over top. From what I remember from my framing days years ago you'll need 6 end pieces bridged by 2 centers.

I should add scaffold usually has cross members to tie the legs together and stop them from spreading. You'd have to rig that someway... maybe straps under the trailer.

When I first realized that my fear of falling off my Scamp's roof was going to keep me on the ground, I went to a large equipment rental co. and priced the rental of a very small electric powered scissor-type platform lift. I can't remember the actual rental fee for one day's use...but, with the lift delivery and pickup cost, the price was about $350.00!

Needless to say...I'm still waiting for a much cheaper method! However, I didn't check the price for renting scaffolding. That sounds like a good method and idea.

I believe if I was only worried about damaging the roof, I'd just lay a large sheet of 3/3 plywood width-wise across the top of the trailer and lay on it todo the work.

Bill

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Bill Nolen

I believe if I was only worried about damaging the roof, I'd just lay a large sheet of 3/3 plywood width-wise across the top of the trailer and lay on it todo the work.

Bill

From working on my patio roof, I can tell you that works well, until you hear CRACK!!!

[Bill Nolen]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

From working on my patio roof, I can tell you that works well, until you hear CRACK!!!

Bill

[steve dunham]

Place 2 full sections of scaffolding with cross braces on either side of your trailer . Run planks with cleats from scaffold to scaffold .
We did this many times when working over the top of stationary equipment . This set up is extremely stable because of the large base of the scaffold on either side . Two adult males can work off the platform without issue.

[Darral T.]

I took another photo of the top of my Scamp this afternoon to help see what I'm up against. It's not about just laying a piece of plywood up there with internal bracing. SO, I may still use something inside to support the A/C in case I'm leaning on it, but obviously from this photo, you can see I WILL need a "platform" of sorts.

[CamperBill]

Before we owned a Fiberglass camper, owned a LivinLite CampLite 11 all aluminum camper. Had the rubbing sound in the 13.5K Coleman Polar Mach AC while on a 6000 mile round trip out west. Stopped using the AC until getting back home. Was not aware of the modification drilling a hole in the fan shaft, but here's the repair. This metal roof/structure was OK for walking on.

Like the idea of renting scaffolding to get on top of the Scamp. Assume your 9.2K AC is similar the the 13.5K unit.

Found item #9, blower wheel clamp was a little loose clamping the blower to item #3, blower motor shaft. The blower slid down about 1/4" rubbing item #16, scroll housing.

13,500 Coleman Polar Mach parts diagram:

Laurelhurst Distributors Parts Breakdown - Air Conditioners

Removed AC cover:



Blower motor and top sheet-metal cover to be removed:



Where blower was contacting scroll housing:



Blower:



Blower slid down on motor shaft:



Motor shaft in good condition and securing nuts secure:



Re-positioned & secured blower on motor shaft:



The noise is gone and AC cooling great. Had about 20,000 miles on this travel trailer before selling when we purchased a fiberglass trailer!

[Raz]

It seems to me you could make your own scaffold using 2x lumber and some plywood for gussetting. I'm sure you would find other uses for the lumber when the job is done. One can never have enough 2x4's.

[Darral T.]

Camper Bill!

I cant thank you enough for those photos!! That's exactly the diagram I have of my A/C. From what the techs have told me, my 9200 will be identical inside...maybe a bit smaller?

But the old saying "A picture is worth a thousand words" was never more true than here with the pics you've sent. The ONLY thing is, that fan will eventually slide down again (but you wont know about it ). I definitely see the design error(s). Trying to grip with the cheesy green clamp. Wow... Well I sure dont have to worry about "balance" because that clamp is nowhere NEAR balanced. Gee. A water hose clamp would have been MUCH stronger! Guess it cost too much...

Forums can be handy. And for me and this forum, you've enlightened me greatly as to what to expect. I wont pound you with questions, but I will ask...it looks as if you had about 7 screws to take out to raise the plate/motor combination up and out of the A/C? I see 5 wires on the motor; I probably wont, but I'd sure like to have the motor on my work bench for repair. I can also see where I would probably have to cut the fan blade clamp area off some in order to get a set collar on the end. But then, I'd want to dimple the shaft for the set screw to set in so I wouldnt be creating yet another slipping device.

Thanks again my friend!! THIS is truly what forums are about.

[CamperBill]

Seven screws sound about right to lift the motor/cover. Did not disconnect the wires for my repair, but disconnecting wires would be easier if you plan to drill or dimple the motor shaft. I would not cut the shaft shorter. There are different clamps available that are more substantial than the original clamp, too. A substantial clamp probably will not affect balance, as long as the clamp is compact. Currently have poor connectivity in the mountains, for now. Good luck on the repair.

