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08-07-2016, 07:18 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 18
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Awning for Scamp 13
I wanted to make an awning for my Scamp trailer, and I knew that rather than buy one, I could make it myself. I went to the fabric store and bought outdoor fabric.
Because I wanted the awning to be 75 inches wide, I needed to seam two pieces of fabric together. Then, I wanted ruffles, which were a little difficult to sew. All in all, it took me a week after work and some time on the weekends to finish.
I've included some photos.
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08-07-2016, 07:50 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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Nicely done. It looks very cheerful. This makes me want to get my sewing machine out.
Do you have an awning rail on the trailer that the cord fits into?
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08-08-2016, 02:18 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricia D.
Do you have an awning rail on the trailer that the cord fits into?
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Yes. I got a 12' length (already cut, so discounted) at a local RV parts store and cut to size. The flat area of the roof is about 6' 6", so that's what I cut it to. It's nice because it's white and blends in nicely.
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08-08-2016, 02:36 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Looking good Chris .
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08-08-2016, 04:34 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,707
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Very nice!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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08-08-2016, 01:20 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Duane
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300
New Brunswick
Posts: 180
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Nice neat work ! (retired upholester) Now... about the color clash of the tow vehicle ! Aww, just kidding ! get out and enjoy ! Duane
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08-08-2016, 01:45 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Looks GREAT! Well done.
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08-08-2016, 02:06 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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It looks VERY nice and nicely made. BUT, I see just one flaw with that design and you may have already thought of it. IF it rains, it WILL come crashing down if you dont roll it up. With no support bars in the center, it will puddle the water with GREAT weight. Just something to keep an eye on.
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08-08-2016, 02:57 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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When it rains you can just shorten the tarp poles to create a slope.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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08-08-2016, 03:00 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Just make sure the poles are pulled TIGHT at their tie downs or it can still gather water.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo
When it rains you can just shorten the tarp poles to create a slope.
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08-08-2016, 05:17 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Duane
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300
New Brunswick
Posts: 180
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Sagging canopy in the rain
Hi again Darrl T is right about water sagging your canopy. I solved this by making up one extra taller pole and place it centered in the canopy to peak the roof. I found 2- 3" dia. round plastic end caps to protect the material from tears (top)and keep the pole from sinking into the ground(bottom). I think these were originally used as protectors from a shipping carton. Waste not want not, re-purpose things if you can. Plywood disc would work too with a partial depth hole for the pole to fit in. Just trying to help! Duane
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08-08-2016, 07:10 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 18
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Yes, yes. This isn't my first camping trip :-)
I carry a third pole and a 3 1/2" length of a 2x4 (a square) with a hole drilled halfway through. That way I can "tent" the awning when needed.
All but the awning itself is recycled from our usual canopy - a tarp.
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08-08-2016, 08:30 PM
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#13
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Member
Name: Michelle
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 76
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Looks great! I've been thinking about trying this myself.
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08-09-2016, 07:39 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2010 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe
Wisconsin
Posts: 216
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Speaking of awnings, has anyone considered something like this and installing an awning track?
Reimo Caravan Sun Canopy - Travel Trailer Awning Canopies - Travel Trailer Awnings - RV Awnings RV & Auto
And speaking of awning tracks, like I said in another post, I don't like drilling holes on my beautiful fiberglass body (same as my own body and tattoos), so has anyone stuck one one with adhesive strip? Or is that not even close to strong enough?
I would have just gotten an installed awning on and used it only in perfect weather, but the Casita we found does not have a factory mounted canopy.
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08-09-2016, 07:54 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 18
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I've heard of people using 3M VHB (very high bond) tape. Two requirements: the area you're installing it in must be clean of wax, oxidation, etc., and you need a very consistent gap between the awning channel and the roof. Even a 2mm gap can collect dirt and then permit wind/rain/etc to peel it back a little, gradually opening the gap.
VHB tape is what's used on modern car emblems and trim pieces. If the fit is precise, it's "permanent".
For what it's worth, I used the belt and suspenders method to install my rail: drilled holes were filled with silicone caulk, then the butyl tape was applied to the entire rail, and when my screws and/or rivets were attached, the butyl tape "squished" a bit. After all was said and done, I used a Popsicle stick to smooth/push the slightly squirted butyl "putty" back into the gap between the awning rail and camper.
Note: I did NOT squeeze all of the putty out as I tightened. For the stainless screws, I used nylock nuts to prevent them from backing out.
After the rail was installed, I caulked the "up" side of the rail, then put caulk over the screw heads before installing the vinyl trim that covers the screws.
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08-09-2016, 08:15 AM
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#16
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Member
Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vtec
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I was going to post this same question! I have an awning the PO threw in with my 13' Scamp, but it's made to attach to the roof rack of the TV. My handy friend made me a couple of aluminum brackets to attach it to the Scamp, but I have not done it.
I read a post by someone who attached solar panels using only the 3m adhesive that's made for aircraft. Thought it might be possible to do the same with the awning. Thoughts?
Jen
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__________________
Jennifer
Denver, CO
"The Napsule"; 2003 13' Scamp
TV: 2013 Subaru Forester
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08-10-2016, 11:20 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: Compact Jr
California
Posts: 12
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Awning for Scamp 13
I am interested in adding such an awning to my Hunter II but would have to drill holes and rivet the awning rail which could then pose added leak problems...
How did you attach the awning rail?
And how has others does this and have anyone had leaking problems?
thank you, jim
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08-10-2016, 11:49 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Ontario
Posts: 353
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Another way to connect to trailer
A while ago I read a post by Ginny and Norm, I think, that described their awning. They put 3M Command hooks on the roof of the trailer and put plastic piping through a seam at the top of the awning and slid that over the hooks. The tension between the hooks and the poles at the front end would hold the awing in place.
I don't have time to find their original thread but will do so later. I am just on a quick break from removing tar from my trailer roof and need to get it done before the rain comes again.
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08-10-2016, 05:20 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp
Pennsylvania
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Ramona
I am interested in adding such an awning to my Hunter II but would have to drill holes and rivet the awning rail which could then pose added leak problems...
How did you attach the awning rail?
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Jim
See my post above regarding butyl tape and silicone caulk.
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02-01-2017, 03:22 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Name: Vic
Trailer: Boler
Ontario
Posts: 6
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awning track
Adhering an awning track to the fiberglass/gel coat is not a problem. Use Sika Flex. This is a Europe product. u.s. companies cannot manufacture a product as flexible and strong as this. Used by Bombardier for most of their "go trains" production. It is fabulous stuff and not that expensive. You will not find it in local hardware stores or lumber yards, you have to deal with a construction adhesive supplier. If the body has a slight curve and you have to push the track down to make contact, that may be a problem because it will take about two days for the Sika Flex to cure and bond.
Vic
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