Scamp fan

[Darral T.]

Another thing... I've looked back through the posts. We dont know how old this Scamp is??

[Byron Kinnaman]

Many people seem to think at because the electrical system is only 12 volts it's ok to mess with. Automobiles also have a 12 volt electrical system. Try a google search on "automobile recalls for electrical fires".

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

Another thing... I've looked back through the posts. We dont know how old this Scamp is??

Good point Darral. Mine was only 5 or 6 years old when a similar thing happened.

[Lady Darilyn]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

Good point Darral. Mine was only 5 or 6 years old when a similar thing happened.

Sorry guys. It's a 2010 13'. So, eerily similar to the '5 or 6 years' that Byron mentioned.

[Lady Darilyn]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Beyond that, yes I agree to get someone who is knowledgeable enough to be safe getting this fixed. And soon too, I hope.. we have all made our guesses and are looking to win the prize for being right.
.

You all get a prize for being so knowledgeable and helpful...

If I were to take it to a 'professional' would that be an RV dealer or...?

[Darral T.]

If you can find a reputable LOCAL RV shop, I'd rather trust them than a Camping World. PLEASE check out the battery before taking it in if you can...just in case. An Autozone or some place like that will check it for free...or maybe even where you just bought it. I believe you said it was new.

For what it's worth? Mine TOO is a 2010 13' Standard Scamp. I recently just got back from a trip...turned on the fan and it wasnt up to speed; turned on 3 or 4 incandescent 12v lights and brought them all to their "knees". And I had just got back with the 12v hooked up and it was fully charged from the tow vehicle! But yes, they work fine on 120v. (Converter). So...why is mine doing this?

**My battery is going bad as it's the original and is now going on 6 yo**.

We may not could fix it for you but please let us know what it was. We'll definitely be all eyes when you do I'm like some of the others...I sure wish that rascal of yers was sitting in my driveway right now!! Whewweee... Talking about takin on a challenge!!

[stefman]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

If it's a freshly charged battery and it immediately reads 12.3, then something else is seriously eating your power BEFORE you turn anything on on the battery side. Not necessarily - the battery could have problems.



Coming off the charger fresh, it should read somewhere above 13volts.

Please don't ever judge a battery by what the voltage is fresh off a charger. That 'surface' charge is a useless reading on any battery. Put a small load, let's say one light or any load on the battery for 15 seconds, then turn that load off - make sure all loads are off by disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. Now read the battery voltage with a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter). This will be a way more accurate reading. If the reading is over 12.6 volts you have a 'sulphated' battery and it's junk. If your reading in less that 12.2 volts then your battery is most likely junk. A reading of 12.3 to 12.6 is in the normal range. From there a qualified person needs to perform a load test on the battery. A perfectly brand new battery, fully charged, and not surface charged should only read 12.6 volts maximum. You can only create 2.1 volts per cell if the battery is not sulphated. Do the math.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by stefman

Please don't ever judge a battery by what the voltage is fresh off a charger. That 'surface' charge is a useless reading ....

This is good advice.. check a battery by doing a load test and (if its not the sealed type), a hydrometer check.

[Darral T.]

I agree 100%. But I've checked too many of my 12v coming FRESH off the charger and know that the voltage (freestanding) is higher than 12.3. I was trying to simulate what she said she was doing. My point is, she's saying 12.3 off the charger AND with the load- fan/lights. BUT, the subject is, they're not performing. And in my statement, I also asked that she attach the wires...simply to watch the voltage and see if it changed WITHOUT the lights, fan, etc. IF the voltage nosedives (regardless what the free-standing voltage is), then she has a severe problem with the wiring upstream from the battery. The fan/lights are simply victims at this point not being able to receive the current they need. I would agree then that this is where loose connections and/or corroded connections/Fuses would/could enter the picture as previously suggested by others.

