Is it important to replace rusty screws and hinges?

[kate8888]

Yes, I did accidently start 2 threads with the same topic. As a newbie, I posted one without realizing that it had to be approved by the admins, so I posted again thinking that my original post had disappeared into cyber space. Any idea how I can contact the admin to delete the other post?

As far as removing the awning, there are two reasons that I want to remove it:

1. The current awning is busted and I can't get it out of the rail which leads me to think that the rail might be bent and therefore worth keeping.

2. Previous owners used 2" stainless steel bolts to attach the rail to the roof so there is 20 x ~1.5 inches extra bolt that is sticking from the roof inside the scamp. I would consider just replacing the awning rail for a future awning but I really don't think that is something that I would end up using. I am a pop-up shade kinda person.

Speaking to original topic here, I think painting some rusty parts would work for me. I do want to replace the rock guard hinges b/c they are in such bad shape. If I get stainless hinges, should I also get stainless pop rivets or would the aluminum work? I've read conflicting info.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by kate8888

Yes, I did accidently start 2 threads with the same topic. As a newbie, I posted one without realizing that it had to be approved by the admins, so I posted again thinking that my original post had disappeared into cyber space. Any idea how I can contact the admin to delete the other post?

I answered in the other post.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post709362

[kate8888]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Ian Giles sells ALL stainless steel hardware for the gravel guard. Scamp sells mild steel.

Be aware, his store is closed Aug. 1 - Aug. 31, he has ALL he can do planning the 50th Boler Event.


Boler/Scamp - Window Gravel Guard - Stainless Steel - Camping Treasures

Thanks Donna! I have contacted the admins about deleting the other post and I am cutting and pasting your comment here for reference. I am ordering that kit now and hoping I can get in before he shuts down the store!

[john madill]

I would certainly paint instead of drilling out rivets and rehanging doors and such.

As suggested, metallic paint for the rusty metal. And white paint and an artist's brush to retouch the little rust colored ring near the rivets.

Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill.

[kate8888]

Originally Posted by john madill

I would certainly paint instead of drilling out rivets and rehanging doors and such.

As suggested, metallic paint for the rusty metal. And white paint and an artist's brush to retouch the little rust colored ring near the rivets.

Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill.

Like I said previously, I will paint a lot of the rusty parts however the rock guard hinges are just too far gone.

[Kai in Seattle]

Lots of people post the same topic more than once...a time or two. Oh, good, you contacted them and are moving the other reply! That's super!



Awning. So there's a definite problem with the railing, which tells me if you take it off you're not losing anything valuable, but gaining value instead (I mean personal value, not necessarily to anyone else or for money). I'd say go for it.

Those bolts sound obnoxious!

So many pop-ups! I spent some real time looking at LOTS of them; in the end we got the Z-shades because they were local enough we didn't have to have them shipped, and we were able to go and "touch" them before deciding. They were so cheap we got two little ones and a big one. We use both sizes at different times, and even all three once in a while. We use bungee cords and we were using milk jugs but have switched to gallon bleach bottles to fill with water as ballast weights. One bungee hooked on each corner, wrapped around the leg a few times and then hooked to the gallon handle. Works surprisingly well. They aren't the sturdiest things on earth, but they're better than we expected for the price. BUT--they had limited colors. I wanted white, and we had to get blue. Could be a lot worse. Coulda been a sports team we don't even like. (We wouldn't have bought them in that case, though, there are too many alternatives out there.)

We could fill the bottles with dry sand if we had to. We empty them before we travel, of course, so hauling this ballast is super light. I do like the "flip top" caps that are attached, though. The milk jug caps had to be screwed on and off and were easily dropped and lost. Also milk jugs deteriorate in sunlight...these seem sturdier. I made some labels on my printer: "Ballast Bottle." Used clear packing tape to put them on and keep them dry.

Sounds like you're working well on this!

Kai


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[Roger C H]

One can just use an old candle. Be sure to use wax and not soap. Soap will work for lubing, but the cleaning ingredients will cause rust. And like Kai said, and Donna D and many other places, DO NOT USE SILICONE! It bonds with the fiberglass and prevents anything else from sticking, even more silicone.

[ntsqd]

I haven't reviewed all of the other threads on this topic, but one thing that I don't see mentioned in detail is galvanic corrosion. Essentially what happens is dissimilar metals in contact with each other will set up a "battery" of sorts when moisture gets into the joint. This "battery" is a very active corroding agent.

Stainless screws are typically made from 18-8 alloy where the largest alloying element is Chromium (~1.8%). If you look up a galvanic potential chart you will see that chromium or 300 series Stainless (the family that 18-8 falls into) is some distance from aluminum while zinc is right next to it. So in terms of galvanic corrosion the worst thing that you can do is to screw a SS screw into a piece of aluminum. This is well documented in the marine world, they know not to use SS screws and bolts that are going to directly thread into aluminum as the fastener will soon not be removable. Using a zinc plated screw is a much, much better idea. Or the SS fastener is insulated and isolated from the aluminum.

If you live in a dry climate this may not a be a concern, but if you live in a moist climate it should be a big concern. The plastic washer mentioned in a post is one good idea, but it doesn't address all of the routes that moisture can use to get into a joint. I would suggest "bedding" the part being added with a sealant of your choice.

18-8 Stainless is also very malleable, it is easy to permanently distort and not terribly strong. Compared to SAE Graded bolts it is about Grade 2 in strength. Definitely NOT a material to be used in highly stressed locations like anything to do with the hitch or the suspension.

[kate8888]

I finally had the time to devote working on the scamp today. I took off the awning and I am glad I did b/c I found a couple of places where it was bolted on that had started to leak. I cleaned up all the butyl tape / putty and fixed the holes with Marine-Tek epoxy putty.

While I was up on eye level with the roof, I noticed that two of my pop-rivets are loose and about to come off. This leads me to a couple of questions:

Since my scamp has lots of different types and sizes of rivets, how do I figure out what is used in each hole where to get them? I would think there is a user manual for the model that would outline those things but I haven't found one.

Do I have to buy the rivets from Scamp? I would like to get this done ASAP since I am sure they will come out at any moment. Could I buy them locally? Or anywhere that will not charge me ridiculous shipping charges?

[Kai in Seattle]

I know many people buy their pop rivets locally. Check on the Search icon above (use the lower fill-in area, not the upper one) for that topic. Also there's information about sizing as well. I can see you wouldn't want a lot of different sizes if it were possible to only use one or two.

Kai