Air compressor recommendations?

[FishingBob]

Any recommendations on air compressors? Want portable 12v for tire needs on the road, but any reason for something to run on 120 too? Will want to use it blow out water lines, but if shore power is handy, I'm guessing it shouldn't be a problem to run it off the batteries? Any attachments to make sure it includes? Thanks.

[David B.]

Bob, I’ve went through many cheep Harbor Freight units, and finally purchased a substantial unit from Viair. It works on 12 volts and is very well built. Many off- roaders use them to inflate their 33 to 37 inch tires from 10 lbs back up to 40 lbs psi.
Dave & Paula

[floyd]

There are many small 12V compressors which can be used to top off tires or blow up air mattresses. I haven't tried nor do I see the point of using air for winterizing, but it would seem that you might need a tank for enough immediate capacity to do that effectively.
I wonder whether the spare tire with a hose adapter might serve that purpose?

[John Linck]

My gut says a 12 volt compressor could never blow a high enough volume of air to blow out water lines. That said, I haven't tried it. Just saying.

john

Pic of Bridge over the Merced River in Yosemite Valley

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by John Linck

My gut says a 12 volt compressor could never blow a high enough volume of air to blow out water lines. That said, I haven't tried it. Just saying.

john

Pic of Bridge over the Merced River in Yosemite Valley

You'd be surprised. The Viair 12V compressors mentioned above will do the job very well. They range from around 60 PSI up to 150 - more than enough to blow out the lines, or inflate a vehicle tire.

[Bruce H]

Master Flow MF-1050. 12 volt. I really like mine. Easy to search and shop on the internet.

[Jack L]

I have a VIAIR 88P. They sell smaller and larger models. It is great. Easily but slowly inflate tires to 85 PSI. I'm sure it would be adequate to blow out water lines if you were not in a hurry.

[John Linck]

Thanks for the tip on Vlair compressors. They look like nice units. I checked out this one

Plenty of pressure though it draws 19 amps at 50psi and 1 cfm. Be careful where you plug it in.

How much volume is necessary to blow out water lines? I have never tried it. Always went the antifreeze route.

john

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by John Linck

How much volume is necessary to blow out water lines?

It shouldn't take more than 40 psi or so. Most of the "experts" recommend setting the compressor to a maximum of 50 psi. You'll need a blowout plug to attach to the city water inlet.

I've seen some folks do both - blowing out the lines and using antifreeze. Not sure the antifreeze would be necessary if you got most/all the water out.

[Jack L]

Originally Posted by John Linck

Thanks for the tip on Vlair compressors. They look like nice units. I checked out this one

Plenty of pressure though it draws 19 amps at 50psi and 1 cfm. Be careful where you plug it in.

How much volume is necessary to blow out water lines? I have never tried it. Always went the antifreeze route.

john

John, you don't plug the 88P into a lighter socket. It comes with alligator clamps to attach to the battery terminals. The instructions state a plug into a lighter is not the way to go. Also there is an in line fuse near the clamps for protection.

[Glenn Baglo]

I've got a Porter Cable 6 gal. compressor. I'm thinking that it can provide constant pressure, whereas a compressor with no air tank pulses.
For all that, I still switched back to RV anti-freeze because I can see the pink stuff coming out of the taps.

[rdickens]

FWIW -
I had wondered about removing the hot water heater plug, opening all the faucets, draining all lines and the hot water heater, re-installing the hot water heater plug, and closing all the faucets again. When the compressor is attached to the blow out plug adapter, the HW heater tank and all the empty water lines could possibly act as a/the pressure reservoir. With pressure in the tank and lines, perhaps opening one faucet at a time could clear any remaining water in the lines?

The compressor that I carry is a Kobalt 110v/12v unit that I purchased at our local Lowes store. You can hook it up, set the desired pressure, and then hit "Start". It quits automatically when the set pressure is achieved.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-12-V...tor/1000092575

Just some possible ideas and food for thought. I haven't actually tested any of this yet.

Good luck!

Ray

[Raz]

Early on I discovered trying to fill my trailer tires at most places was almost impossible because of the location of the compressor. One option was to remove each tire and take it to the compressor. Instead I bought a Viair70 p. It fits nicely under the rear seat of my truck when not in use. For winterizing, I use the pink stuff. I'm not sure how well my water system would take to high pressure air.

[C&G in FL]

My 3 top recommendations:
1. Viair
2. Viair
3. Viair

[Ed Harris]

I have the big Slime model that I had to search pretty hard to find in a store but it will put 80lbs into my Sprinter tires for sure.

