1993 Scamp 16' repair and remodel - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:54 PM   #21
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However, I was wondering if any of you would like to advise me on any specific part of this form
Bill,
The diagrams in the various forms here might help.
Download Axle Forms

When I mentioned the bolt on bracket to you, I see that Dexter/Torflex calls theirs the AP bracket, Al-Ko calls theirs the SMA bracket.

Crawl under that trailer of yours one more time and you might find a tag on the axle. I found one on my trailer that was 21 years older than yours.

I second the thought of bringing the trailer to them. That way they can give you an opinion on the frame. Try giving Scamp Parts a call.
http://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-store-cat-view.html
They might be able to give you a price on a frame and/or axle. Or at least they should be able to give you the specs to order an axle locally.
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:01 PM   #22
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1993 Scamp 16' repair and remodel

Makes sense... I noticed they use Torflex axles. Not sure, but I think Scamp uses Dexter or Al-Ko. If the axle arms are a different length, it may affect the attachment point on the frame.

Also, you'll need to know the original arm angle on the factory axle. You may be able to find out here, or you can call Scamp. I believe at least one forum member has upgraded to 15" wheels on a 16' Scamp. I'm not sure if that requires a different arm angle. Larger wheels and tires give you a bit more clearance and weight-carrying margin.

Last, until recently Scamp welded the axle to the frame. Now I believe they weld a mounting bracket to the frame and bolt the axle to the bracket. That may come up in your discussion with the shop.

Just some issues to think about...
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:51 PM   #23
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^ Torflex is a model line of Dexter
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:40 PM   #24
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Current Axle Tag

Here's the tag from our current axle. I crawled under the trailer in the wet dark to get this picture and then we measured the dimensions: 47" center to center of the frame and 67 5/8" from wheel face to wheel face. There's lots of information on that ol' tag. (yes, I know the pictures upside down. I was too lazy to correct this one)
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Old 12-04-2015, 07:14 AM   #25
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Inspection Completed

We have successfully passed the class B inspection required by the state. I have the certification sticker and will scheduling an appointment at Central Kentucky Truck & Trailer-Service Department to have the frame inspection and to take measurements for a replacement axle. Moving ahead.
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:28 PM   #26
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Let the demo begin

We removed the ancient Sealand toilet today. That was nasty! We're switching the the Thetford cassette so we don't have to haul around a dirty old poop hose.
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Old 12-06-2015, 12:59 PM   #27
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Been wondering about the shell of our Scamp...when I look at it, I see a lot of rivet caps so I'm compelled to think about replacing each one when we try to lift the walls and support the body sag.

Specifically, should we remove all of the furniture while supporting the roof, drilling out the existing rivets, and then reinstall the furniture drilling new holes for new rivets or bolts/acorn nuts and fresh caps? Then, fill the old holes and have the shell repainted professionally.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:38 AM   #28
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Random thoughts...

How do you know the shell is sagging? If all the original cabinetry is still riveted in place and the twisty metal supports are still supporting the upper kitchen cabinets, sag should be minimal.

Unless there is a reason to remove all the cabinets, replacing loose or broken rivets is best done one at a time using the original holes.

The only reason I can think of to make all-new rivet holes and seal the old ones is because they have been loose for a while and the holes have become enlarged or distorted. And even then, I'd investigate using slightly larger diameter rivets before I'd make all new holes.

There are a number of other ways to spruce up a weathered shell short of painting.

I believe you said earlier there have been some repairs/reinforcements to the frame. That is more likely the source of shell issues, and I'd make sure the frame is solid and straight before I did anything with the shell or rivets.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:43 AM   #29
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Well, it turns out that the search function is your friend, as recommended by so many other forum members because I was able to find some very good information regarding rivets. I'll be working through those with caps and replacing any that look like they're leaking.
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:47 AM   #30
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How do you know the shell is sagging? If all the original cabinetry is still riveted in place and the twisty metal supports are still supporting the upper kitchen cabinets, sag should be minimal.

Unless there is a reason to remove all the cabinets, replacing loose or broken rivets is best done one at a time using the original holes.

The only reason I can think of to make all-new rivet holes and seal the old ones is because they have been loose for a while and the holes have become enlarged or distorted. And even then, I'd investigate using slightly larger diameter rivets before I'd make all new holes.
Jon, someone removed the metal support brackets from the kitchen cabinet and then added some home made cabinets to the dinette area to complicate the roof load. I've already removed the home made cabinets because they were press wood and delaminating so the hinges were letting go. I believe that these rivets were leaking as well as are some of the other acorn nuts on the major closet cabinets so rivets will be replaced as well.