[CamperBill]

Ran into another problem while on this AC project.

Found the AC securing bolts were loose. Removed the interior cover, found one of the four bolts had broken and the others were loose. The AC movement may have contributed to the fan blower slipping down on the motor shaft.

Found 4 new grade 5 hex head cap screws at a local nut/bolt distributor. Installed them and used blue Permatex medium strength thread locker. Blue thread locker on bolt threads can be un-threaded easily without applying heat during the next job.

Laurelhurst Distributors Parts Breakdown - Air Conditioners

[Darral T.]

Bill...thanks yet again for that information. While I have my main panel down, I will check those 4 bolts. My unit doesnt look rusted, but I still want to check those bolts. One thing comes to mind, I can live with a rubbing fan til I get home. But IF those bolts decides to part ways, you WILL lose that A/C on the road!!

[Darral T.]

Below are photos during my repair. Bill posted some excellent ones of his. One thing I wanted to bring out though, was the platform I used to get on top of my Scamp. This was the brunt of the topic here - actually more than the fix. The fix was "simple" once you could get to it!

The platform I used was actually simple in design and cheap to build. I already had the 4'x 4' piece of 19/32 ply, straps, C-clamps etc. As you will see, I took GREAT advantage of my carport that was already in place. I ran into a few quirks with the repair, but honestly, the platform worked flawlessly and really saved my Scamp! You will also notice one photo of the internal bracing. Sorry...I forgot to take an actual photo, but the modified pic is identical to the way I braced up inside against the A/C's frame. Having to lean over on my unit during repair gave me peace of mind knowing the brace was there!

This fix shown on the shaft is recommended by the factory- sorta. They used a flatwasher and a self-tapping screw. I drilled and tapped the hole and used a socket head cap screw. I also made a spacer (shown as well) to slide the fan a little higher up on the shaft. It's not suppose to be "flush" to the end- which is what the washer would allowed. Although the tech said it would be ok, I decided to take it a little further and dont regret it.

Thanks for all the suggestions! I love a challenge, but I’d rather save that for mods...not repairing Coleman’s goof! :-) If you have any questions fire away. As with any project, there’s always a better way, or maybe I should/shouldnt have done this or that. Other than forgetting to shake up my loctite (it was a small tube so it should be ok), I was happy with everything I did. I’ve ran the A/C several hours since the repair with no issues. It’s very smooth with a comfort in my mind knowing the rubbing/scrapping sound is gone! The Scamp came out unscathed and THAT was very important to me and the wife as well! My neck aint broke....well...that’s good too...right?

[CamperBill]

Excellent scaffold and good looking shaft improvement!!!!!

Nice Work!

[Bill Nolen]

Wow! Darral, I'm really impressed with the platform that you made!

Just shows that if there is a will...there is a way! For a Southern Guy, anyway!

Sure wish I had a carport!

Bill

[Donna D.]

Darral, I'm interested in knowing who built the carport. I need to have mine raised and I've been unable to find the correct size metal for the legs!


TIA!!

[Darral T.]

Thanks "Bill" (I think that gets BOTH of ya...). Needless to say, I've stored the "platform" away with all the blocks etc. I've always wondered HOW I would perform maintenance upon top of the Scamp and this will be my answer. I have it where it's adjustable in height of course- thus the C-Clamps and blocks. Then the straps will always be adjustable as well. This would work out well if I need to go over the awning on the "Curb" side.

[Darral T.]

This is an Eagle carport. WELCOME TO OUR SITE Below is an excerpt concerning the tubing. I chose the 12Ga (Heavier wall) which makes my tubing size 2-1/4" square. I also added 1' to the height of mine when I had it installed. I'm glad for BOTH upgrades as you can see the barely-enough-room clearance and the C-Clamps have alot of pressure on the tubing holding the vertical blocks. If this was the 14 Ga 2-1/2 x 2-1/2 tubing frames, I fear the C-clamps would have tried to collapse it!

Here's the excerpt:
What materials are used to make the structures?

The majority of components utilized in our frames are made of 2 1/4" by 2 1/4" galvanized steel tubing for 12 gauge buildings and 2 1/2" by 2 1/2" for 14 gauge buildings

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Darral, I'm interested in knowing who built the carport. I need to have mine raised and I've been unable to find the correct size metal for the legs!


TIA!!

[Donna D.]

Thanks Darral for the info. Sigh, that won't work for me. The legs on my carport at 2"x3". Dang.