I run it only from a Battery Jump Box too as it can draw pretty high current as needed.

Ridgid also has just released a battery powered jobsite compressor that looks pretty sweet and is sitting at a Home Depot near you already too!
Not inexpensive but a sign of things to come too.

Don't know about blowing out lines with them but I never go on the road with the Slime!

[Darral T.]

It costs me apx $3 for one gal. of RV antifreeze a year (cheap additional insurance). I blow out my lines first. But that doesnt blow out the drain lines/pump. So since I feel like I'm going to need to add antifreeze to the drain system, why not just put it in my water tank: That covers my fresh water tank, its pump, the drains and it's pump (shower), the black/grey tank valves...and I back antifreeze into the water heater- just for the lines- not the water heater's sake.

After I blow out the lines, I drain both the grey/black water tanks. ALL of the residual water in the lines will remain in the tanks if you dont even though they were drained after the last camping outing. THEN I do the antifreeze and dont drain the tanks afterwards. Works for me and I have 100% confidence everything in my Scamp is "freeze-safe".

Originally Posted by rdickens

FWIW -
I had wondered about removing the hot water heater plug, opening all the faucets, draining all lines and the hot water heater, re-installing the hot water heater plug, and closing all the faucets again. When the compressor is attached to the blow out plug adapter, the HW heater tank and all the empty water lines could possibly act as a/the pressure reservoir. With pressure in the tank and lines, perhaps opening one faucet at a time could clear any remaining water in the lines?

The compressor that I carry is a Kobalt 110v/12v unit that I purchased at our local Lowes store. You can hook it up, set the desired pressure, and then hit "Start". It quits automatically when the set pressure is achieved.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-12-V...tor/1000092575

Just some possible ideas and food for thought. I haven't actually tested any of this yet.

Good luck!

Ray

[floyd]

Originally Posted by rbryan

It shouldn't take more than 40 psi or so. Most of the "experts" recommend setting the compressor to a maximum of 50 psi. You'll need a blowout plug to attach to the city water inlet.

I've seen some folks do both - blowing out the lines and using antifreeze. Not sure the antifreeze would be necessary if you got most/all the water out.

I would be more concerned about volume than pressure.
If I wanted to blow out my RV water system.(which I don't)
I have a palm sized 12V compressor which can produce 110PSI, great for airing up a bicycle tire or topping off a trailer tire, but it would not even make one revolution on an angle grinder or a DA sander.
On the other hand, one of those cheapo air mattress pumps might actually do a better job with low pressure and higher volume. just screw in a short length of garden hose to your shore water inlet and try it???

[Darral T.]

While this compressor is not necessarily "portable", here's the items I use to winterize AND keep my tires aired up before a trip. This little compressor will keep enough "volume" to blow out the lines and I use 40 lbs MAX! The "nailer" that came with it that I originally did NOT want has come in VERY handy! Not sure if it's still available new, but HF sells the same model under a different name (but without the nailer). I gave $49 for mine new, not refurbed. Every fall, Ace runs their RV antifreeze on sale, "2 for $5". I'll get a couple of gallons. The "Blowout plug" is a one-time investment. Do NOT get the plastic one! I use the same quick-disconnect on the air nozzle, tire nozzle that this blowout plug uses. Nice!

https://www.searsoutlet.com/Evolv-3-...54&mode=seeAll

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quick-Pro...&wl13=&veh=sem

Camco 1 Gallon Artic-Ban RV Anti-Freeze (30807) - Engine Antifreeze - Ace Hardware

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by floyd

I would be more concerned about volume than pressure.

That's true, the cfm is just as relevant, but it's probably a mixture of both. That's why I like the higher end Viair models like the 300p. 2.3 cfm is adequate for blowing out the lines. Some of the lower end 12V models are 1 cfm which probably won't do the job.

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by floyd

There are many small 12V compressors which can be used to top off tires or blow up air mattresses. I haven't tried nor do I see the point of using air for winterizing, but it would seem that you might need a tank for enough immediate capacity to do that effectively.
I wonder whether the spare tire with a hose adapter might serve that purpose?

No, I would not use the spare as an air tank. They tend to lose air over time anyway, so need to pump it up before a trip. I had a small, 1.5 gal tank compressor, but it is too small. Bought a 5 gal DeWalt, pancake type.

The little 12 v compressors are slow. But not bad for carrying in the TV.