We can tell the walls are sagging because of the widening gap between the front bench seat and the door frame and the door is sagging in the opening, so we'll be replacing the worn out hinges after we lift the sagging roof line and add a small support in the doorway hinge side of the door.
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:07 AM   #31
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Jon, someone removed the metal support brackets from the kitchen cabinet and then added some home made cabinets to the dinette area to complicate the roof load. I've already removed the home made cabinets because they were press wood and delaminating so the hinges were letting go. I believe that these rivets were leaking as well as are some of the other acorn nuts on the major closet cabinets so rivets will be replaced as well.


We can tell the walls are sagging because of the widening gap between the front bench seat and the door frame and the door is sagging in the opening, so we'll be replacing the worn out hinges after we lift the sagging roof line and add a small support in the doorway hinge side of the door.

I would replace the twisty brackets. If necessary, a piece of plywood to spread the load and a 2x4 post will allow you apply gentle pressure to raise the roof. You could post a request for a forum member with the same layout to measure the factory distance between upper and lower cabinets.

Replacing loose and leaking rivets is good.

The shell attachment to the frame at the front corner of the door is a weak spot. Mine has a metal brace to strengthen that area. I think I recall reading that not all builds had that reinforcement. I could take a picture if you think it might help.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:12 AM   #32
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hinge side metal roof support

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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I would replace the twisty brackets. If necessary, a piece of plywood to spread the load and a 2x4 post will allow you apply gentle pressure to raise the roof. You could post a request for a forum member with the same layout to measure the factory distance between upper and lower cabinets.

Replacing loose and leaking rivets is good.

The shell attachment to the frame at the front corner of the door is a weak spot. Mine has a metal brace to strengthen that area. I think I recall reading that not all builds had that reinforcement. I could take a picture if you think it might help.
Jon, we have the metal support but it seems somewhat less than effective because it's not from floor to ceiling and the gap between the sofa and the wall has spread to prolly more than 1/2". I'm thinking of adding a closet there to incorporate a stronger support that will do double duty as the closet wall with access doors from the window side of the sofa.

The previous owner had installed overhead storage over the dinette that was made from press wood and was delaminating so we've removed that storage space and are finding a need for the lost storage. By combining our two needs, roof support & additional storage, we'll achieve both objectives. I'm wondering what material would be best for the roof support? Plywood or solid oak...hummm...any recommendations?
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Old 12-08-2015, 11:41 AM   #33
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Completed the sale transfer and registration of our "new to us" Scamp today and the clerk allowed me to change the stated year on the title to 1991 from 1993. The VIN shows the production year of 1991 according to Scamp decoding so...glad to have that completed.
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:31 PM   #34
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I looked again at the pictures you posted. The cabinets over the dinette appear to be factory original. They were optional, and Scamp did use manufactured wood for those cabinets until recently. The PO painted over them, of course.

What I am not seeing in your pictures are the original cabinets over the sink and stove counter. Are they there and I am missing them? Both sides should have fiberglass upper cabinets with a twisty metal brace on the dinette end, similar to this photo of my 13' Scamp:
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You can see it even better in the second image in member Carol H's registry (you can also see the optional cabinets over the dinette).

Assuming they're gone, you could try to snag replacements from someone doing a gut-and-rebuild, but unless they're pretty close, shipping will probably be prohibitive. If you're handy with wood, you could build replacements out of plywood and incorporate some kind of post going down to the lower cabinet. There are a couple of different ways to attach them to the shell. You can do as Scamp does in their deluxe models: stainless steel screws from the outside with snap caps. Or you can do as some other manufacturers do: epoxy wood tabs to the inside of the fiberglass shell and screw into that from the inside.

I assume the gap you're talking about is between the curbside of the front sofa and the wall beside the door, right? I'd be interested to see a picture of that. A gap there is more likely related either to issues with the subfloor, the frame, or the shell attachment in the front curbside corner (especially since the closet next to the door appears to be present and solidly attached? to the shell).

I would not proceed with any interior modifications until you have had the frame thoroughly checked out. There's a lot that isn't original there. It makes me wonder whether the A-frame was damaged (popped off the ball??) and rebuilt. If that's the case, the whole front of the frame may be tweaked.
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Old 12-08-2015, 02:20 PM   #35
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Jon, we already have an appointment to have the frame inspected on the 19th of this month. If that seems good, we'll take measurements for a new Flexiride Axle.


