Thoughts on adding outside storage door to Scamp?

[Timber Wolf]

So, I ordered this 14" X 22" (approx.) RV access door on fleabay. Pretty nice, has one thumb turn latch and one keyed locking latch. I like that as in camp you can just turn the thumb turn and not bother with the key until you need to "secure" things. I want to cut it in on the steet side rear so I can easily access the area below the bench on that side of my Scamp. I leave the dinette set up as a bed all the time and the little inside access hole leaves me standing on my head to do anything in there anyway.

I held the new door up on the outside last night and it looks like it should fit slick just behind the front of the dinette and still be in front of the side marker light. It will be tight top to bottom between the top of the FG bench and the floor but I think it will fit. I don't think there will be a structural issue cutting a hole that big right there, and it will really open that area for use.

It is not much bigger (if any) than the refrigerator or A/C or WH doors/vents and has rounded corners so inside corner stress points in the FG body are reduced. There is not as much curve to the body right there, so that should not be an issue. I have the proper putty tape, and will put a thin bead of quality caulk around the top of the flange. I'm thinking through-bolt with stainless screws and washers and self locking nuts on the inside. Thoughts?

[C&G in FL]

Shouldn't be a problem. However, I would use rivets like the rest of any items installed on a "typical" Scamp. They do make stainless steel rivets. If you ever have to drill them out, use a sharp drill bit and use kerosene instead of cutting oil. It will not be a structural issue. Others have done this mod.


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[Donna D.]

I can't even begin to imagine how hard it would be to seat stainless steel rivets. Makes my hands hurt to think about it.

Unlike Carl, I don't see anything wrong with using stainless bolts and nuts. Because I have a deluxe, there's lots of other fasteners used in my trailer other than just rivets.

I'd say, use what works best for you.

[sarahspins]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I'd say, use what works best for you.

Yep, no right or wrong, as long as they won't rust in place

I planned on replacing the rivets holding my escape hatch in with nuts and bolts, but ultimately I just riveted the new one in place - it was faster/easier/much less hassle.

I cut a similarly sized hole for my A/C vent and I also riveted that one in place. When I get around to cutting my access hatch for the similar space as the OP (but smaller sized hatch - just big enough to use for access to an extension cord stashed inside and exterior access to my AGM batteries that will be located inside that rear bench), I'll probably rivet that too, just because it's easy and I'm lazy - and I've discovered that rivets aren't that difficult to remove

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I can't even begin to imagine how hard it would be to seat stainless steel rivets. Makes my hands hurt to think about it.

Unlike Carl, I don't see anything wrong with using stainless bolts and nuts. Because I have a deluxe, there's lots of other fasteners used in my trailer other than just rivets.

I'd say, use what works best for you.

You're right, Donna, about "what works best for you." I've used SS rivets before and I find them a little harder to "cut" than aluminum rivets, but not all that much harder. But I have a very good rivet tool (Malco) which has given me years of great service.

One of the reasons I favor rivets in this situation is that they have a small diameter, and the corresponding sized bolts/nuts I find difficult to use (getting the nuts started on the threads, especially in confined spaces or when holding something in place. Another reason is I prefer the appearance of a rivet to a larger bolt/screw head. But as Donna states, the key factor is what works best for you.

[Island Claire]

Hi Tim, thought I would take a couple of pictures for you. Someone put one on the passenger side of our Trillium and I would love one on the other side. Like you we keep the bed down all the time. They just used bolts, not the best job, but it works and does not leak. The only thing we wish for is a way to keep it open when we are taking things in and out, plus you have to remember that driving dirt gets into the lock so requires regular lube.

[Timber Wolf]

Originally Posted by Island Claire

Hi Tim, thought I would take a couple of pictures for you. Someone put one on the passenger side of our Trillium and I would love one on the other side. Like you we keep the bed down all the time. They just used bolts, not the best job, but it works and does not leak. The only thing we wish for is a way to keep it open when we are taking things in and out, plus you have to remember that driving dirt gets into the lock so requires regular lube.

Thanks for the pics. I have seen advertised a clip that folds down when not in use and out to grab the opened door to hold it up. I may or may not use something like that but knowing me will probably end up with a "prop stick".

I wish I had been able to find a 12" high door but now I have bought the 14" so I will make it fit. The water, power (120V) and gas lines are all right against the outside shell under the bench where I will cutting the door in. I may be able to reroute them on the inside of the bench or I may have to just bend up a sheet metal cover to go over them and leave them in place. Although that partially defeats having a nice tall access door when an inch or so is blocked across the bottom for the whole width. Oh well, for every solution there are numerous problems.<_<

[honda03842]

Tim,

I've had trailers with access to the interior of the trailer through an outside hatch. Our Sunline had hatch access to space under the dinette. It worked fine.

The downside is that it uses space on the inside of the trailer, for us the most valuable space. With our Scamp 16, to handle the secondary items, we added separate outside storage space.

[Wayne Collins]

We have a 2000 16 ft Scamp, deluxe side dinette. I added a cargo door in that location, bought from an RV store, from a Coleman Pop up camper.
Rounded corners, measures 13" high x 20" wide. I did have to move the ELectric cord door. and move the side marker lamp rearward.
I used the hole from the electric cord door as a starting point for the upper rear corner of my door. On the inside, remove the bench cushions and remove the entire wood top from that compartment.
You will find water and electric lines running along the bottom outer wall. Be careful to not damage them as you cut the hole for your door. The upper limit of your cutout should be just below the horizontal ledge that supports the bench/bed board. If your water inlet is on that side, it should be far enough forward to be out of your way.
I bought a bulkhead connector for my shore power cable. cut the Scamp cable, and wired it to this connector, located ahead of the water inlet.
Now my cable is disconnected and rides in that compartment, along with water hoses, leveling blocks, chock blocks, etc. CAUTION. to keep the stuff in there from sliding forward into the electric power panel and water lines, I put in a bulkhead. And, to protect the tubes and wires running along the bottom, made a wood box cover.
The new door is screwed into the bed rail ledge with 1" stainless pan head screws. The sides and bottom are secured with aluminum pop rivets. Sealed with silicone caulk all around.
Good luck

[QUOTE=Timber Wolf;512181]So, I ordered this 14" X 22" (approx.) RV access door on fleabay. Pretty nice, has one thumb turn latch and one keyed locking latch. I like that as in camp you can just turn the thumb turn and not bother with the key until you need to "secure" things. I want to cut it in on the steet side rear so I can easily access the area below the bench on that side of my Scamp. I leave the dinette set up as a bed all the time and the little inside access hole leaves me standing on my head to do anything in there anyway. ......

[Thom Rowland]

I put an outside access door in this location on the Scamp 16 that I had. I did the same things as Wayne Collins and I also added some aluminum angles inside, held in place by the fastners on the fore and aft edges of the door. When these fastners were tightned they pulled the fiberglass flatter so the door's frame edges sealed better. I did use stainless 10-32 machine screws and nuts to attach the door.