New Deadbolt lock on Scamp

[Johnny M]

Very nice install John, well done. I ended up changing out our original Boler handle/lock for the newer style RV lock with dead bolt. The install was not too bad but it did take a little time as I used marine epoxy to bond 2 layers of plywood to the door from the inside to give the lock a sturdy base so the lock would not flex separately from the door itself particularly when closing from the inside. I also have had a problem with my door hitting the belly band and solved that by simply lowering the top hinge from its original position down to 21" from the top of the door (thanks to another post by Ian). Now my door fully opens and looks good with the new lock.

[John Linck]

Originally Posted by Johnny M

I ended up changing out our original Boler handle/lock for the newer style RV lock with dead bolt. The install was not too bad but it did take a little time as I used marine epoxy to bond 2 layers of plywood to the door from the inside to give the lock a sturdy base so the lock would not flex separately from the door itself particularly when closing from the inside. I also have had a problem with my door hitting the belly band and solved that by simply lowering the top hinge from its original position down to 21" from the top of the door (thanks to another post by Ian). Now my door fully opens and looks good with the new lock.

Your solution sounds like a good one. Beefing up the door was a good choice.

When closing the door it is a compromise between the amount of force needed to compress the weatherstripping for a good seal and easy of closing. After adjusting the latch on my Scamp for a tight seal, I reinforced the original strike plate so I could "slam" the door. The deadbolt is just an added feature. I will keep and eye on the door over time to see if its curvature slackens and other adjustments become necessary. I still dream about a magnetic weather seal like a refrigerator.

Cheers, john

[Johnny M]

Originally Posted by John Linck

I still dream about a magnetic weather seal like a refrigerator.

Now that is a good idea! I never thought of that, might have to do some experiments with your idea...

[charlsara]

Originally Posted by Timber Wolf

I am not putting this lock on because it is heavy duty, I just want the same lock to be able to be locked and unlocked from the inside and the outside. I want to be able to get up and go outside and lock the door with my daughter still asleep inside. She can get out simply by turning the thumb latch. I have also had the door come open underway, albeit from me not getting it closed well enough, but this lock will solve that issue also. And if I had a convertible, I would probably lock the doors on it too.

Your craftsmanship is impeccable and if you want a deadbolt why should anyone complain. I would lock a convertible to. While it is true that it won't keep someone determined out. It will give warning that some one is coming in. It will also send the casual burglar to another trailer or convertible.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by emij

....Aside from being on the road, I don't think we've locked our Scamp yet! ...

As many have pointed out.. locking the door, even with the OP's improved deadbolt lock, will not stop a thief who really wants to get in the camper. However, be sure to check your insurance policy. My policy (Progressive), will not pay off for theft unless there is physical evidence of an unlawful entry (i.e. visible damage). Leave the door unlocked and someone steals all you stuff.. no reimbursement. But lock the door so they have to break in, and you have the evidence needed to make a claim on your insurance policy.
Those of you who habitability leave the door unlocked might want to carry a sledge hammer (if you get my drift)

[Marg]

My 2012 13' Scamp' door lock. On the inside of the door is a pin that goes into a small hole that prevents the outside door handle from being pulled down. The pin is secured by a small length of chain. Has worked for me for years. I had a 2008 13' Scamp that had the same arrangement for locking the door from the inside. Marg

[John Linck]

Marg,

My scamp also had a locking pin. But frankly I'm more concerned with theft when I'm not in the trailer. Since so many RVs have the same key even over a several brands I thought a household lock with a more unique key would give me more security from the casual theft. And I will have clear evidence of forced entry. That said I realize there is no way to keep a serious thief out.

[Jon in AZ]

I agree, John, since the standard latch can be opened from outside with a screwdriver (without damage). Keeping the door closed securely under tow is another good reason to add some kind of deadbolt, either a modern RV-type lockset (as some have done) or a secondary deadbolt like yours or Tim's.

In any case, though, with or without added security, it's not something I am going to lose any sleep over!

[John Linck]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

In any case, though, with or without added security, it's not something I am going to lose any sleep over!

Jon,
There isn't much I lose sleep over these days, especially when sleeping in our Scamp.
😄😜

Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[awinterchild]

Are you selling the modified parts? Where did you purchase the lock/handle mechanism? Thanks.

[Darral T.]

I just sent you a PM back on your questions of where I purchased etc but it says you cant recieve PMs even though I received one from you!

Originally Posted by awinterchild

Are you selling the modified parts? Where did you purchase the lock/handle mechanism? Thanks.

[awinterchild]

Checked my settings under my profile. Would you be so kind to pm me again? Much appreciated!

[Darral T.]

Your private msg is not working. I can click on your name in this main forum window and the "PM" option isnt there. It is on the others. Here's basically what I wrote you back:

I take that you have you seen my ACTUAL FIC door latch/lock install on my Flickr photos? As far as purchasing, I bought it at Boxrud RV...just happened to have a chrome one and it was reasonable. But I found one here for you as well: https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-0...c+rv+door+lock

I dont make those parts as they're quite involved! I made it the way I did so that the "Striker plate" mounting would virtually remain "invisible". I've had many compliments on it but also rated as "over kill". I dont deny that but wouldnt change it where the screws could be seen and the big plate for anything! But that's just me.

While it's unseen, there's SEVERAL hours work there! But I'm VERY happy and pleased with the results and have not had ONE minute's trouble with that lock set up in the 4 yrs it's been on there. I also like the fact that you can shut the door and it will latch w/o you have to turn (pull in this case) the handle! You cant do that with the stock latches or at least mine wouldnt!

For what it's worth, on my photos on the Flickr site, I think the dimensions are there. The most nerve-wracking part is cutting the hole in the door for the lock itself!! But I'd gladly do this mod again.

Here's a link to my install again in case you want to quick-reference it. https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57643963773193

Good luck with what ever you decide....

Originally Posted by awinterchild

Checked my settings under my profile. Would you be so kind to pm me again? Much appreciated!

[kmeats]

I did my 16 ' scamp door latch by Darrals instructions with great success . The only thing I changed was the striker plate . " Best mod I have done yet

[Darral T.]

Thanks "k". Glad the info could be of use to someone!

Originally Posted by kmeats

I did my 16 ' scamp door latch by Darrals instructions with great success . The only thing I changed was the striker plate . " Best mod I have done yet