If we manage to clear both of those hurdles, then we'll be looking at lifting the sagging roof, replacing any rotted flooring (like that under the A/C in the closet) and installing a couch closet/door hinge brace. When we have the furniture out I'll be looking at replacing all the wiring and plumbing.


I'm not sure what you might be seeing that isn't original. There are overhead cabinets on both sides of the cabin; over the sink as well as the range/oven. The roof support next to the sink was there because you can see the mounting holes that were used before someone removed the bracket.


It's a process, but first we have to learn what we don't know.
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Old 12-08-2015, 02:51 PM   #36
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...I'm not sure what you might be seeing that isn't original. There are overhead cabinets on both sides of the cabin; over the sink as well as the range/oven. The roof support next to the sink was there because you can see the mounting holes that were used before someone removed the bracket...
I'm glad to hear both of the upper cabinets are there. I couldn't see them in the pictures, but since the color scheme is white-on-white, they must have blended into the walls. In that case, you can order new twisty metal supports from Scamp and install them. The location of the mounting holes may indicate whether you need to raise the roof to restore the original counter-to-cabinet distance, but if not, Scamp might be able to tell you when you call to place the order.

What doesn't look original to me is the tongue. Yours drops down at the end where the coupler is, while the original is flat, and there is some kind of reinforcing truss that runs underneath.

Just caught your signature… If an adventurous Took were to take up RVing, I suspect he'd feel right at home in a Scamp…
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:31 PM   #37
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The road goes on and on, down from the door where it began...

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I'm glad to hear both of the upper cabinets are there. I couldn't see them in the pictures, but since the color scheme is white-on-white, they must have blended into the walls. In that case, you can order new twisty metal supports from Scamp and install them. The location of the mounting holes may indicate whether you need to raise the roof to restore the original shape, but if not, Scamp might be able to tell you when you call to place the order.

What doesn't look original to me is the tongue. Yours drops down at the end where the coupler is, while the original is flat, and there is some kind of reinforcing truss that runs underneath.

Just caught your signature… If an adventurous Took were to take up RVing, I suspect he'd feel right at home in a Scamp…
Jon, the adventurous spirit of a wandering hobbit lives in all those who dwell in tiny eggs. Obviously, we share of love of Tolkien. Most excellent!
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Old 12-09-2015, 08:24 AM   #38
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Something about bed, bath, and supper at close of day... Isn't that why we have our rolling hobbit-holes?
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:39 PM   #39
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bad news with good news

Well, it feels like summer here in Kentucky when the temperature in December reaches almost 70' on December 13th. That's crazy! Also, it's virtually impossible to stay inside so we decided that it was time to do some more work on what we have affectionately named, "The Skank." No really, she's pretty nasty and today we decided to see how bad she really is...I knew that the previous owners had installed a house AC unit in the closet at some point. I also knew that it hadn't been properly installed to allow for condensate to drain properly.

When I drove to pick her up from Michigan, it was only 28' and there was about four inches of snow on the ground so I gave it the best inspection that I knew how. Unfortunately, I missed the rotted floor under the AC unit as well as a few other things like the stress cracks behind the spare tire.

So, I knew that we were in trouble when I made it back to Kentucky and had a better, and warmer, opportunity to crawl around and really look at what kind of trouble I had purchased for us. (Laura has been less the enamoured with me at times since we've begun the demolition phase. She may never let me solo to pick out anything, ever, again.)

So, today we decided to pull the AC unit and really evaluate the damage...you can clearly see the holes rotted through the what I thought was the floor but turns out to be the bottom of the closet.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:44 PM   #40
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the good news is in what you don't see in the 1st picture

In order to removed the AC unit, we removed the outside grill to discover that the installation included building a frame from 2X4's to support the AC unit. Unfortunately, who ever built the support frame was not very,...um...handy?

I'm trying to be nice here because I'm thinking of all kinds of off-color words that could describe the sloppy work that included installation of the support frame that is almost a full inch too deep for the space available. What this means is...(can you hear the drum roll?)...that the outter wall has been "forced" away from the back side of the closet causing several of the original construction rivets to let go or "pop," seen here...

This picture is goofy because of the angle that I shot the image but you can clearly see the huge gap immediately adjacent to the 2X4 in the middle bottom of the image where the curve of the body is deeply shadowed in black.
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all electric, bed extension, bumper mount spare, external fresh water tank, extra overhead cabinets, rebuild, renovation, scamp, sixteen, sliding rear window, thetford casette toilet


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