Trillium Hehr window drip strip. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:41 PM   #1
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Trillium Hehr window drip strip.

I have nice new drip strip from Interstate to install. The old stuff is brittle and breaking off. How have folk removed the old and inserted new? Space seems tight to slide it in past frame and is the 'slot' nipped to hold old strip in? I tried removing the top pane but could not lift it off hinges. If I can only achieve strip swap by taking window apart, please let me down slowly as my windows have already been resealed with new butyl and ply. Thanks!
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Old 04-30-2014, 05:33 AM   #2
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I don't think the groove the top moulding goes into is crimped, it should just slide out. If you remove the upper window pane it will give you a little more room to work, just have to remove the 2 screws on each side that connect the aluminum side opening mechanist to the window pane.

The new strip is very flexable, so it will actually slide in much easier than taking the old brittle one out.

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Old 04-30-2014, 10:34 PM   #3
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Thanks Ian,
I had no luck lifting out that top pane after I removed the two screws either side. There is less wiggle room than the lower panes, which I have removed before. I'll try again and wiggle harder. Cheers! Doug
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:28 PM   #4
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Doug, Where did you get the new drip strip?
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Doug, Where did you get the new drip strip?
Jalousie Header Seal

I bought all my Jalousie seals through Vintage Trailer, reasonable prices, great service and affordable shipping
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Doug, Where did you get the new drip strip?

Dave,

You can also check out this site: Interstate RV Metal & Supply

Scroll down to rubber parts.

Also, pretty much everything else you need for rebuilding windows.

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Old 05-02-2014, 08:29 PM   #7
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:10 PM   #8
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I ordered my drip strip from interstate; you can have it in any colour,as long as it's black. I also ordered the bottom seal. $30 shipping, arrived in 5 days. I have still to try removing the top pane, again, as we are now on holiday in the Trillium. Not many 'drips' in Kelowna yet!
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:44 AM   #9
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Just as a comparison I ordered through Vintage Trailer Supply the Jalousie J-Seal (24') for the side and bottom of each window and the Jalousie Header & Sill Seal (10') for the top.
Total cost was $41.03 which included $13.35 for shipping. Package was shipped Feb 10 by USPS and arrived on Feb 19.

Doug, how did Interstate ship your seals USPS or Courier?
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:29 PM   #10
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Trillium Hehr window drip strip.

Doug,, I have that same window except that it is in a scamp. wondering if you have ever found or heard of a rubber seal that folds over those edges to cover the screws. or does one just silicone or butyl the holes before you put in the screws and leave them exposed? Bob
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Doug,, I have that same window except that it is in a scamp. wondering if you have ever found or heard of a rubber seal that folds over those edges to cover the screws. or does one just silicone or butyl the holes before you put in the screws and leave them exposed? Bob
There is a cover for the screws around the window:
Hehr Screw Cover, Molding

But it is mostly decorative. The screws go through the window flange, which should have butyl putty behind it. That is what will keep the water out.

Lots of people don't use, or can't find the cover.
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
There is a cover for the screws around the window:
Hehr Screw Cover, Molding

But it is mostly decorative. The screws go through the window flange, which should have butyl putty behind it. That is what will keep the water out.

Lots of people don't use, or can't find the cover.
I'd add the caveat that if screws with heads bigger/fatter than the originals are used on the windows, that screwcover molding may not fit. The picture below from the thread starter appears to show a head size big enough to have caused some deformation of the channel the molding snaps onto.

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Old 09-09-2014, 09:21 PM   #13
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Coming back to this as I tried again to remove the top window unit to change out my old drip strip. I've removed the lower ones easy enough to replace glass but there appears to be lack of wiggle room for the top unit to come out. Maybe I can only do this if I remove the entire window and dismantle select parts of the frame, but I've already re-Butyled 3 out of 4 windows. Any ideas? Has anyone actually removed top window unit?
Oh, Ian G, my stripping was UPS's from the US. Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:34 AM   #14
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It will be much easier if you remove the upper window, Just remove the 4 screws as I mentioned iwhen you initially posted. You should not have to remove the entire window, just the upper window.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:21 PM   #15
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Ian,
I removed the four screws and with considerable coercion had the pane off the supports (that it was screwed onto).However, it seems too tight to fully remove the window pane and thus have easier access to replace the drip strip. I have previously successfully removed lower panes.
Thanks, Doug
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Old 09-13-2014, 05:51 AM   #16
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Showing my inexperience again here, but what is a window drip strip? David Tilston, I have the cover that you show - ours was painted and caulked over and that all came off very easy. We have not done every window - one at a time.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:32 AM   #17
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The drip strip referred to is the little piece of rubber above the top pane. On most of my windows, it has cracked and half of it has broken off.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:55 AM   #18
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Is it really important to have that strip?
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:49 AM   #19
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Dave, is the channel that your header stril mounted in "crimped" at the ends? On the Boler the header strip channel in NOT crimped but the "J" seal molding (sides & bottom) were crimped, this could be what is holding yours in.
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Old 04-29-2015, 02:13 PM   #20
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Did anyone with a Trillium have any luck getting the top windows out? They seem to be built slightly different than the Boler windows and "lift" (with much effort) as opposed to slide. And because of my crusty J-seal, I can't lift it out.
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