As I also stated, I feel she should have the battery checked for reassurance AND it will be under a load when she has it tested. That is the ONLY true way she will know if the battery is good. IF the battery is good, then I highly recommend her taking it to an RV shop to have the wiring checked.

This one thing I DO know from the ownership of a Scamp. There's LOTS of wiring where the 12v wires enters the trailer coming off the trailer from the plug/battery. And if it's like mine, it's deep in the front closet. If she doesnt have a bathroom, then others that have the bunks probably can tell you that you can find the wiring under the front couch. From there it, will not be an easy task.

I wish her the best... and still anxious to find out the culprit.

Originally Posted by stefman

Please don't ever judge a battery by what the voltage is fresh off a charger. That 'surface' charge is a useless reading on any battery. Put a small load, let's say one light or any load on the battery for 15 seconds, then turn that load off - make sure all loads are off by disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. Now read the battery voltage with a DVOM (digital volt/ohm meter). This will be a way more accurate reading. If the reading is over 12.6 volts you have a 'sulphated' battery and it's junk. If your reading in less that 12.2 volts then your battery is most likely junk. A reading of 12.3 to 12.6 is in the normal range. From there a qualified person needs to perform a load test on the battery. A perfectly brand new battery, fully charged, and not surface charged should only read 12.6 volts maximum. You can only create 2.1 volts per cell if the battery is not sulphated. Do the math.

[Lady Darilyn]

I. Just want you all to know that I am still waiting for my dad to come over to try all of your suggestions. I will post an update ASAP. TX!

[Lady Darilyn]

Hello my FGRV family! Good news, my dad (and electrical engineer but FGRV novice) is here to start trying to figure out this fan situation. He has one initial question for you...
" I measured the current drawn from battery when only the fan was running. It was about 6 amperes. This might be too high and indicate a bad fan. Please ask the forum if anybody knows what the "right" current for the fan is."


if any of you folks could get me that info ASAP, I'd really appreciate it.


And, by chance, are any of you available by phone today? Especially those who seem to have a rich store of knowledge on these matters? Darral, Gordon, Byron? It would be so wonderful if we had someone to ask should something unexpected arise while we are working this afternoon.



Happy holiday weekend to all of you and hope I soon get to celebrate my independence from this fan mess! ��������

[The Minimalist]

The specs on my Fantastic Vent show the following nominal amp draws: High 3A, Medium 2.29 A, Low 1.86 A.

[Carol H]

Don't forget to mention to your Dad that White is - Negative and Black is + Positive on your trailer as that may come as a surprise to him as he may not be expecting that due to his being new to trailers. That may save him a few minutes of confusion.

[Lady Darilyn]

Well folks, my lil Scamp is up and running and ready to get back on the road! Woo friggin Hoo!!!

As Carol mentioned, the whole black white positive negative thing is a bit of an anomaly to non-RVrs so that was the majority of the issue. But even when that big/small issue was remedied, there still turned out to be a bit of faulty wiring too.
Remember how I was saying the 12 V outlet was reading full charge even when the lights and fan weren't working? Well, I had forgotten that it was an additional outlet added by the original owner and wired directly to the battery. So, in the end, it was a combination of correcting the polarity of the wires and splicing into the additional line that the previous owner had run to bypass the faulty wiring. Then.... Lights, Fan, Scamping!!!

I don't know what I would've done without all you guys. Thank you so much to Carol, Darral, Byron, Gordon, stefman, Borrego Dave, Timber Wolf, floyd, Bob, Paul... everyone! You rock!


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Lady Darilyn

As Carol mentioned, the whole black white positive negative thing is a bit of an anomaly to non-RVrs so that was the majority of the issue.

Glad it helped - you have no idea as to how many times the battery on the Scamps are hooked up incorrectly causing all sorts of problems and people pulling all sorts of wiring apart trying to figure it out! We actually have had people rewire their trailers completely thinking the PO messed it all up!

Scamp sells little labels stating the correct wiring on their online store. I purchased one and put it on my battery box in case anyone messes with the battery in the future.